lotus54

I think the 2012 has a four pin vrs 6 pin connector? If so, I have not done one and cannot remember how to address that.

I do not have a modern OSSA right now, but I think I did use that sparking plug. I found it difficult to start/smooth idle if I needed to reset TPS. I also fit my ‘super easy start’ setup (do a search) which powered up everything. For me, it worked much better than the factory ‘easy start’- with additional bonus of easy priming if running out of fuel and easy trailside troubleshooting. Much, much easier to start- almost always one kick.

Yes, I power up with a tiny Li battery. The best way to set the TPS (well, that is true for me anyway). I found I had to adjust/reset TPS about every 100 hours.

I did that on my 2014 that I bought new. I used a momentary button, held it down when starting using a tiny LiPo battery. Fuel pump with run/prime and bike always started really easily. I had a thread here called ‘Super Easy Start’ if I recall. It was a long time ago

Lewisport in the States had a jig to replace parts on those gearboxes and had quite a lot of spares. I would check with them and see what they still have

make sure to use the software version and maps for the older ECU- there are two different ones. The newer ECU/software allows a base fuel mixture trim, I found it makes a noticeable difference and could be something to try. Did you check with Lewisport for the fuel level sensor? I know they still have quite a few parts and something like that is likely to be a very low demand and may still have. A phone call works best.

I have seen some serial to USB adapters fail with this sort of thing. The most reliable one I had also had a driver not updated for newer OS. An Integrated Servo I am using for my electronic lead screw- would not work with the serial/USB, even though the computer would ‘see’ it. I bought one from the servo company and it worked fine. Some laptops have a docking station that has a real serial port, or a desktop. Those would be the most reliable. But also having to find more stuff

Are you using a ‘regular’ serial interface, or a fabricated USB one? I”ve used the factory serial, they work quite reliably. I have also made USB ones and had pretty good luck with them along with one the BTWICE made. But only on the older machines.

I have only used Win 7 and XP. Sounds like some timing issues with the USB. I have seen that before with various equipment. Any chance you have a Win 7 machine or HD you could test?

What version of Windows are you using?

Are you looking for the drum, or the shaft?

Email me and I will send the link.

I do not have any spare leads. PM me your email and I will send a link. Glad to help.

Sent link. I am happy to share what I have for the bikes. I’ve made a few of the diagnostic cables, but I don’t have a bike here to test, so do not want to make more. I do still work on them from time to time, so want to keep the cable. Plus the Explorer was one of my favorite all time bikes. While there were a few things I would change (linkage was too light duty, but a swap to the Titanium ones solved that) but it was just so fun. Wish they still made them. Perhaps those things would have been addressed. The 2014 I had was a great bike.

I do still have a few OSSA parts new. I think disc brake, special gearbox bolts, suspension bushings a couple other things

sorry, I am not on here very much anymore so missed this. Did you find one? Someplace I have the number of the injector. also, for a genuine one https://trialstribulations.co.uk/products/ossa-fuel-injector?_pos=2&_psq=ossa+injector&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I just messaged you the links. for the 2010, you will want to use the older software. of course you need the older style interface also. I've made some in the past and I think the instructions are on here someplace?

I just saw this. Did you get the gearbox solved? Lewisport is still rebuilding them last I knew a couple months ago. Talk to Adrian. I think I have a new shift drum

I sent link, but has not been downloaded yet

Sorry, missed this. I will try to email shortly

On my 2021 Escape ‘R’, the most I’ve ever gotten is 3 hours actual motor running time. 20 miles or so. the battery is certainly bigger than the epure, but rest of bike is the same (although heavier). Nowhere near what EM claims.

I sent a message, I have software. The cable information is on this site, I’ve made a few.

I commonly got the chassis relay fault on my Explorer- never seemed to affect anything. Make sure you do not touch the throttle when starting- take the slack out of starter and a good strong kick. With a 12V battery hooked up with a momentary switch- holding down the switch while kicking started first kick every time warm, 1 or 2 cold. I also ran one step hotter sparking plug, since the factory one was too cold.

The FRB is a ‘Normally Open’ switch/button. I suppose it could somehow fail close- but I don’t think very likely. More likely would be wires getting chaffed due to improper routing/covers and shorting across- activating the FRB. I use a very high quality switch (not the EM one) and it has been flawless. Another great feature is if you have to stop on a really steep hill (either someone stopped ahead, tree down or just mess up) pressing the FRB with also work in reverse. So it acts like a rear brake- pretty effectively at a stop. I have it located such that is it highly unlikely I would ever hit the button unless I want to. (I never have yet)- it will immediately ‘turn off’ the power and start the regen. If you hit it by accident with throttle on- then take finger off button, it will immediately give what ever power the throttle is set to. THAT could be an eye opener. But I’ve only done that when fooling around to see how the button reacts and how the bike responds. I don’t do competitions any more, but I would still use the FRB on a steep downhill, since I can then put my feet where I want, hold the button down for excellent ‘braking’ and just feed in more front brake if needed, or slip the clutch if I want a bit less.

I really like the button under bar I’ve been using. If I want less regen, I can just slip the clutch a bit while holding in the button. With the location- that is pretty easy to use.