I have never given it a second thought as to why youth riders (or their parents) pay less for and entry. As far as I'm aware kids always get a reduction on an adults full price, bus fare, cinema, amusement parks, sports grounds, holidays etc etc. why should trials be any different?
All of the clubs I ride with, the majority of organisers are ex youth riders, they've been riding 30,40,50 years some of them, they certainly don't do it for the money, they do it for their love of the sport and for the enjoyment of others.
Anything that encourages kids to get out of the house, get some exercise and off a computer or mobile phone should be supported wholeheartedly by society and if I as an adult have to chip in an extra couple of quid to help parents do so, then I don't begrudge a penny.
You really need to ride the bikes to see what suits your riding style, however having said that, there's no reason why you couldn't adapt, which you're going to have to do coming from a twinshock.
Now I'm not a good rider by any means and if I were to ride a different bike, I don't believe it wouldn't make me a better rider
So here's my personal reasons why I love my 4RT:-
Looks, sound, build quality, parts availability and price, not a lot of maintenance required, no mixing of fuel, lower depreciation
Some modern 2T riders have tried a 4RT and gone back to a 2T as they can't get on with them, others have never looked back, so as i said at the beginning, you really need to ride different bikes to see what suits you.
Loosen the drive sprocket nut first by bending the tab washer out of the way, select first gear, foot hard on rear brake to stop engine from turning whilst you undo the nut, remove the chain and drive sprocket, I think there's also a spacer on the shaft behind the sprocket, once you've slid that off, apply a bit of heat to the casing around the seal and you should be able to pop the old seal out.
When putting the new seal in, again a bit of heat on the casing and using the spacer as a guide and a suitable sized drift (usually a big socket or a piece of tubing) tap the new seal in keeping it square to the casing as you go.
Theoretically you should also replace the tab washer behind the nut on the drive shaft, also if the sprocket is showing signs of wear you might as well replace that at the same time
It's a fairly simple job if you have the right tools and a bit of mechanical savvy, but if you're not sure, then it's best to find someone who is
As for the bike, 250 is fine, if you'd prefer a 4T then Montesa 4RT all day long or a Beta 4T if you'd prefer a carb, perhaps a trials experience day would be of benefit
Before you can ride in a trial you'll need an ACU trials licence (although I believe some clubs are now doing day licences)
Your tick over sounds very fast, your tachometer/hourmeter is not correct, this maybe because the signal wire from the tachometer is too long and in contact with the fuel tank
Here are the instructions for de-restricting the 4rt, I suggest that you check that the dealer has made all the changes needed, especially removing the green/white wire from the connector and any restrictions in the throttle body and airfilter.
One thing to consider is fuel, my standard 4rt does 8-10 miles per litre, so with your 15 mile journey to the practice ground, you'll just about use a full tank of fuel to get there on a 4rt and then need to refill to get you home.
With a Hebo auxilary tank on the forks and a H&M seat with build in tank, I've managed to get my 4rt's fuel carrying capacity up to 5 litres
The H&M seat does demount in seconds but leaves a hooked mounting bracket just in the right place to cause some nasty damage to your spherical adornment
Another consideration is tyres, with 30 miles of road work each time you ride to and from the practice ground, they're not going to last long as a trials tyre
The picture I posted has a bar that goes underneath the vehicle.
No it does not
It has a flange mounting adapter, to which the arms of the rack attach to. It also has a Bak-Rak adapter bolted through the tow ball and said flange adaptor. There is most definitely not a bar that hooks under the car and braces against the tow bar frame.
The photograph of a bike rack on the floor is not a Dave Cooper rack and I think it's method of attachment is being miss interpreted.
There is an assembly which consists of a tow hitch and a horizontal square tube attached to a clamp which then goes onto the swan neck tow bar.
The two frames then slide into the horizontal tube and are held in place with pinch bolts, the bar that has been identified as going under the tow bar frame is in fact one of the bike supports, looks like the picture was taken at a garage sale.
Before everyone gets carried away with redesigning this product take a closer look
Or have I got it wrong ?
You are correct
The problem with the Bak-Rak is that it clamps on the ball and not the ball+the stem, hence why it can pivot until the Bak-Rak hits the stem, however Bak Rak do an anti pivot collar which clamps to the stem, but personally I'd invest the £70 for a flanged swan neck
Went to a trial, kicked bike a few times, then realised lanyard was left on a shelf in the garage, this was followed by desperately searching every orifice in the van until that tatty old spare was found
They're easy enough to take apart, small screwdriver between the two halves to release clips, clean up the contacts, check for any plastic flashing inhibiting movement of spring or contact, give spring a slight stretch, put back together and see if it works.
Owners manual is a bit vague regarding running in and when to change the oil etc
"Operate the motorcycle for the first 20 minutes using not more than half throttle and shifting gears so that the engine does not lug"
In the maintenance schedule it says to replace engine oil and oil filter after the first break in period and also to check valve clearances too.
However I can't find any specification to the actual length of the break in period.
I rode mine on and off for approx 2hrs then changed engine oil, gearbox oil and oil filter
I did check the valve clearances after a few more hours running and was surprised to find that they were smaller than specified, which is the opposite of what I expected
Connect your original two blue wires together, then take a wire from this connection to one wire of the lanyard and then connect the other lanyard wire to earth
So that when you pull the cap off the kill switch, the current will go to earth rather than onto the coil
2 TY250 Yamaha Stolen
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Knowsley police may have found the top one, it's on facebook