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I have just put a x11 competition tyre on my bike and had it set around 3 or 4 pound pressure but at a trial on sunday the rear wheel was still sliding around a lot, i know this weather i should expect it to slide around but it seemed worse than the tyre i took off which was a irc, the reason i changed the tyre was the irc spun around on the rim and let all of the air out so i thought it will probably happen again, time for a new one, i have noticed the walls of the new tyre seem stiffer than the other one so can anyone who uses the same tyre tell me how low they have their rear tyre, i am just over 11 stone and at 4 pound pressure the new tyre doesn't seem spread out much but i don't want to go to far and get the same problem as the irc.
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about a year ago, i had my first bike a 1999 sherco 250, when i went to pick it up i watched how he started it and then took it home but could i hell start this bike, after two days i realised i was mistakingly turning the petrol tap on the off position thinking i was putting the choke in the on position that bike was never going to start.
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i'm having the same problem, you would think that it would go better for you with not having a garage door, they are the most unsafe type of door their is, my bike is in a brick shed with a concrete flat roof, no windows, i replaced the ledge and brace door for a 1 hour fire door with anti lift bolts so you can't remove the pin from the hinges and my friend made me a ground anchor so it's chained to the concrete floor but still the answer was no, i am considering getting it road legal so then it will be covered by fire and theft but still i would hate the thought of somebody steeling my much loved bike so if you get any luck please get in touch with me and i will do the same.
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yes i'v changed the oil, i ran it for about 5 minuets then let the old oil out, left it for a good 20 minuets so it was completely empty, i put 350ml in at first just to see where it came up to on the glass and it didn't even reach the bottom of it so i put the other 100ml in and it completely covered the glass, this is where i started to think about the level, i put a spirit level on the floor but then started to question when is the bike level, on it's wheels or on the bash plate, up off the floor, i know to some people it sounds a bit of a daft question but i couldn't find the answer so here i am.
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I have had the same problem from the start, i use an apple mac so i don't know if it's because we are using safari or not.
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is a gas gas level when both tyres are on the floor or when the flat part of the bash plate is sitting on a stand.
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if you consider there is no perfect balance point and your body is constantly making very small adjustments, to keep the bike balanced, i would say a bike would be a great tool to improve your riding, even possibly working out the technical side of riding but also on the physical side, you can't go wrong, i was thinking of buying something like a mountain bike but just for the fitness side of it, ride to the shop instead of driving.
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I'm looking for the same ones, i did get a price but it was crazy money and they are from France not original, also they only sold them in a full set, i think it was £240, i suppose at a later date if i can't find anything else i would have to pay it, but it's a lot of money for a few stickers, let me know how you get on.
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From cold or when it's warm, i have to press on the kick start, not kick, just let the motor turn over a few times to prime the engine, with the choke full on, then it always takes two good kicks, thats from cold but even warm it normally will take two kicks and even more if i don't kick it just right, it seems about normal for a gas gas, mine is a 2013 txt pro standard though so we will have different carbs.
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i would say a 200-250 would be fine, you are used to bikes so you have more than a lot of people who are just starting, you could even go back to a ty, a friend i ride with, rides a ty175 and i ride a gas gas txt 250 pro but i often back down from doing somethings that he does on his, also ty's keep their value so if you start off on one and want to change to a modern bike, later on, you should get your money back, that is if you can part with the ty after using it for a while.
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I use 60 ml oral syringe with 50mm of fuel pipe on the end of it and just do 50ml at a time so it's easier to keep track of the 350ml level, i'm lucky i get them for free, i use them for toping up the rad as well, dead easy and no mess.
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when this happened to my 1999 sherco, i was a bit stumped, so i changed the plug and sniped about 10mm off the HT lead, it looked a bit corroded then took the cover off the flywheel and it looked quite damp so i used a heat gun just to dry it out a little but it still didn't start until i put a few drops of fuel into the spark plug hole and then it started, it was very sluggish for about 20-30 seconds but then kicked into life, i noticed that the seal had corroded on the flywheel cover and water had got in to the electrics so have a think back on what conditions you where riding in when it failed on you, good luck m8.
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i haven't fitted the ones you mentioned but mine are the better quality ones so i should imagine they are the same, you should overlap them by about 10mm, i would offer them up first to make sure, you will need a heat gun so get them nice and soft so you can work with them, i thought i would have to use supper glue after a few months where they overlap but it's been about four months now and they are still the same as when i put them on.
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thats around about where my rear break fluid reservoir is on my sherco.
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thanks woody, wet weather is not my strong point on any kind of ground but it never will be if i don't ride in it, it is always nice to ride some where different, so ill see you there.
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I was going to the dead easy trial but this trial is about half the distance, what kind of ground is it, falling off is part of trials riding but i wouldn't mind a soft landing for a change.
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i forgot to ask, after i have fitted the new hose, do i just fill it will coolant or do i need to bleed it in some way?
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it is the top hose i was looking for and it is just a strait piece, so it's good news really, i thought i would be paying loads more money because of the age of the bike, thanks for the help.
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i am looking for a new or used set of hoses for my 1999 sherco 250 but can't seem to find anything, i think it was the splat shop that told me that this year, sherco have stopped making parts for them so i was wondering if may be the Xispa could fit or does anyone know of something compatible or even second hand, i would prefer new but what ever i can get my hands on will do.
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Hi Gaz, i would recommend a local trial but if you are thinking of hawks nest i would arrange to go with another rider or at least take someone with you, if you have got a satnav it will take you almost there, postcode SK170TH, the manchester 17 dead easy trial are held around the buxton area and they are great fun for your first trial.
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there is quite a few of us that go to Earl shilton on a sunday, let me know when you are ready to go and we will come and have a chat, you will get plenty of help if you need it and the land is suitable for the novice or expert level, £50 a year and you can practice all day every day except for when it is a trial day and even then you can practice after the trial as finished.
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i have now got it running and it's sounding good, i haven't rewired it yet but what i did do was cut 20mm off the end of the ht lead, the earth wire was not even connected but that could of happened when i pulled everything out to have a look, the screw that fixes the earth to the frame will not budge so i have rerouted the earth and the other thing i have done is, i asked my friend to ride the bike through the stream to clean the wheels, the last time the bike was out, this is something i have always done, just before i go home, i took the stater cover off and it was wet so i left it to dry naturally for a few days then kicked the bike over and it started but it was very sluggish but after a minuet or so the revs built up and it has kicked up first time ever since, with it being my spare bike, time is on my side so after my holiday i'm going spend some time and money on it, i am really pleased that i have been able to sort it out my self and for very little money, thanks for the advice.
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almost all of the wires have got a break in them and the connections are not the best, when i said some of the wires are wrapped in tape, that is what it is like now which was done by a previous owner, as one of the other members said, a rats nest, so i have already got some shrink wrap and not only do i want to change the wires but i want to smarten it up as best as i can, it should make fault finding much easier in the future, thanks for the advice.
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if this had append to my new gas gas then i wouldn't hesitate in taking it to a shop or someone in the know but it's actually quite interesting to me, my knowledge is limited but i have looked at the wiring and it is pretty basic also i have managed to source one of the harnesses i need from ebay and that is basically just unplug the old one and plug the new one in, for the rest of the wires that need changing they are just single wires taped together, nothing hard and fast, it's more about learning more than anything else, i have always had a kind of fear when it comes to electrics on a bike but with it being an old bike and my spare i feel more confident in trying things out, if nothing i do works then off to the shop it goes.
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thanks m8, i'v just ordered everything i need for £12.55 from maplins and it's free delivery.
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