crazybond700

Airoh ttr is great for me, but like you say fitment is personal. Ventilation etc is way better than my old helmet was and fits me like a glove.

This topic is way too far gone. Put new grease in the headstock bearing, I had really good waterproof grease in it, saw no difference looked like new how it came out, however I noticed the stearing went a little bit stiffer so now try something more fluid. My back brake hose has come between the spring of the suspension and started leaking. Had some problems with the brake and could not find it at first. But slowely noticed fluid level dropping, and with dismounting noticed that the reservoir hose had a small leak. New hose and all sorted out now. Also put new lever on it, the original one was slightly bend, making it touching the bash plate (when the brake was still not bled correctly). Now works perfectly again!

The solution could be to take it to a welder and let it replace the bracket, but not really what you want when you buy a new part. I would contact estres with the pictures, they could learn something from it, and they might have advise or a future discount or something for you Only adapting the product yourself makes it difficult to send it back. It does look sweeet.

Noo, just let the slave sit where it is. Only make sure the hoses are not higher than the master cilinder. For the gearbox 5w30 is recommened, I personally dont have bad results with 10w40 which I always have available for other motorcycles.

The last picture shows the drain From underneath the bashplate. There is a lot of information, you need to search a bit for it though. But just ask, thats why we are here 5w30 is recommended, I dont have bad results with 10w40 (which I also use in my other non-trial bikes). For the Pro's I always use putoline light gearbox oil 75w.

To fill its right behind the kickstarter

Probably just keep bleeding it, it will work most of the time, but needs a little bit more patience than one would like to invest, lol. You could remove the master cilinder and put it up higher such that the brake hose is a straight line and the reservoir is definitly the highest point.

There is a alen screw on the left side of the bike. First warm it up a bit and remove the bold and let it dripple out. Than clean the bold put it back and fill her up again. +- 650cc of 5w30

Think I figured it out again. It should be going to the left underneath the carburator, and then down underneath the suspension and than to the right and towards the master cylinder.

Hello, Can someone look at the routing of the brake hose from reservoir of the back brake, to the master cylinder. Mine was down the swingarm, but the suspension killed the hose causing air to come into the system. I cant remember ever having it had loose with this bike, but I thaught it used to go above the swingarm.

There always should be some play in order to let new fluid in. Futhermore some glue clamps might help pushing them in. (use a piece of plastic or wood to protect your brake caliper.). First clean everything as good as possible otherwise you will push dirt in (also important when putting in new pads).

Neutral is almost always difficult with trial bikes (I dont really mis it). Smoking is normal to some extent. Probably goes away when its warmer. Also some oil will get stuck inside the exhaust system, in the frontpipe, middle mufler and end muffler, and when really hot some will burn out again. But well thats the beauty of a 2 stroke!

Put a cable around the brake lever and the bars for a night, might help! Also make sure the routing of the hose is as vertical as possible so airbubles can come out. And bleed the system again, bottom up with a serince. Next time dont remove the banjo but take the whole system off.

Maybe de estres cilinder kit is the same as the one honda uses? Its not uncommon for s3 to make cilinders for OEM.

Wheels turn so add ''more'' weight during riding. better to put it somewhere which is absorbed by the suspension, and central. So I would put some lead near the engine plate. Thats also what the pros would do.

Brilliant location, yelous!

Than I would recommend the 2001 above the other yes! Great bike for a beginner. very reliable. Plenty of parts available if you would need some.

Is it the pro or the edition? Sometimes the regulator burns and than damages the fan or the temp switch, which is inbetween the coolant lines.

Or buy yourself a bearing puller http://s259.photobucket.com/user/turbostang331/media/frontbearing/P1010010.jpg.html

I will be in Portugal and Spain in some weeks. Any tips on clubs or something near those cities?

My point is that the measurement itself does not say that much. It must feel good, with good grip and results. Than measure, and try to learn yourself a good fealing. and than you will have (hot) measurements to refer back to in similar conditions.

My point is that the measurement itself does not say that much. It must feel good, with good grip and results. Than measure, and try to learn yourself a good fealing. and than you will have (hot) measurements to refer back to in similar conditions.

I dont have it here now but guess the thread is opposit to the normal runing direction of the engine, so that it does not loosen itself. The clutch looks exactly the same for the rest.

Could also happen with newer bikes, its one of the disadvantages of carburators, they dont adjust themselves. Also it could have been something else, maybe too long on a certain angle, water getting in somewhere? But putting the choke on it to solve could explain it that its due to the weather and altitude.

or acerbis or Hebo had/had them.