baldilocks

Great I have just the bike for you 250 pro May 06 V tidy !!

I now have my fourth Gas Gas Pro. what annoys me more than anything is people advising others to split the airbox and apply silicone to the joints. I did it on the first two and it makes hardly any difference. The muck / water / whatever else is getting in through the air intake, through the inspection cover, through the hole in the base and through the bolt hole for the rear mudguard. Some may also get in the joints if you dont silicone them but as its going to get in everywhere else i dont see the point. Most of it comes in through the air intake as ; A its quite low B water runs down the joint between the tank and seat base C the vents in seat base are quite close to the intake Every trial I ride the filter box looks like a garden centre afterwards. We do have a lot of streams in my part of the world to be fair. However its very rare that anything gets through to the carb so dont worry about it. Buy good filter oil and clean the filter every time you ride. Also bear in mind that all the stuff in the filter box is still on the outside of the element. PS I absolutely love riding it

Oi keep it quiet ! its the first time i've rode it and we thought it was excellent (even though I accidently pressed the ejector seat button and sailed over the bars on one occaision). if you tell everyone it might get oversubscribed then we might miss out ! Thanks to Bill and everyone else involved

O level maths, add some things up , take some things away some people call it accountancy but I'm not trying to kid anyone !

Andy if you have some feeler gauges the maximum wear is 4 thou, (measured at the lower part of the barrel) any more and it needs a re bore. Scrape the carbon off the top of the piston anf it will be stamped .25, or .5 or .75. there are only 3 oversizes available so if its on .75 you can either get it converted to 270cc (ring Birketts) or get it re sleeved. You need to find somebody you know will do a good job for the rebore or you'll be no better off after its bored. You need to get it bored to 1 thou clearence of the piston and then run it in very carefully. try your local bike shops, if not Birkett is your man in my experience.

Given richmond has some of the best trials land in the country it makes you wonder why they went back, assuming they did of course

its original Cota Kid I'll give you that. I've stopped having a bath because I kept falling asleep in it, quick shower and then scoff some grub and drink a few gallons of water.

I think this depends what model year your talking about. A reliable source told me that on the 06 bikes the scorpa gas gas and sherco rear wheels are the same. in a round about way I can confirm this. I bought a sherco wheel second hand, fitted the Gas Gas spacers and it worked no problem. I then sold the gas gas with the sherco wheel in and the gas gas wheel went straight in the scorpa, again no problem. I can tell you that the mont wheel is different but you can get a GG wheel to work in a mont apparently by using a different spacer. However I dont think it will work the other way round as the mont wheel is bigger so you would need to change the hub.

This could go on for weeks 1990 As if the scott trial wasnt hard enough on my bike I realised between the 3rd and 4th check that I hadnt put any two stroke in the petrol, no wonder it was pinking........... 1986 At the ssdt back in the days of drum brakes I fitted a new back tyre but was running out of time. Quickly put the wheel in and went flying down the lane to the time control.... only i'd forgot to re connect the back brake and hit the caravan.. 1991 rode a trial at bootle before it was a national and managed to pass birks on the fells, first and last time. He was actually slowing down to avoid the bog I went cartwheeling into.. someone elses turn !!

Fork springs with the spacers are normally longer than the fork at full extension in my experience. Good way to try out if they are too hard is to put a zip tie round the stanchion tube, ride the bike and then you will know how close they get to full travel. Your forks should operate between 1 quarter and 3 quarters of travel in straightforward sections and only bottom out if you are travelling at speed or jump off somthing pretty big. your rear suspension should have about an inch to 2 inches of sag without you standing on it. bear in mind these are the settings I like but it gives you a start point. you should be able to adjust the spring length by turning the collars assuming the shock body is threaded.

lpd i'm puzzled. If the bush has been replaced surely the back end is higher so how does dropping the forks help ? that should make it worse ? You probably need to reduce the tension on the shock spring to get the ride height back to where it was with a worn bush or if the spring length is right then you just need time to adjust ?

The North East Centre has organised them before, Durham County has ran a few. No reason why the centre couldn't again. The new land Tweed Valley have would be ideal, suggest you kick this off sunday at Alwinton, I'll help you out if you want.

Eiger this is all from memory so it will pay you to talk to Birketts 01229 716806. But the 270 barrel will have had the base skimmed to make the the larger piston work. This is because the distance between the gudgeon pin and the top of the piston is about 2mm less on the TY 250 Twinshock piston (the twinshock piston had a bore of 70mm not 68mm) which was often the piston used. If the barrel has been skimmed and the correct piston used the timing should be ok but you may have to adjust carb. You should be able to check the barrel has been done correctly by taking the head back off and at the pistons lowest point the top of the piston should line up with the bottom of the exhaust port. At the top of the stroke the top of the piston at the outer edge should line up with the top of the barrel. The other thing to check is that the reed block didnt warp when it was cut and welded. This happend on my pinky but was fixed by fitting two gaskets. Just check its all square where the reed valve bolts on to the block.

The Raga Rep isnt usually released until April / May so I doubt there will be any info available as yet.

From what I have seen of trials in the USA on this site and talking to some americans at the SSDT I think the US terrain has more traction so you tend to have bigger obstacles. Loads of power is ok if theres loads of grip but no good for tight sections on slippy surfaces. Over here throttle control is key as you need just enough speed to get grip, to much speed / power and you overshoot the obstacle or spin the back wheel. just my thoughts anyway

Funnily enough I went from a 250 to a 300 a month ago. The 300 was like a rocket in comparison to start with but I find it ok now. I think i ride them both about the same, the extra power is useful at times as you can pull higher gears and actually ride slower. The down side is its more tiring to ride.

is the cooling fan cutting when its supposed to ? Trace all the wiring from the stator to the plug and check its not earthing somewhere, check the connections?. very unlikely but are the reed petals ok? quite unusual to get touble with a scorpa so itsa probably somthing daft.

Middle box is as per previous post, its easier to remove and re install if you warm it up a little first. Use a hot air paint stripper, it doesnt take much heat to make a difference. The clutch problem is most likely the wrong oil or it needs changing, what oil do you run ?

Dont forget the cable, I run wd40 or gt 85 down the cable once a month, disconnect from the carb end first. this makes the throttle feel lighter as well.

Anybody know why some people change the master cylinder and hose on the Pro. I've seen quite a few with the bigger master cylinder on with a larger diameter hose and i'm wondering if this would change the clutch action ? cheers

oh alright then I'll play your game Mr Serious Never owned a fourstroke let alone a 4rt but is it easier to tune up a 260 or de tune a 280 ? based on two strokes I would think it would be easier to calm down the 280 if it was too much for you. If you buy the 260 and its not enough you then have to buy the 280 anyway. there it is , a serious response . how about saving the money and grafting the 500cc kit onto it from your dads AJ ? oops I'm off again.......

Pro Truck or Fujiscott, who will spend first ? the suspense is killing me !!

I used PJ1 siver fire two stroke in mine at 65:1 and silkolene light gear oil in the gearbox. No problems with either. Scorpas are pretty bullet proof really just loctite the sprocket bolts, not much else comes loose. Its worth turning the HT coil upside down so that the plug lead runs up the frame tube rather than round the barrel (you'll need to extend the other lead with a connection ) , also zip tie the clutch hose so that its not touching the barrel. both of these mods are just to stop the barrel cooking the lead / hose when it gets relly hot. Apart from that clean the filter and carb every week as its easier to do in the garage than on a windy hillside and everything else should be fine.

thats not a bad idea mate, certainly worth a go if the terrain lends itself

I dont think the vast majority of people who started riding over the last ten years believe the people that rode before then but i'm going to say it anyway. My second trial age 11 was at a place called Rookhope in weardale. I was on a whitehawk ty80 and it was a centre trial with one route. I didnt get through many sections but I enjoyed it all the same. I've marked quite a few trials out in the past but I think the multi course idea is a pain nowadays. I've been criticised for making the easy course too hard before and i've told people that what they claim is too hard for them on a water cooled disc brake monoshock is actually an old section that my dad and his friends used to do on their bultos and montesas. I'm not saying either me or my dad were/are any good but that peoples expectations are different. everyone wants to feel like a superstar and finish on 20 marks so people stay on the easy or middle course rather than progress. the trouble I have with this is that its getting to the point in the North East were the hard course is considered last as it has the lowest number of entries. We therefore end up with lots of tight sections set out around the middle route. How does the sport progress if we scrap the top course ? I think getting back to one route over a period of time is the way forward well done richmond for having a go.