lotus54

http://lewisportusa-com.3dcartstores.com/OSSA-TRIALS-FUEL-CAP-2011-2015_p_1459.html

Lewisport had a nice alloy one. I have one and it works really well. Darn stocker was a bugger

I’ve found the OSSA injection to work really well. But I also fit a tiny LiPo battery to fire up the fuel pump and wake it up. The factory Easy Start worked pretty well (if the rechargeable battery was replaced/recharged every so often)- but the one I fit also was a quick and dirty diagnostic too, plus if you run out of fuel it would prime it right away.

The software was freely shared by OSSA even when they were still active. (The owner says they are making e-bikes now, would Iike to start motorcycles again. But I’ll believe that when I see it).

Hello I sent link also- but then I saw you perhaps already have everything. I’m in the Northwest Corner of Washington State- USA (right across from Victoria, BC Canada)

I tried sending, but it appears that email is not good.

Send me your email and I’ll get it to you.

Looks great! My understanding is the biggest issue with the OSSA gearbox in general is if it has improper shimming. They are sort of time consuming to properly shim (so I understand, I’ve never done it).

That looks much like my 1970 Pioneer 4-speed did. The ‘scrambler’ tank was used on some, others used the larger fuel tank.

On mine, no black and white wire is connected (I didn’t notice one NOT connected anyplace, but I’ll look again). The black wire is in the centre connector, the yellow/green is next to it on the outer edge. I didn’t see any markings or anything. I believe it is just a ground to the kill circuit- but I could be mistaken. I’ll have to look to see where the yellow/green goes (I forgot about looking for it). Could be it is connected into the easy start?

I thought I posted a reply to this already- but now I dont’ See it. sorry for the delay (and all the dirt!)

I don’t know if the 2012 is the same as the 2014 for the switch wiring. But I’ll slog through the snow (very unusual here) and take a pic as soon as I can. (I would most certainly take Peter’s offer of wiring digrams)

Send me your email and I’ll set you up.

I’ve had to replace the crank seals on all my Vintage OSSAs. Easy to do (unless issues taking the primary drive off). I have a crankcase leak detector setup (Moton Pro I think) that makes finding air leaks really easy. Generally, it will smell noticeably different if it is burning gearbox oil.

For whatever reason on my bike- after 100 hours or so I found the TPS setting was no longer at spec. Perhaps the idle stop was worn a bit or something like that. But when I check it I can see it is no longer correct. It only takes a minute to set and at least for me, really makes a difference on the off-idle running. I’ve changed to the BTWICE throttle body, and the idle seems more stable and perhaps the TPS isn’t changing as much. But if I connect the computer, I’ll always check it and adjust if not perfect. It is so easy. I like to hook up to the bike every so often and it takes me awhile to get 100 running hours anyway. but that has just been my experience. I don’t ride the Factory enough to get lots of hours, but it is just as touchy on the correct TPS setting. Mark

The TPS is VERY sensitive! If not right, it will certainly use more fuel and mine are ‘blurbly’ just off idle. I find I need to reset them about every 100 hours. I use the 4 sparking plug also, the temperature is a better match for my use. I ride my Explorer mostly (although I have not ridden it for awhile) and trail ride most of the time. Rarely do I compete in an actual trial. All are too far away, and driving 5-7 hours to ride 2 hours doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. I get pretty good mileage when the TPS is correct. Mark

With my ‘super easy start’ (tiny 12V batter to activate fuel pump) it starts 1st kick when warm every time - IF I give it a good kick. when cold, 1 or 2. For me, it is picky on a good kick. My Beta 4T is completely different, it seems to like a slow ‘push through’ kick or it won’t start well at all.

Did you check with ‘Trails and Tribulations’ in GB? https://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28&products_id=2701&zenid=mf3gl1dknsbl0dn6c0kjmg8p37

I try to ride at least once a week. Usually I can do it all winter around here. Here was last week. The 4T has been working really well for me. No complaints, no problems. Just having fun! I know it looks goofy with the handguards and ‘elephant ears’. But my hands don’t get crushed and stay warmer. (Mt Baker in background)

I would also suggest moving the levers up more toward level. If they are too far down- you can’t reach them well when getting back over the rear. It is a little unusual at first to have them fairly level- but you get used to it.

Wow. I have a 2016 300 4T with probably close to 200+ hours. It is MUCH quieter. Take a look at the other thread- Billy showed a rocker that was very warn causing a very noisy top end. Mark

So you got all 6 bolts? Ha- just kidding, I now there are five. There is a circlip on the countershaft- no? I can’t remember. You may want to use a heat gun on the countershaft bearing area to help loosen? But no flame and not too hot. Mine has the fixer nut and once I got that off it came right out. (The original instructions didn’t mention that, so had me on the run a bit).

I have not had anyone say they couldn’t open the file from Dropbox so far. Did you get a link from me? It is too large to send via email and since I’m in the States putting it on a USB drive or something would be slow and a bit expensive. PM/Email me and we can try my link, or come up with another solution. Mark

It is a hardware addition. Very simple. A very small 12V LiPo battery is connected to a momentary switch. I choose to put it on the right handlebar, using a KTM style kill button. Installing it there means I take my hand off the throttle when pushing the button- so I don’t move the throttle when starting. That output from the switch is fed to the 12V + of the ECU connector. (- is connected all the time). So when the button is pushed, 12V is applied to the system, running the fuel pump for a second or two. At least for me, it makes for much easier starting (even better than the ‘easy start’) and also is a LOT easier if you run out of fuel. I posted a diagram here, I’ll find that and add the link. Mark

I cannot read Italian (except musical terms) so perhaps this was answered above. Yes, the TPS is VERY sensitive and critical to have as correct as possible. I find I need to reset it about every 100 hours to keep the bike running properly. You must have the software and cable to set it.