lotus54

I’ve made a few of them, but I don't have a bike to test cable with anymore, so I don't really want to make more

i sent a link for the software. You will need a cable also

Tyre pressure certainly makes a difference. If I have it pumped up to ‘road’ pressure (12psi) the stand works ok. But at trail/trial pressure (3-4psi) it is awful.

I agree- it should be offered as an option for the older bikes. Assuming it is just programming of course, which it certainly seems to be. I think it could be nice in a trial competition, but just wasting energy for trails. I like using the FRB a lot and it is quite ‘jerky’ if you use the FRB with any throttle opening at all. (Pressing the FRB with throttle open will immediatly shut off engine and go to regen, regardless of throttle position. And letting it off with throttle open causes it to immediately go to that opening, not smooth at all.) I have no idea how they implement the ‘traction control’ so it could need more components? And perhaps the hardware is different on the newer bikes that have it? I am just speculating since I have not even seen a 2022.

This is the one I use http://www.pmrcomponents.com/pmrweb_010.htm Mounts under bar, I can just slightly move my thumb to activate. I keep forefinger on the clutch all the time and can even slip it a bit when the FRB is activated if I want less.

Mine is too long also. Bike fell over in the garage and I also have to look for a low spot for stand.` I was considering just taking a bit off the foot- I think it is pretty thick?

The FRB works really well. I think it is more than engine braking on my old Beta 300 4T- I almost never use the rear brake anymore. I found a very nice waterproof button and mounts under the bar. So I can just move my thumb a bit and press it, no need to unwrap thumb. http://www.pmrcomponents.com/pmrweb_010.htm

Sent

I run it on win7, so I suspect it will work on 10. You do have to have driver for whatever interface you are using of cousre.

I would not think the TPS would be goofed up- BUT make absolutely certain the throttle is closing all the way. If open a bit- it can be a bugger to start.

I just jacked up the left side a the bike a bit so when I pulled the plug- all the oil just went down the skid plate and out. Just a paper towel to clean up and not big deal. Mine looked very clean at 40 hours, just a tiny bit of ‘fluff’ on the magnet. I did use the recommended oil, mostly since I like the way it works now and sometime a change can make it a bit different. Plus it wasn’t that much more anyway

I do not hold the kill button down, but the momentary switch I installed that powered 12V to the diagnostics connector. For me- both bikes I installed it on started a LOT better, especially when I’m tired and not in a good kicking location. The other things I liked about that modification- if the bike runs out of fuel, a simple button push with prime it. Vrs a ton of kicking (at least in my experience). Plus it works great for diagnostics out on the trail if it is won’t start/quits running. The button push verifies the fuel pump is working (at least). On my bikes, the little AAA battery would not really charge back up properly and I would take them out every so often to give a proper charge. But after the ‘super easy start’ mod I no longer did that. on the early Explorers, turning on the keyswitch would power up the fuel pump and you could hear it running. One I worked on would start very well- once I set everything else up properly.

I hold the momentary button (on my modified setup) down as I am kicking. Then release. This has always worked for me. I believe the ECU is also energized by applying voltage to the proper diagnostics connector. These are the same connectors used when using the diagnostics software- and it cannot read it unless it is powered up. I find that the bikes are very easy to start- BUT you really need to have the TPS (throttle position sensor) and idle set as the manual says. Plus do not touch the throttle when starting. I also ran a little ‘hotter’ sparking plug in both my bikes- I was very careful to watch them and the stock ones just ran too cold. That seemed to make the bike harder to start as the sparking plug aged a bit.

If that link doesn’t work- PM me and I will get it to you

I’m 99% certain the engine has to come out to service fuel filter/fuel pump. I’ve done it, although awhile ago also. The packaging is nice that way, but makes it a pain when a simple filter change. I always filtered the fuel on the bikes- just to make sure fuel was a clean as possible. I use a fibreglass brush made just for cleaning connectors. I have not heard of any coil/stator problems at all on these, although both can rear their heads at higher temps. Another thing to check- how much current is the fan drawing? Perhaps if way too much it could cause problems. best way to find out is connect diagnostics software and test everything when up to temp.

Still having lots of fun on the Escape R. With the cold weather, range is less than I was hoping. But I will see when it warms up. It is a LOT better if everyrthing is slow trials or trial type stuff (1-5mph). Any road riding, even under 20mph seems to really lower the battery fast. the FRB (fixed regenerative braking) does seem to help and make a really good ‘thumb’ rear brake. Very effective.

Another nice 2-Escape ‘R’ ride yesterday. It is pretty fun having two electric bikes, so quiet. Did about 13 miles (mostly very tight singletrack) lots of elevation changes and 2.5 hours of actual riding time. High 30º f (~ 3.5C) The batter indicator claimed about 50% charge at the end. I suspect we could not have done the same ride again on the charge. It appears riding on the road, even under 20mph draws the power pretty quickly. Tomorrow I should have the license plate, so I’ll have to try a little ride on just road (with tyres pumped up) and see how it does. (Still waiting on replacement display, so will have to use GPS for distance/speed)

The the pump not yet mounted up or clamps on yet.

Yes, I think it is the same pump Vertigo uses. The pump works well and seemed to fit in this spot with a guard. Not many places to put it- and I’ve never seen one done. For the upper hose, I used one off a KTM that was connected to ‘splitter’. Fit quite well. I originally was going to mount it inverted, but it seemed to pump way better this way.

Here are the ones was told about and used. Worked great

Oh- I was not clear. I see on the electric pump the direction. I was just not certain of the factory OSSA pump direction of flow. From a test, I’m pretty sure it is also centre to out, meaning down the radiator, up cylinder, out head to top of radiator.

Thank you. That makes sense, and I also just checked by spinning the pump- verified. thanks

I extracted the info from my GPS on the first ride. total distance, 15 miles average speed: 5.5 MPH moving time: 2 hours 42 minutes 4,035 feet elevation gain and loss Much of it was very slow, tight trails, but also gravel road connections. the end was a quite steep road hill I started with 100%, ended with claimed 15% (I rather think that really meant not much further). EM says 10 cycles for full range and the cold could loose easily 20%. also no regeneration for this ride. I maybe could have gotten 3 hours if I did some more trail riding, add in more for warmer weather and regen- looks pretty decent. I have not taken it off for the second. (Hope to get up tomorrow too)

I’m working on fitting an electric pump to 2014 Explorer (mine in past, now sold). I’m not certainly which way the coolant flows in the OSSA original setup. Toward the top of the radiator? Or the other way?

I have one of the Xiu electric water pump kits I am planning on installing on my old (now sold) OSSA Explorer. It is getting coolant in the gearbox and blowing on one side and plugging other of the plump showed a leak internally. https://www.xiu-rdi.eu/comprar/36/kit-basico-de-bomba-de-agua-electrica.html Since it is not my bike, I would rather just install this pump. Especially since I had bought it when I owned the bike, and the pumps are readily avaliable. Plus any leak will be obvious and not into the gearbox. Has anyone installed one of these? If someone has, I would certainly like to see where you mounted and the hoses you used. I don’t see anyone that still has original pumps anymore. I would rather install something I know will not leak, since it is not mine anymore. He has already had more issues than I did the whole time I owned it. (Failed temp sensor, causing overheating, which I think caused blown head ‘O’ ring). thanks mark