lotus54

PM me and I can get you the software. I have the parts to make two more cables- but I have not gotten around to it. I’ll try to get on it and make sure they work etc. Mark

My 2016 300 had the plastic cap (I bought it used). It worked, but just barely. I ditched it and bought the billet one for too much $$. But IT works great, easy to put on and off, I used a breather hose from the chainsaw shop (small hose).

In general, email isn’t very useful to Lewisport. I find I need to call.

Good to hear that worked. someone was building alloy OSSA Phantom tanks awhile ago. But I can’t find it anymore. If anyone knows a source please let me know.

I recall the 5 speed crankcase is wider and the engine mounts are different. I certainly could be wrong- but I dont’ Think you can just put a four speed engine into a five speed frame without some changes. I’ve never seen a ‘Plonker’ but did have a four speed Stiletto and a four speed Pioneer. Mark

I have two modern OSSAs- great bikes. As mentioned, some parts will start to be hard to find- many are standard trials stuff or GasGas parts fit (like the piston). I have a 15 300 Factory, the original owner sold it because he was new to trials and it just had too much power and snap. I fit a slow throttle, larger countershaft sprocket and usual run on the ‘rain’ setting. That calmed it down considerably, but it still has a LOAD of power and very light. I like them a lot, especially my Explorer. But I picked up a Beta 300 4T to use a bunch so I don’t get so many hours on the OSSA, I want to keep using it. Mark

Good idea to replace if it started making noise. If the fan fails it will overheat quite quickly. And riding doesn’t help- since almost no air goes through without the fan. I missed your first post, but sounds like you figured it out easily. mark

Would he make more?

I re-read your original post and missed the ‘novice to intermediate level’. Do you mean trails that are similar to a novice or intermediate trials section? or just novice/intermediate trails (if you know what I mean). On the easy trails, it may get a bit tiring standing all the time and at least for me- I riding on the seat very much is not easy. I also put bar risers on mine, because when standing, it would hurt my kneck after several hours of riding (and standing 99%) of the time. If you want to sit and ride it...well I would highly suggest a much taller seat than the factory long range tank/seat. Even then I personally dont’ Like riding it sitting much at all. My OSSA Explorer has an excellent seat- but even that is hard to steer compared to standing. Does that make sense? If you were closer you would be more than welcome to come try my Beta and see how it would work for you. Mark (I’m right across the Straits from Victoria, BC)

I’d contact Kieth Lynas at OSSA Planet. http://www.ossaplanet.com/ Make sure you carefully shim everything when reassembling. They are picky about that.

I’ve been using trials bikes for trails for a number of years. My OSSA Explorer is the best I’ve ridden for that- but I’m not riding it as much since no longer available and I dont’ Want to put a ton of hours on it. Currently I’m riding a Beta 300 4T with the long range tank/seat. The 4 stroke gets great fuel economy, super easy to start (as long as you don’t kick it hard or fast) and very similar engine response to the 2T. Except for the engine braking- wich I quite like on the steep descents. I can barely ride it sitting down- the only time I use the seat is on gravel road sections or in something with a ton of brush (so I can’t see obstacles) or something where I have to ‘paddle’ (low limbs with gnarly terrain combined). I find the trials tyres work great in almost all cases- deep, loose gravel isnt’ very fun (but not too great with knobbies either) and if the skid plate isn’t hitting, it does well in the deep mud. I run around 3-4 psi rear and maybe 5 psi front. Same on all my off-road bikes. My AJP ‘Ultrapasser’ came with trials tyres F/R, once I ditched the Pirelli on the rear and installed the ‘Tubliss’ system so I can run super low pressures- it works great. But I ran a front/rear trials tyres on my KTM 300 also. I would consider the 4T for trail riding- it is a bit heavier, but still pretty light for a trail bike. One part I don’t like, is the low air filter. Deeper water crossing can be an issue. The OSSA has a very high air filter- right behind the headstock. So it has much more depth and also stays a LOT cleaner. But that is the nature of the beast. I’ve put almost 100 hours on the Beta since I got it- I very rarely ride a trials event (too far away from where I live, I did one last year) but great for tight single track. Still works well for smoother two-track, but not very fun trying to go quickly on rough stuff. Mark

I’ve found I need to adjust and reset the TPS about every 100 hours to keep it in top running form.

Lots are parts are ‘standard’ trials stuff- but certainly some stuff will get hard to find. Setting injection, checking and trouble (not really many ‘codes’) is easy (like mentioned, software and now cables are readily avlailiable). I have both and find (at least mine) likes to have the TPS reset about every 100 hours. I have almost 400 hours on my Explorer (also have a low hour factory 300) and is my favorite bike. But I want to be able to keep riding it so I bought a Beta 4T I can ride also and put less hours on the OSSA. The Beta is actually very similar to ride as the OSSA, nice smooth engine, weight about the same as the Explorer (much more than the factory). OSSA might have a bit better balance, but I’m just an intermediate trials rider (although I’ve been riding 50 years) and perhaps have no clue what I’m talking about. I would suggest a 2014 or newer, some big improvements were made. Still claims by the owner to try and start production again, but at this point I doubt it. Unless someone comes along and just starts it up with loads of money to do it right. Probably would need to be a big company like KTM that wants to build trials bikes and doesn’t. Seems unlikely to me. There is certainly a LOT of things it has I like more than any other current bike out there. The air filter location is one (way up high by the steering stem- stays really clean and doesn’t fill with water), radiator location (stays clean of mud etc and very protected), exhaust (tucked out of the way from damage), cassette gearbox (service is really easy if required), FI into the crankcase/transfer port (better fuel ecomomy and runs super clean) oh well. Lots of great bikes out there.

I've mentioned it before- but I've made a mod that make the OSSA very easy to start. A small LiPo battery that is only triggered when you hold down a 'kill button' style switch. they 'wakes up' the ECU and also runs the fuel pump. really makes a difference.

PM me with your email and I’ll set you up. mark

They look great! I like the new fuel venting setup. After the ‘claims’ by the advertising people, is there really any difference in engine braking on the 4T? Mark

After warm up, my 4T will start just find in gear with the clutch pulled in (all the way). It does not drag at all when all the way in. Normally I use one finger on the clutch and can’t pull it quite all the way in (hits my other fingers, even when slide in as far as possible), but no issue when riding at all like that. It will even start ok that way, but seems better all the way to the bar. For me, it starts really well- as long as I don’t kick it hard or fast. A gentle prod and it fires right up. I usually stand beside it, since that discourages a fast kick. mark

I have Billy’s old 300T. I use the same oil he used- the only time I have any issue at all is when initial cold start. Unless I let it idle and warm up quite some time- the clutch is sometimes ‘stuck’ and I have to ride with it pulled in and brakes on a bit to unstick it. I attribute it to the much colder weather than what he has- a lighter oil could solve it, but it works so well the rest of the time I just keep using the same stuff. It only does it after parked overnight or longer. Not a big deal to me. Mark

I’ve used special fiberglass brushes to clean the pins. If you had the factory cable- using the software you can activate the fan. That will show if the rest of the wiring is good or not. Then read the temperature. These will overheat pretty darn quickly with no fan, even with everything else in good working order. At least in my experience. Darn minimal airflow without it. Mark

When I had a small amount come out of the ‘drip hole’ I looked into replacing the water pump. (The drip has not happened again, so I have not replaced it yet). the manual says to replace it at some 60 hours, but I assume that is under extreme competition use and I doubt any ‘normal’ user does maintainence at those recommended intervals. I believe the best way is to remove the radiator and side supports, remove skid plate and all but the rear engine mount, remove exhaust. Loosen carb jubilee clamp and tilt the engine down. Then you can remove the top head cover and have access to the gear that drive the water pump. Do you have the service manual? mark

The OKO I fitted to my Explorer from Mid-Atlantic trials worked great.

LIke mentioned, I find mine starts much better with a very mild, slow kick. If I kick it like my OSSAs then it doen’t Like to start. I do find it is better with the hot start, not throttle, slow kick. If that doesn’t work, full throttle and a couple of hard kicks seems to do the job. Mostly if I have any issue it is due to kicking to hard. (So it seems to me anyway). Note I have a 16 factory model, the ‘high low’ power switch has been removed, so no idea if it does anything. I was told it doesn’t do much until high rpm. Mark

Yes, a good point. I try to clean everything pretty well after every ride. But I’ll give extra care., It has been quite muddy lately and the routes (I hesitate to call them trails) go though some swampy areas that get pretty mucky. mark

I’d suggest the easy things first. 1. Choke off 2. Air box doesn’t have a rag or something left in it 3. Replace sparking plug (perhaps the easiest?) It could be just a bad electrical connection, or poor earth connection on the coil.

Any part numbers would be very appreciated.