crazybond700

and your weight?

Yeah thats true. However it does seem way better. And other machines have mostly got two seals, one for oil, and one for coolant. If the outer one breaks you will get coolant out of the weep hole. The inner than still is intact, so no flued will get in the tranny. But the gg only has a 1 seal setup. But this new ''seal'' looks way better. The common problem of the gg setup was that the shaft would get ''eaten'' and than it got leaking (picture below, have seen much wore though). I think this problem can be solved with the new setup. So only if the seal starts leaking you can have a problem, but maybe now it will only happen in the frequency with like normal/other bikes. \

There is something like ceramic coating. Dont know about prices tho

Yes, without a problem watch the video

First let us know what years it is. You can make some pvc rings to add a little to the pre load pressure of the forks

Do you live in australia? lol Nice project man!

I think its unnescisarry. On the gg you have to work quite hard to get them loose actually, because they are just stuck in between the waterpump and rad.

The inner part looks way better. The old version is just a seal with the shaft turning inside, and I think the outer brass? bushing is like holding it in place/ The shaft did get ''cut'' in quite fast making it leak and killing your clutch plates. The new one the housing is made of one peace, and the inner part looks like it has some bearing or so? At least you cant lose the small washer anymore!

Just on two wheels, with a level surface.

X-lite! Just buy and go ride!

Jim has a new video posted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cwQ2eRj-jo&list=UUuuOSB4N2iUkW8dbbH7HJpw looks much more decend than the old one!

Have a look at the waterpump, maybe peace missing? Happens sometimes when you put the waterpump on wrong, than the waterpump shaft will snap (small bits). Could be some other part aswell of course. And yes, all of the spring etc gets out of the case. Than you need to take the gear off, (remember the timing!), put new one on, replace the cap and spring, and than put it back in the casing with the spring only in the small hole, turn it one round anti clockwise, and then press the shaft into the bearing as it should be. This will bring the right pressure on the spring etc.

THe metal shavings are from the gear probably, try to get it all out. Could not really get into the crank bearing though, since there is the gear and the waterpump on top, and also some kind of cage inside the bearing. You can remove the kickstarter shaft by turning it a bit with the kickstarter mounted to the shaft and turn it anti clockwise and wiggle it a bit.

The exhaust is weldable by somebody with a good welder, make sure it is in the correct position for mounting and then weld it. Otherwise it will snap later again. (it does happen from time to time).

What about you learn their language and then tell us

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=750797758336747 hope this link works? What are they doing and why?

Deffintaly needs repair, otherwise the other gears (freewheel and the clutch) can damage. Probably the spring is broken, or the kickstarter is not mounted correctly inside. The ''clip'' needs to be mounted pointing to the top, and will fall inside the casing. The kickstart shaft is loose when the cover is off, so thats no problem.

i dont think the ignition map will make a noticably difference for a ''beginner''. I think a flywheel weight is a good addition for beginners, because this makes the engine much slower in progression and much more stable. Also the weight will add to the geroscopic effect. Buying a bike that is produced for world class events and use it as beginners is offcoarse not the way, but well the dont make lots of other bikes right. An older model gg (pro pro) will be much more add to the skills of a beginner, you will really learn trials in a better way imo. But the dont produce them anymore so you will need some mechanical skills to be able to keep them on the ''road'' lol.

guys please stop this discussion, you both are acting like little babies and this does not prove your arguments or so. Better come with good info than only trying to attack the others...

Great! So i would try: Check if the clutch lever is not too tight, make sure it has good travel. Blead the system

There are special torque wrenches available for spokes, however its doable without. Most important thing is that the thing is straight, so do it step by step, take time. There are plenty of yotube videos that describe how to spoke a wheel like told above.

I guess you placed a new waterpumpkit?

I believe the GG are reliable to some point. There is a mix of lightness and reliability, and gg (and other brands) made some choises. Compare it to dragsters, there are cars that fry complete engines each race, but aslong as the get to the finish line quick the owner is happy. If you dont want to spend money and time on maintanance I would recommend a pre-pro model, which are hard solide unbreakable bikes. If you have a pro, check it all the time for faults and maintain it good, and you will have a great bike!

Yes, thats also true, but if you do an efford in getting everything out you will manage (and you can still check the sight glass). For the TS also keep an eye out for the collor of the oil. When it looks more like milk (with chocolate? ) your waterpumpshaft is damaged and the seal is leeking.

Well you can actually go wrong with that, if the bike has been on its side, or your are holding it wrong, sometimes the oil is sitting elsewere, or needs to ''sink''. It works, imo, if you check it in like 15min or so. But 380ml in a measure jug is a bit easier messurement imo. But aslong as there is enough in it, and not too much both ways work offcoarse.