crazybond700

101 seems to be the correct size, so order a half link like stated above!

Easiest is to press those bearings out using a press, home made tool, or some old sockets. Big socket on the side where you want to push it out, correct size socket on the bearing and press it in a press or use a bench vise. For the last bearing you are asking about will work the same. Here some examples (random) https://www.google.nl/search?q=socket+bearing+press&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ZcUSVdPbHI32aorTgbgL&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=805#imgdii=_

If the clutch basket has play, replace the two bearings on the shaft, and check the shaft for play. If shaft has play, replace the big bearing inside the casing (need to take engine appart)

Normally seals work that you put the spring towards what you want to keep in (towards pressure). So in case of a crank towards the crank (you dont want it to leak out pressure), in case of a suspension you want to keep the fluid in so towards the lower fork (except for up side down fork lol). So most of the time you should be able to reason how and why a seal should be mounted in some way

I always do them separate! So first left out, rebuild and in, and then right, or visa versa. THis way you cant mess up parts or so. (maybe this is not the case in your situation but just a tip)

THen we get glow in the dark casings and such, lol.

Lol, Nice you have your answers, and offcoarse we want to see results!

Did you feel the bearings on the shaft where the clutch is on? The outside two look good for as far as I can see, but try to feel play. Also there is one behind in the casing ( you cannot see it). Can you feel play on the big ''axle''? A small or big end can also explain the noise. But cannot smell that from here lol.

Allready tried: Replace pads and brake them in Clean disk, sand it Bleed system, it does not feel that spongy Caliper does not leek or shows signs of wear, rust or anything, maybe too clean. Did the old owner take it apart? and wrong? Its not brake totally bad, but just not as good as it should be. Only noticable during riding. Well, had another bike standing, and switched some parts. Brake disk was not the problem, so it should be in the master cilinder or caliper. Solver for now, still need to repair the oldsystem some time though. Apparently i was wrong! Lol. Thanks anyways

Hello, Having a bike here (txt edition) haveing some problems with the front brake. Cant find issues with caliper and has new blocks (allready used for a couple of times). The brake seems to not want to grip that much, and feels not good. Disk looks almost new, maybe the old owner did replace, i dont know. Can a disk be too smooth? We already tried just to run them in, but the problem looks to get worse instead of better. Maybe a common problem? Thanks in advance.

I am with above. I had the same problem some time ago.It was a part from the kickstarter gear (piece of thooth), that went trough the idle gear, trough the clutch and got stamped into the main gear on the crankshaft. Took it out and replaced idle gear and kickstart gear and problem solved. Still makes a little bit more noise than usual, need to replace the crank gear and clutch housing. (which already had some damage from another problem)

Without tape is possible aswell, no problem. And please try some dots in your sentences next time

Dont mess too much time with choosing a brand, all are comparable. Choose what you think is best (offcoarse reading a bit is good and helpfull) AND GO RIDE! Maybe later you will get other wisses and want an other bike or so, but main thing is to have fun which should be possible with both!

Could not keep this from you guys! Haha lol

Also know a case of broken swingarm, but must say the bike was heavily used, and it was with a BIG BIG jump (numerous), there is a point between lightness and reliability, which we have to take for granted.

Normally you can use a clear tube on the drain at the bottom, and open it and hold the tube up, but i dont think there is one on a gg carb.

Wear is not likely if its not that much used. I heard of a trick to put the bike on its side before trying to start, this would put some gas in the cilinder. You use the choke? is it ok? have you cleaned it. Maybe bigger pilot/choke jet?

I use 1:80 till 1:100! But we dont ride a lot of long paths or so because we have closed off terrains, no free riding.

The breather hose might leak some oil, further there should be no problem. Dont use the brakes and clutch, otherwise they might suck some air. Even the tank can stay if its not too flat. For my 08: For the back wheel you will need a allen 8 i think. Nothing else. Front wheel I need quite a big one! I use a home made tweaked m8 bold head. But I have an old axle, I think the newer are also doable with just a set of allen range. Front fender (bracket) is fitted with bold, 8mm or 10mm head. Handles bars shouldnt need to go off, but otherwise also allen range set.

Pieces of the kickstart (idle) wheel are a ''normal'' cause of some particles...

Hello, Busy with two gg bikes, only need to do the front ends. I had a list somewhere with the (+-) amounts of oil and the thichness, but i cannot find it anymore. Its a 2003 pro and a 2000/2001 (edition) Edition around 300cc? (somewhere in my head) Thanks!

It is alloy so dont overdo. The top ''bold'' does not do a lot, the tripple trees are attached to the steering collumn with the ring which goes on top of the bearings, this is where you take out the play with. Furtheremore the triple trees are attached to your front forks... Dont forget the small lock bold.

Somethimes they swell up causing the clutch not to work ok. But sometimes there is no problem...

I undo the bash plate from time to time and put it under the press to make it fit without a lot of force on it (takes some goes, and is quite scary because its quite bendy so you need to go quite far with the press). And check or replace the rubbers.

Vat is paid over the value added (its in the word right). So you pay over your margin. For the consumer they pay the value of the bike + vat The seller reduces this vat (paid by consumer) with the vat paid by the seller to the importer, that goes to government and this cycle continues towards the producer, and suppliers