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crazybond700

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Everything posted by crazybond700
 
 
  1. This kind of problems always open her up on the clutch side laying the bike down. While doing that also check the spring of the clutch for dirt and you might want to measure the fingerheight and thickness of the package (write it up somewhere).
  2. I notice training more helps a lot, 1 time every now and then keeps you on the same level, more times a week improves you. But it also matters how you train. Just ride about keeps you the same level, training specifics improves.
  3. I actually now get the hang of it. I think more weight on the back (in a lot of situations) helps my riding. Knees bend and to the sides, and weight back gives lot of grip.
  4. Riding a bike with good suspension for weight, and nicely setup bars etc can be a revelation.
  5. Is it a freeride xtrainer type of bike or? Probably a good video it makes you wonder and search about. Honda also did this heavily with the new african twin bike. (although maybe they dissapoint with the final product)
  6. There is deffinatly oil in there (or there should be). Servicing a shock is not that difficult although retrieving the parts might be. E.g for my cr250 I can just buy replacement parts easily and with some instruction(video's) its no hard job. Just stay calm, think and work clean. THe difficult part is normally setting it up right, what thichness oil? other shims? etc. And the difficulty with this shocks is that they are not really made to be opened and closed, but still than its possible. I have my TT600 shock done by a pro, he made a nipple in the shock to charge it with nitrogen, added a thicker shock and more rebound. Read carfully, spatshop will charge extra for a GG (sachs). And you need a new rod. I would look for a replacement. Simple ones are available here for around 280 euro's. Also I would try to find out why they bent like that, havent seen that before (except for you )
  7. There are always a few basics with trials bikes and gg in specific: - Free play at the master cylinder? +-3mm - Does it have enough lever? (there are two bolds to adjust. One for the free play, the other for the ''reach'' of the lever. This should have enough to be able to fully engange the clutch) - Thichness of the clutch plate pack should be around 9.75 to 9.85 thicher will be a problem! Adjust with seperate available steel plates - Fingerheight; the clutch finger height compared to the basket underneath the fingers should be around 17mm - Thickest fibre plate should go in first - Further more use correct oil and quantity. For GG pro around 380cc of 75w oil like putoline gear lite or ATF (not going to debate here about this) - Offcoarse any damage to seals or parts may/will cause difficulties in getting it right! Make sure you put the bike down for clutchwork, not for the oil, but in order to set it back together right!
  8. Nice shots, i dont like long shots because then videos tends to get boring so well done
  9. On the long run you are going to need those anyway, and that way you can always have a nice clutch, which is really one of the pro's of the pro, lol. (ok, its more work, but it can be awesome!)
  10. Both should be ok. (out of my head) fingerheight 17 +- 1 Pack 9,75 - 9,85 The problem most of the time is the pack which is/gets too thick (new kit too thick or swelling). The finger height gets lower due to this.
  11. Pics please yes! good job
  12. The friction plates differ in thickness
  13. I think communication is key here. As long as potential customers know the bike isnt available until date x, and that only prototypes exist. Maybe show what problems occure in producing a trials bike and how they solve this. However opening up your R&D like that is not something people/companies feel comfortable about.
  14. Im not sure about the head. What I do know that its best to let it on as much as possible. Just dissassamble the total head+cylinder when possible.
  15. Yeah, thats way too thick. Normally there are 2 types in one pack. One thicker one, and two the same. Thick one should go first.
  16. Gas Gas wont be a problem for the years comming. Still plenty of parts available now (bit biased I guess). But I think a sherco, scorpa or beta will do fine aswell. State is more important than brand. Putting two brand that dont even sell bikes yet in your top choise? Jotagas is difficult. I quess the bikes are quite good, but the whole picture (service, communication etc) is not there I think.
  17. And there are a lot of riders who can ride the **** out of me/''you'' with the same bike, and a very much worn tyre. So skills matter. It depents on what you want, if you are competitive etc. If you want the hobby to be as cheap as possible dont change them, if you want to win your sports than change more regularly.
  18. Most of the time its damage to clutch or idler gear/crank gear. Main bairings is almost only possible when there was a manufacturing problem or when its has taken in water. I am changing mine now, and think there is like 500 hours on them or so.
  19. Sounds like a broken wire, or bad connection somewhere. There are not a lot of wyres, and most of them are not important for running so should be quite easy to test. Without tank, with engine running, fiddle a bit with the wires.
  20. Cyl looks quite like the sherco/gasser so S3 seems logical yes. The proto typ had a gasser engine
  21. I think its new since Jotagas probably owns the right to that and TRS cannot copy that without permission. But the idea is prety much the same I guess
  22. Spain would propably win if they all swaped bikes, lol.
  23. Costs are not salary offcoarse but probably they do get a good treat. Also about prize money from fim or so. Competitors need to pay to enter (I quess the top could have dispensation from this but would that be fare?) At least European events need to pay to enter, next to having a licence and such
 
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