fantic240motor

The reed valve body is the metal piece between the inlet rubber and the cylinder. Worth having a look to check the condition of the petals.

Your power valve may be stuck if you haven't checked it. I thought mine must be stuck as I couldn't notice any increase in power when I was riding so I checked it and to my surprise it was fine! Here's how I checked mine was working. I took the cover off drive on the crankcase and disconnected the cable. I had to take the exhaust off to get at the cover then put the exhaust back on to run the engine. You can see the arm move when the revs increase. I could feel the cable pull open the valve and hear the spring move when I gave the inner a tug. Later when I took the head off I could squirt lubricant and compressed air through the holes in cylinder wall as I pulled the cable by hand to open the valve so all good in there too. The valve doesn't appear make any big difference that I notice, certainly no surge of power that some people think happens. The engine is actually smooth and not harsh at all. Slow running issues could also be carb, reed valve or plug etc but I'm sure you've tried all those things. The footrest brackets are steel, the main brackets they bolt to are alloy.

The bracket upright needed to be trimmed to help the footpeg lift up. I haven't had a chance to test them out yet but the position and extra width feels nice and stable.

The spring is a standard Fantic item. I swapped the bigger one the stand came with for the Fantic item to avoid my heel catching it when descending. I did look at trying to mount the spring under the stand out of the way and it would be possible with a little welding. I was going to make a mount as I have a stand leg but this was much easier. The pegs are S3 Hardrock Steel type with the extra rear set. They bolted up to the stock mounts. I just needed to cut slight relief in the mount to allow the peg to flip up. I'll snap a picture. https://bvm-moto.co.uk/Trials%20Parts%20Clothing%20and%20Accessories%20/Footrests%20and%20Hangers?product_id=3027

Here it is fitted. I couldn't find and original so this has been a cheap simple answer. I used the fixing bolt to hold the spring.

I fitted this universal side stand to my Section... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-FITTING-STEEL-SIDE-STAND-FOLDING-MOTOCROSS-ENDURO-MOTORCYCLE-MOTO-/322092152560?hash=item4afe3036f0:g:RckAAOSw~OdVbcmC Needed to shape the bracket to fit in the recess. I fitted an original stand spring as it was smaller. The one supplied kept catching my boot heel when riding.

Guessing it's a rear kick 200 you have. I'm pretty sure it's the position of the swing arm pivot that's the main issue. If I remember right ClassicTrial in Eastleigh did a similar conversion but can't see anything on their website about it now. You could give them a call and ask... If it's a forward kick 200 Pro frame then only the usual "mono engine in a 240 frame" mods will be needed.

I asked elsewhere and received that answer. Didn't know when the length when I asked in the original post

It is a cardinal sin to paint a 240 frame any colour other than RED! I am something of a traditionalist and like them as original looking as possible, joking aside no one will care what colour you paint it just as long as you like it.

Yep that's a 240 Fantic alright. Does it have FM450 and 212cc stamped on the upper right engine casing? For parts try... Bob Wright 01934 510333 Bill Pye 01642 722378 Richard Allen (used parts) 07917 406313 https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product-category/parts/twinshock/fantic/ http://www.bosisiomotori.it/home/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=204&Itemid=222These guys hold some useful parts but you will need to send payment via your bank. No big deal they're easy to deal with just an extra £10 for the transaction. Ebay is always worth a search. Good it has compression and selects gears. Try cleaning the carb, some 2 stroke mix fuel and a new plug. It'll probably run! Careful not to suck and dirt in until you find an air filter. They are a competitive fun trials bike. I own one myself, hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine. Good luck!

Thanks believe it is 305mm center to center of the mounting holes. The mounting holes are 10mm.

Can anyone please tell me the length of a 1996 Fantic Section rear shock? Many thanks

305 would have the right way up 35mm Marzocchi forks. 307, 309 and K-Roo had USD forks. Your video on servicing USD Marzocchi forks is excellent Jim, I have a 309 with them and it has been very helpful.

My most recent Fantic purchase is a '96 Section.

Looks like a 301 in good usable condition. You say it has a weak spark, I'd start with the usual things that I'm sure you have like plug, cap connections etc. If no good then a new HT coil is well worth the money. I'd buy one from Steve Goode as his come with instructions and he's given me some helpful after sales help in the past. Here's a link to his ebay shop but you can find these HT coils elsewhere... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FANTIC-HT-COIL-300-303-TRIALS-NEW-ZEM-IGNITION-NON-MOTOPLAT-/151909437421?hash=item235e820fed:g:csEAAOxybLpRg2YZ After that the problem will no doubt be under the flywheel cover. As for a carburetor I'd personally go for a new inlet rubber and give the carb a good clean. If it still gives trouble I'd replace it with a new carb available from Dellorto.

I like them but I like everything Fantic! If it's a good deal then go for it.

You could align the rear wheel with the front by using two straight edges. It's an easy way to check both wheels are parallel to prevent it crabbing. Two rips of ply wood or MDF work well. Stand the bike upright with the tyres fulling inflated. Use some blocks to raise the straight edges off the ground a few inches then push one straight edge against the front and rear wheels on one side and then same the other on the other side. The front wheel will find it's straight ahead position between the two straight edges and the rear will show up if it's not straight ahead. You can then adjust the cams to find perfect alignment. Once the wheel is tight you can mark the cams with a sharp punch for future reference. As mentioned above good to visually check chain alignment. It must run dead true.

When you remake the brake rod to run past the inside of the shock I'm sure you'll bend it to run closer to the swing arm to avoid the likelihood of your heel leaning on it. Could be off putting when you're descending. Just another point I'd also flip the rear spindle adjusters over so the long part isn't hanging down avoiding unwanted contact with rocks etc.

Falcon do make a steel trials shock with an option to work upside down. Maybe your's could be modified by them and save some money? Worth a call... http://www.falconshockabsorbers.co.uk/

Oh sorry it has the metal lever that pivots on the side not the usual flip up plastic lever. My mistake. My 240 and 307 has the plastic flip up type and my 309 had the metal side pivoted type otherwise both carbs are identical. I thought it was only later bikes had the metal type.

If it has the Dellorto PHBH 26 it came with when new turn the small air screw in gently until it seats, don't tighten it! Then turn it out 2 turns. That'll be close enough to run okay. When the choke lever is vertical it's on, when it's horizontal it's off.

Pretty sure it's an M8 but I'd need to check to be 100%. You could possibly use a Helicoil or enlarge the thread a size. Both may get some swarf entering the engine. I have cleaned old oil from the inside of a 240 gearbox by flushing it with petrol, doing that could hopefully take care of any debris causing issues.

Yep unscrew the breather and fill it from there. Stand the bike up on level ground. There's a level hole with a screw to remove or handy window if you have a later bike.

I've been using the same Castrol 5W-30 in my Fantic 240 for near two years since I fitted a new clutch and haven't had any problems despite riding most weeks. I've also used it in my 125 Pro and 309 air cooled mono. Castrol may well state it's not suitable due to some additives but whatever is in it nothing causes issues as far as I've found.

Not particularly a big or difficult job depending on your mechanical ability. All the parts you'll need are a set of seals and new oil. Only special tools other than a vice with soft jaws or Black and Decker workmate is something to push the new seals down into the legs. If not a purpose made tool then an appropriate sized piece of plastic pipe can work okay. Getting the old seals out can be tricky and there's a sequence for undoing the internals to make life easy. It's a job most owners of trials bikes will have to do at some time.