crazybond700

I never need it but i have a bottle from coleman (camping stuff) which I also use in the car for a gasoline stove. Something like this but bigger http://www.coleman.com/product/16-oz-aluminum-bottle/2000016355?contextCategory=Hydration#.VZuOT0ZJkuc You can cary it in a bag from camelback, those are quite comfortable and not in the way.

THat weather (moisture) and altitude can make a great difference yes! Really needs rejeting to work propperly. (smaller because of the richer mixture). But offcoarse this is quite a hassle since you need to change it back to normal when going down. 671 is not that high, but it could (and will) make a difference than sea level). But seeing from that picture the humidity was very high and that could be a problem.

Front wheel bearing? Easy peasy lemon squeezie! Otherwise dont buy a bike, because its part of regular maintance. I would strongly recommend having fun with an old bike! So the pre pro model. Than maybe after two year when you are having great fun with it spare some money and then search a newer bike. This way you know what you want, have some experience with maintance etc. Pro's need real regular maintance, they are not easy bikes. (although superb to ride).

BTW its a 125cc crank gear!

Is the idle gear ok? Otherwise the kickstart gear wears fast. You have the ''spring'' of the 6 tooth gear correct? I mean the smaller one, which pulls the gear up. It needs to point to the above so it falls into the sloth in the case. Those pro clutches do make some noise whichs is ''normal''.

I send you a pm

Search this forum on gas gas pro 2002, and decide yourself

Also you need to get a feel for it, setting it on a specific psi or bar only works if you know the right pressure to begin with. Much sand, bit lower, try putting it wrong some times and see the difference! (once got a couple of fives because forgot that I. in a hurry did 1.5 bar and forgot to let it off again because I was helping others) More sharp stuff, try keeping a bit harder.

The best answer is probably: It depens. I always meassure them cold and expect it will go up a bit. But that just depends on what measurement you are aiming at/or talking about with friends.

Maybe he lost pressure? /I think the races are not ''that difficult'' and this is a good thing for Raga.

Many people will not recommend to buy a 2002 pro, and i would agree. Buy a newer pro, or an edition or so (old engine)/ The older bikes are very good, but a different style of engine etc.

And somethimes things dont need to make sense to be making you want them... Why buy anodised parts when normal will work the same etc.

You can buy a set of plastics and swap Furthermore the word replica means it looks like the one they race with, which is correct, in repsol collors. It says nothing about quality, performance or anything perce. I must say both repsol and the new RR look awesome, while I think the normal one does look a bit boring always, not as sharp or agressive as the 2 strokes of other brands.

The shifting is adjustable on the clutch side. There is a smal allen screw behind the clutch. FOr more info see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAHsCv647B8 I must say they are always difficult with these bikes, and I cant really care. Kick engine on in neutral, select gear to ride, and shut it of in gear...

I think the vertigo, in hands of some of the top 5 riders would result in higher rankings. Offcoarse the bike is to a big extent important, but on that level the rider makes the difference imo. It is important that the bike and brand suit you as a rider, because styles differ. However I think the (mainly Spannish) top 5 will be difficult too crack until new suberb tallent arises, or the top 5 of now gets too old.

I use 10W40 in the old bikes but 5w30 (thinner) is recomended most I think (i need 10w40 for other bikes aswell). Use motorcycle oil which is made for wet clutches. Too thick oil might cause drag amongst other things. 650cc

I mean the part that pushes the fluid, inside the master cilinder.

Its pretty much the same deal. The capacity is different for each fork (one is rebound other compression). Here is some more info http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34074-09-gas-gas-pro-fork-oil/on the alu tubes forks but its bassically the same. See http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34074-09-gas-gas-pro-fork-oil/for info http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1018648

Great comeback to win the second day in france!

Clean it a bit. I have marked all my forks so I place them back in the same manner. Small dot on the top yoke and on the fork tube with a shizzle. Remove wheel/brake/front fender. Loosen the top yoke alen screws. Loosen the top caps a bit (only because later this is more difficult. Loosen the other 2 allen screws and remove the fork. Remove the top cap and alen screw on the bottom and let the fork empty its old oil. Push it in and out to remove the last bit of oil. Remove dust cap with a screw driver or something (if you have plastics). Remove the small spring whichs holds the seal. Now push on the inner leg and the seal will come loose. Clean everything and reversly put it back together. /only after typing this I thaught of the idea to post a link to a film of jim which explains it probably way better and more clear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP-v_c0g0mw

Check fluid level first, and there should be like 3mm of free play in the lever. When cold they have this problem somethimes, does it better when warm? Good oil can also have some effect.

Dont see a reason to replace the disk. I would try a new plunger, these wear over time and is an easy fix.

Pretty sure it will fit. According to partprogram the conrod is the same on the 250-280 models. So the difference is in the diameter of the piston/cylinder.

Might definitly cause problems