fantic240motor

Find mine fine on trials with smallish hills and without too much mud. It won't pull third gear but has plenty to lug me up most stuff in first or second gear. I weigh about 13 stone so not an ideal jockey for a 125. Lots of people have commented how well it goes and love the ripping sound the exhaust makes. A great bike at the right event kind of sums it up.

I like 5W30 fully synthetic motor oil in all my Fantics but as mentioned everyone has their own favorite and seems most light oil or ATF works fine. Just don't use an EP hypoid gear oil.

I have a 125 Pro (forward kick) with a PHBL25BS jetted for a 240. Like you I built a 125 and had a new carb from a different Fantic and wanted to try to save buying another. I reduced the main jet only and it runs nice surprisingly enough. I can't remember what main I went for but I'm happy to pull it out and get back with size. I'm sure it was a 92 (down from from 98) but as your 200 carb is jetted different from 240 I doubt it'd help. Idle screw is out two turns so haven't tried a smaller idle jet. It doesn't four stroke or bog down and the plug has never fouled. It revs it's little hart out lugging me around and I've had some good rides on it hope you do the same.

Yes if the forks are apart changing the seals would be the way to go. The cleaning method with no disassembly takes a few minutes so can save a lot of work if the seals aren't damaged and are just leaking due to dirt allowing oil to pass the seal. Once the dirt is removed the seal can do it's job again. Anyhow hope you have the info about your seals steveswans2015.

Just a thought... have you tried cleaning the old seals? I was going to change some seals on a pair of forks that were leaking quite badly then when looking for info on how to to this I came across people talking about cleaning the existing seals. I slid the dust sweeper seal out the way and carefully ran a thin piece of plastic round the oil seals removing lots of grit and dirt. You can buy a purpose made tool for this or even a feeler gauge will do. Just keep it flat to the stanchion drawing upwards as you move round. I replaced the dust seals and to my surprise the seals stopped leaking. Still a tiny amount of oil visible when riding but nothing like before. Never knew about this simple DIY fix that saved me all that hassle.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil If the 240 cylinder needs relining it might be worth avoiding as the work can cost around £150. I bought a cylinder with piston as a spare some time ago but as I know have two other good ones I would consider selling if you're interested?

When I contacted HMRC they didn't seem to know anything about acquiring a NOVA reference for a trials bike as old as mine. Sounded like I either was speaking to a member of staff that wasn't familiar with this area or it isn't something they often get requested. I know this NOVA thing is fairly new but it didn't sound promising. They said fill in the form and we'll look into it. I feared the worst, either refusal or a VAT/duty bill to pay but a few weeks later back came a reference and I could get my V55/5 off. It's not like anyone doesn't want you to register your bike it's just not easy until you've worked out what hoops you have to jump through. I did try a few times to contact the dlvaadvive people via phone and email but no reply so that's when I started trying to do it myself. They were my first move when I wanted to reg my 240 as I know a friend of mine used them to register his Fantic 200 and they were excellent.

I managed to register my 1982 Fantic 240 and am just about to register my 1991 Fantic 309. I got the necessary notification of vehicle arrival (NOVA) numbers from HM Revenue and Customs. All you need is a form. I phoned them directly and asked for them to email it to me to print off. I have a copy of the email if you want me to send it to you? You can print it off if you have a colour printer and send it off. They will send you a copy on request if that easier. They'll turn your application round in a few weeks and with the NOVA number you can then send your V55/5 off again no problem.

Just about to buy some brake pads for my Fantic 309 and wondered if any of the many brands are better than others? Anyone got any favourite brands?

I did both my pairs myself using bolt on billet aluminium riser blocks for 7/8 bars. I cut the old mounts off and filed them clean. I had a friendly welder chap build up lugs in the underside web to take the bolts that hold the risers on. The M10 bolts were in the center of the risers and they came very close to the underside web so the lugs were essential. Other types of risers with different fixings may not need the lugs but I liked the fixing method and style of my ones. I'd recommend getting the bars forward whatever method you find works for you as it's a simple and effect modification.

Fantastic trial. Thanks a million to everyone who made it happen

What tooth front and rear sprockets do you run furse?

Nice one shazsfan. Excellent answer thanks a million. I did wonder about the extra flywheel weight as I'd heard the Mike Hann 200's had them added. I'll stick with the 125 item. I have a new PHBL 25 BS and a stock air box as well as a 240 exhaust and tail pipe. Cheers.

I have a 125 Pro FM237 forward kick for my next project and am considering sizing up the barrel and piston to a 200 when I go through the engine. I would love to hear from anyone who has done this first hand on either the Fantic or a Minarelli rear kick engine. What other than the barrel, piston and carb will need changing? Will the 125 flywheel be heavy enough? I haven't ridden a 125 yet and wonder if the 3hp increase is really worth it, especially if the 125 barrel is in good condition.

Personally I'd buy another stock Dellorto. I did the same with both my 240's, the old carbs were simply worn out and the inlet rubbers hard. I think there are two issues here that often get mixed up. Does the bike run okay on it's original set up or does it need improving? I'm happy with the stock Dellorto but if you think that it is in some way inadequate then go with the OKO.

I have a working horn now . Just in case anyone wants to know the brown wire is an earth and the orange is the live. Thanks again guys...

Correct blocky. I've just checked and there is a brown and an orange wire with a plastic plug connector on the end. I'll test these for a live feed.

My 240 has an electronic type CDI/Coil unit and I want to wire in a horn. Can anyone tell me what terminal I need to use. It's the aftermarket blue type one with this marked against each terminal BIANCO W ROSSO R VERDE G VERDE G Many thanks.

Just a point... wouldn't you want a chain guard anyhow? If you ride in muddy areas they keep a lot of crud off the chain. Not just prolonging the life of the chain and making it easier to clean but mud clogged in a chain can force it off the rear sprocket. A friend of mine had this problem on his trials bike. It had a chain guard fitted but it only covered the top of the chain leaving the bottom run to catch all the mud from the tyre. He extended the guard and it's kept it's chain on ever since.

I needed to do exactly the same last year. I got a V62 application form and filled it in with everything except the unknown reg number. Sent it off with a covering letter. Got a reply saying it wasn't registered. I doubted that to be honest as I was sure it was once registered but I guess they'd entered the chassis number in the computer and it came back with nothing so not much I could do but start the long winded application for a reg/V5C.

Some specifications here... http://www.fanticmotor.asso.fr/r02_f31.htm Use fully synthetic 2T oil. Most owners run a 70:1 mix without any problems but only with top spec fully synthetic oil. If you use anything else then 50:1. The carb is easy to work on. If it's worn then a direct replacement is often an economical answer as parts add up quick. Check the inlet rubber is sealing as they leak air. A good condition used tank might be favorite and a used front mudguard/fender would be a good idea. For fork seals and parts try http://www.r2wtrials.co.uk/html_files/bobwright.html or http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/index.html You've got a nice old Fantic there and well worth spending a little time and money getting it right.

Crazy situation with Carol Nash. I have insured my classic road bikes with them for nearly 20 years and can't remember them ever specifying where or what type of over night storage I use. I've always lived in London and for many years I had a wooden garden shed in my back garden and they never minded. Guess it's all changed. Have you tried this lot?... http://www.msminsurance.co.uk/personal-insurance/motor/motorcycle-trials-enduro

I presume you have the Betor type Sammy Miller steel shocks with black bodies? If so taking off the spring is very easy. Take the shock off the bike and clamp it in a vice upside down. Then pull down on the spring and the bottom collar will drop down. It has a slot in it that will let it come out past the damper rod. Handy if you have a friend to help but it is possible on your own. The spring will then slide off the end of the shock.

http://www.berkotrials.com/ We're not exactly on your door step but we do have a bike available for people to have a try out trials at our practice ground Nash Mills in Kings Langley. It's primarily help them decide if trials is for them before buying a bike. Maybe that would help you? We also run trials training days for members who own their own bikes if you get back into it.

If you are at an event in a section watch the other riders, see what they do and imitate it. As mentioned every situation requires different techniques but clutch in and brakes on is going to be the way on any steep decent as you'll have the rear brake on. Always good if the rear brake doesn't lock up but it often will. It'll slow more efficiently if it's not locked up skidding but this is a tricky technique to master especially on steep greasy drops. If you feel the rear is locked and starting to slew sideways release and reapply gently before you start to slide and risk the back end coming round on you. There's lots of trials riding technique videos on youtube. I really enjoy watching them and find them useful. Here's one with some descending tips...