lotus54

Thanks for the ECU info. (I will verify this bike is the same). I get ~9Vdc constant on the injector plug (when not attached to injector), but will look to see that earth is working properly through ECU with o-scope today. ECU connectors look nice and clean, but I put a bit of ACF-50 in there just to keep it that way. Battery voltage (this model has a battery mounted below display, unlike later Explorers which have none) shows 11.5 V through diagnostics, but ~12 at the battery. This one runs the fuel pump for a bit when the key is turned on- nice feature. Owner reported bike was running just fine, then died - like the switch was turned off. (It will run a few seconds with a bit of prime, so appears to be fuel issue)

It is a lot slower in test mode- but you are correct an O-Scope is the way to do it. I will test with one. The injector works just fine if I power it up separately, great pattern and flow.

I am working on a 2012 Explorer in quite nice condition. The fuel injector is not working. I tested with battery power directly, it works great then down to about 6Vdc. Fuel pressure 50psi. When I run the injector test in the diagnostics, I can just hear injector click, but it does not open to squirt fuel. I tested voltage on with injector in place, doesn’t even move the meter. 9Vdc without injector. I suspect bad earth in the loom. I do not have a diagram for the early bikes (these have a battery from new). Ideas?

Yes, it is tricky figuring exactly twists and turns to get engine in. At least it is light (I weighed at 36 lbs - 16kg). That is one thing I did not like about the design, even though I never had to pull fuel pump or filter out in hundreds of hours, it is not easy. I always filtered the fuel- just in case. It would have been interesting to see engine installation done at the factory.

I’ve had two Explorers, currently have a very low hour one. I am not sure the port in the fuel tank is drilled on the TR. Easy mod- BUT you have to pull the engine so you can pull fuel pump etc.

Send me your email

I never had any overheating issues in my Explorer, I’ve tried several different maps. (But mine was not wired for two maps). A bit richer could help - also it is not very hot where I live. I installed an electric water pump on my old one when the original failed and could not source. It is still working very well for new owner. I did have to fabricate a mount and guard. For gearbox oil level. What I was told, originally bikes had 350cc. Many were having 6th gear issues- but nobody in Italy was. The importers there were putting in 450cc instead and that solved it. Later bikes had the breather relocated- but I still have to extend the hose. The importers here would run it up over the frame, then down to over the chain. So if any excess came out it would lube chain rather then just make a mess. That is what I was told

You may have to spend some time making sure you have the correct port selected in the software. First you need to find the out in the device manager, then select that port in the KScan Edited- sorry, I did that on the phone and did not noticed all the typos. Fixed.

SENT You also need the cable.

I certainly still have it. I will email link (and clean out my inbox)

send me your email and I will send a link. Mark

From two I have owned, here is what I conclude. the Euro VIN sequence is not followed. the 10 character in the VIN for the Explorer at least. C= 2014 E- 2015 Engine numbers: 13 = 14 model year 14= 15 model year. I am 100% certain the 2014 I had was a 14 model, one of the very first in the States (maybe first Explorer sold). The 2015 I am pretty sure is right, and the numbers are ‘one later’ than the 14. Certianly the 14 was made in 13 (I got it in October) and likely the 15 was made in 14.

Thanks for the great info! I did not know there were solid shafts. This is a 15 and I will check, but probably has that. Since it is a sealed bearing- I will inspect again and may just leave it in place. I assume to remove clutch nut on this model you install the M5 screw to push against the end of the shaft, rather than jamming a torx tip in like the older ones?

2015 Explorer I need to replace the clutch fixer shaft and bearing. I removed circlip and I assume after heating the case, it should just tap out- bearing and shaft? It did not come out easily tapping from other side, so thought I would ask before trying again, perhaps with a slide hammer.

Yes, that is it. I made a typo on post (fixed) 0-10

Adrian told me to only use Maxima extra4. 0-10

I bought a 14 new. Still one of my all time favorite bikes. I put a ton of hours on it, at 300+ the cylinder/piston looked like new. I did sell it, since I wanted to try out an EM with clutch. But since sold that (range was just too short) and picked up a 15 Explorer with 17 hours on it. I sold most of my spares with the 14 (darn it) but still have a few things.

Considering EM’s past range estimates, I guess real world range will be about 30km

You should have it now ( I think).

Did I send it to you? Or did I forget.

I have it, pm me your email and i will send.

If I recall, changing washer/seal size can assure correct positioning.

I cannot remember. I think they are straight and need a copper or copper/rubber washer/seal.

I would take it nice and slow, turn in a bit, back out and back in. Just like threading. Or run a tap in first to make sure threads are clean.

I worked really hard to get it as close to 0.6 as I can, with idle set to stock (I think 1400?). I had a BTWICE throttle body with a bypass screw, so I could change idle speed without messing everything up (although I never did)