fantic240motor

I bought steel Falcon shocks for my 240 Fantic a couple years ago and they've been fine. The main selling point for me was the fact Falcon could rebuild them if needed. NJB may well be able to offer the same rebuild service but I couldn't find any mention of it on their site. Their "Ultimate" shocks look interesting.

Nice one! Ask the seller if he has a spare flywheel side casing as it looks like the one on the bike has been repaired after a derailed chain damaged it. Not a big deal as they do come up for sale but a good one won't be cheap. I'd try to work out what sort of final costs you'll have once finished. Parts soon add up and there's always unexpected extras.

I always enjoy observing. Done quite a lot of it lately waiting for a sprained wrist to repair and found myself looking forward to events nearly as much as when I was riding! Like you mentioned good fun and an ideal opportunity to watch how long and to what degree different riders look at a section. Also makes you appreciate the wide range of rider abilities and that at the end of the day it's all about having a fun day out. As far as tough decisions go I always mark slightly in the riders favour to keep things in the spirit of the day especially with the none stop rule but my decision is final and I expect riders to except it and carry on.

It is the pressed factory part number, it will also have FANTIC 450 and the circular FM logo above it. The actual individual seven digit frame number is stamped next to it with a star at each end.

Unfortunately 240 frames aren't the strongest and if ridden hard can suffer from cracking around the head stock area combined with the steering geometry splaying resulting in slower steering and a longer wheel base. A good used frame can be bought for around £150 so if the sellers price was right it could still be a good project for someone.

Personally I'd avoid it as you can find a nicer unmolested one easy enough. Removing the bottom rails is normally done to fit an air cooled mono engine as the flywheel side is deeper. Funny why this still having it's original engine. A head steady and a heavy duty sump plate is essential to prevent flexing.

The colour is related to the hardness of the alloy. If I remember right... yellow softest, red medium and green hardest.

The link has lots of good tips. It's well worth fettling drum brakes to get the best out of them but a common issue we now face is wear. If your drums have steps each side of the lining contact areas as well as heavy scoring getting them to work perfectly may be impossible.

Varifocal wearer too. I can ride trials wearing them but they're not ideal. I bought some cheap ready made distance glasses that have been great. I tried on various strengths until I found 1.25 were perfect. They sharpen the near and mid distance that helps me focus on the ground I'm about to tackle. I don't need to read while riding so don't miss the varifocal part. They only cost a fiver and have flexible metal arms that avoid putting pressure on my head so are comfy and less chance of breaking. I have just bought a second pair to wear on my road bike.

Looks like Delay in Spain to a nice clutch lightener. http://delaytrial.com/producto/alargo-leva-embrague-fantic/

No opinion on the seller but my advice is always view before you buy. If you can't travel or it's too far leave it and wait for a more local bike. I didn't about 3 years ago, it was a dealer with a nice website and it was a mistake. Funny when I think back now, we spoke on the phone and I was assured it was all in good order and ran nice. He even had his "mechanic" check it over! You live and learn... Dealers or private selling obviously want as much as they can for a bike, some will be more honest than others. Plus at the end of the day a used off road bike's value is subjective and so is a description like "runs well" or "needs tiding". You need to see it in person to decide for yourself.

No experience of any hydraulic conversions. Sounds like you've done everything to make your clutch sweet so a shame about the drag. I did have drag on the 240 but managed to adjust the push rod to eliminate it. I'm sure you've tried fine adjustment of the push rod. I use 5w-30w oil that's quite light. When I started riding about 3 years ago I would find the same problem you mention with my finger just giving up after an extended amount of use. I bought a hand strengthener (one of those sprung foam grip things) that helped. Over time exercising with it and riding every week I now can go all day without clutch finger fatigue. Funny I find my Section hydraulic clutch a little light and lacking the feel of the cable pulling... I don't miss the pulling weight though!

An arm that has been extended by welding in 2cm is better than a bolt on job like mine. As you can see it the bulky shape can restrict movement.

Here's the clutch cable route up between the exhaust and frame. It runs along the frame and comes out on the right hand side between the tank and headstock.

Here's the home made lightener. Excuse the dirt from today's trial. You can see the top piece has a slight bend to help the cable stay true with the longer arm. You could easily make the top piece and it would work with your extended arm. The bolt is countersunk to avoid contact with the arm.

Sounds like you have all there is. The tube goes between the bearings. If the speedo drive is the type I'm thinking of it can be taken apart. The spacer can be pressed out and used without the drive part for a neater look and less drag, that's if you don't want a working speedo of course. Some people just make a spacer for this side. However the spacing for your mix and match set up will no doubt be different so some fabrication with a lathe may be needed. Even the centre tube may be a different length. The inside measurement of your forks might be different than the up side down forks and the 6302 bearing are 2mm wider. I'd mock up the wheel before buying bearings. If it looks like the brake will line up and there's no issues then all good, buy the bearings and work out dimensions. It may well slot in with virtually no messing about you never know!

Well done! The stand looks really good. You could put a slight bend in the leg tucking it up a little out of the way, save moving the spring. I use the same EBC brake pads in all my Fantic disc brakes and have found them really good. Hope all goes well tomorrow. I'm out on the 240 at the South Midland Classic Trial. It's been raining a fair bit so we'll have some mud to keep things interesting!

I have a Shedworks lightener on my 307 and a home made one on my 240. Both work very well and do the same job. It would be difficult to recreate the Shedworks one. I'll take some pictures on the home made one. Obviously it's important the clutch plates and basket are in good condition. A clutch lightener will make a temperamental clutch worse. I like the original Domino levers and a nylon lined cable.

Your 245 should have 6202 bearings measuring 15x35x11 (15mm spindle) The 305 is the same. If you have an orange hub that takes 42mm bearings it's for the later 7 series model with up side down forks. They take 6004 bearings measuring 20x42x12 (20mm spindle). There is a bearing 6302 15x42x13 that'd probably work okay. If you can mock up the wheel in place to check the disc lines up okay with the caliper it would be easy enough to adjust the spacers to fit. Worth a try.

Rear wheel. Sprocket side takes a single bearing size is 17x40x12 number 6203. Brake side takes two smaller 17x35x10 6003 bearings. Front wheel takes two 15x35x11 number 6202.

I had same problems with my 309, similar air leak type symptoms. Tried everything cleaning carb and checking inlet was sealed, reed valve etc couldn't find a leek. I even rebuilt the engine convinced the crank seals were letting air in as it ran lovely before sudden issues arose. Tried after rebuild and it ran the same! Bought a new carburetor that solved it. I never mess with 20+ year old carbs once they start playing up. Lucky my Section runs perfect (touch wood!) but it'll be in the old carb pile with a new one purchased if it starts messing about.

Think your section is a 1996 not a 1997 as it has a steel frame. Not a big deal as most parts are the same. Also is that a mastic repair on the top of the rubber inlet manifold? If it is cracked I'd replace it before starting once you've fixed the clutch. An engine running at full chat due to an air leek is almost impossible to kill before the inevitable seizure.

They won't need any special bedding in. Just use as normal and they'll settle in quickly.

As I said in your other thread concerning the carburetor. No reason why it wouldn't run fine on a similar carb from a same size trials bike so good to hear that. Nice to get some positive feedback from those other riders.

Stand down pictures as requested. The fixing bolt doubles as the spring anchor and doesn't move.