ourian

At a guess you haven't put the carb back together correctly, strip it back down and be meticulous when re assembling. A few possibilities are - throttle valve binding, needle jammed or wrongly positioned, throttle cable not seated correctly either end

Have a look at the section, if you're not confident, just take a five and go on to the next one. Have a great day and good luck.

There are two ways I can think of to solve the problem 1) move the pivot (fulcrum) point back 2) shorten the distance from the fulcrum point to the point of load and the point of effort i.e. reduce the distance from the pivot to where the brake rod/cable attaches to the pedal and shorten the pedal itself, however, this method would require the now shorter pedal to travel further downwards to create the same braking effect as before.

I tend to agree with you. It's the distance in a straight line from the fulcrum point to the point of which the effort is applied which determines the force required.

Yes that was me, am still editing will post some more soon.

You'll need a bit of audio to appreciate the video.

As Stephen above says I doubt if you'd get a 4rt in a nemo, the load area is only 1500mm long. I've got an 05 Berlingo 1.9 non turbo, it's cracking van, you'd get both your bikes diagonally (with front wheels turned to the side) in the back plus all your gear, you might have to compress the 4rt forks with a ratchet strap though, as the roof height is 1120mm. A Peugeot Partner is the same as the Berlingo. Other choices in this size are the Vauxhall Combo, VW Caddy, Renault Kangoo or the Transit Connect. For a slightly higher roof there's the Peugeot Expert or Fiat Scudo If you want the bikes in straight with plenty of room then you'd have to go for a Transit/ VW Transporter/ Vivaro/Traffic size. Something to think about is - how long before the Oset 20 becomes a Gas Gas 50? Word of advice though, if you are going for a high mileage turbo diesel make sure it has full and I mean full service history. Good luck hunting.

Under stop allowed rules, 'No motion' is allowed and incurs no penalty, this is the whole basis of stop allowed rules as opposed to No stop. The only failures (5's) whilst stopped and footing are when (1) only one hand is on the bars (2) engine is stopped Both of which deem you to have lost control of the bike whilst footing, which is basically 2 different faults occurring at the same time and I'd guess that is how they arrived at them being failures. All other failures are obvious, if you have left the course, go in the wrong direction, are not astride the bike or cheat Under stop allowed stop + dab cannot be classed as a failure because there is only one fault occurring and not two different faults. To do so would not be very sportsmen like as it would go against the basis of how the rules were written in the first place. One could say that the introduction of stop allowed was not very 'Sporting' as it undervalued the athletic performance of the riders.

See what I mean, start changing the current rules and you get all sorts of technical complications At a guess, if and when you twist the twist grip on an electric bike and the motor's rpm doesn't increase your either a 5 for getting off and pushing or a 3 for paddling your way out of the section.

'We could have rules that require forward motion regardless of engine status' Do you mean the current 'Non stop' set of rules? By introducing a stop + dab = 5 rule into stop allowed, means that you would then have to delete, add or amend other rules to accommodate it, then you'd have someone else harping on about 'I used to be able to stop, stall the engine, balance and kick start it but now I can't without getting a 5' or the 'whats the point of having the stop,dab stall = 5 rule because I get a 5 whether the engines running or not' brigade coming out of the woodwork or the 'there used to be a penalty for an engine stall' fanatics giving their tuppence worth. The simple solution if you were to change the stop + dab = penalty rule would be to give it a 2 or a 3

Under stop allowed rules a stop + dab = 1 point. There's also a rule which says a stop + dab + engine stall = 5 Twinshocked would like to change the stop + dab rule to = 5, this would make the stop + dab + engine stall rule obsolete and therefore no penalty could ever be incurred for an engine stall. Unless a new rule was included which says stop + engine stall = 5 But it's stop allowed rules so why should you incur a penalty for stopping , it makes no sense, like you say if you can clear the section with a stalled engine = no penalty. The irony is what are you going to call the new set of rules? Stop allowed or stop allowed only whilst the engine is running.

Do you mean under twinshocked's rules? which must be stop allowed, he wants stop + dab = 5 If you have this ruling then you'd need to remove the engine stalled, stopped and dab rule because there would be no point in having it. You'd get a 5 whether the engine was running or not, so where in the stop allowed rules could you included a penalty for a stopped engine? Engine stalled whilst stopped without dabbing? But it's stop allowed, 'Ah no it's the new stop allowed only when the engines running set of rules'

I take it under US rules a stop is allowed without penalty, a dab is 1 point (a fault), so logically a stop with a dab would still be only 1 point (1 fault) , unless the engine has stalled whilst stopped and there is no forward motion which is a 5 (a failure) If it were 5 for a stop and dab, which is a failure in your eyes, then you'd have to remove the rule regarding a stalled engine whilst stopped and dabbing with no forward motion, which would lead to even more confusion i.e. what fault is incurred for an engine stop? none being the answer.

If the points gap is set too wide, this could prevent the points from closing when the flywheel is on.

I'm with the NO vote and here's one reason why bigger bhp isn't always better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjFeC7g6_40

It is possible that it's just the anodising that has cracked, the anodised surface is harder and more brittle than the aluminium underneath, so where as the aluminium will bounce as it were the anodising won't. Personally I wouldn't do anything other than keeping a close eye on it should a larger crack develop.

Take plug out, kick bike over a few times with cut out switch pressed in, heat plug (electrode end) on gas cooker ring or blow torch to burn off excess fuel, clean off with wire brush, put plug back in bike and try starting as normal

I've recently brought another TY to restore, in his advert the guy said it had been sitting for a number of years and that once he had ultrasonically cleaned the carb it fired up first kick. Sure enough when I went to see it, it started no problem, however the carb started overflowing. At the time I thought possibly the needle valve might be knackered? but on getting it home I stripped the carb and hey presto there was a bit of lacquer stuck in the needle valve. Anyhoo there's a passage which goes from the pilot jet through to the throat of the carb, unfortunately this goes through a 90 degree turn before exiting in the carb's throat, if this is still dirty it could cause the problem your having, as could a bit of lacquer that has come loose and is now blocking either main, pilot jet or one of the passages. Also another thought, as you're running premix make sure the little brass pipe on the carb, where the oil feed pipe used to go has been properly blocked off Edit: they do smoke a bit when cold, and should not be so smoky once warmed up, however if I go up a long steep hill, by the time I'm at the top it does smoke more, but does goes away, I believe this is because the float level changes as you go up an incline and temporarily floods the carb once you level out.

I take it you have thoroughly ultra sonically cleaned the carb and renewed any 'o' rings Float height set at 21mm Try setting mixture screw at 2.75 turns out Might also be worth investing in a new pilot jet Do you have an in line fuel filter fitted? 50:1 fuel/oil ratio is fine to use, if your not sure what that is, it's 100ml of oil to 5 litres of petrol

Could you not make your own from some solid rubber block or adapt some others to fit? As for the dimensions, can you not take them from the frame mounts and the tank?

You need to find which is the positive wire to the coil, then splice one of the wires from the cut out switch in to this positive wire whilst allowing the positive wire to still connect to the coil and then connect the other wire from the cut out switch to earth. Cut out switches work by sending the positive voltage to earth when pressed or in the case of a lanyard pulled off i.e. the voltage doesn't reach the coil to make a spark it is diverted straight to earth.

It's can be a combination of using both engine braking and using brakes, the trick is recognising when then engine is about to stall and pulling in the clutch before it does. Be careful of applying front brake to hard especially if turning whilst going down hill, the front wheel is likely to go from under you if there's little grip.

A blow out with compressed air won't shift the old lacquer/resin, you may be able to see through a jet and think it's clean, but there will still be a coating of lacquer on the bore of any jet /passage. I'd guess what is happening is that you blow it out, start bike up and a bit of lacquer becomes dislodged and blocks one of your orifices (ooo er missus) so you strip carb blow out again and the whole process repeats itself, hence the sudden hair loss. Maplins do an ultrasonic cleaner for £30 + a bottle of seaclean £6. unfortunately the bowl isn't deep enough to get the whole carb in but just do it a bit at a time. Strip the carb and place all the jets in the cleaner with double dose of seaclean, put the cleaner through several cycles, change liquid and clean again several more times, rinse in clean water, blow out the jets etc and leave to dry overnight. With the carb body, again double dose of seaclean and put it through several cycles rotating the carb with each cycle, you'll be surprised at how clean it becomes and think you have a new carb, now replace the fluid in the cleaner and do several more cycles, rinse in clean water, blow out all the passages and leave to dry overnight. It might seem a lot of cleaning but it's definitely worth it. Reassemble carb, fit to bike, turn fuel on, pull out choke, wait 30 secs, kick it over and smile. Word of warning on ultrasonic cleaner don't put your fingers in the fluid whilst it going through a cycle, don't bother with the plastic trays (you don't get such a good clean) just put items to be cleaned straight in the metal bowl.

If you're having to put fuel down plug hole to start it, I'd be looking at fuel starvation, is the float needle sticking? also as Dadof2 says are the passages in carb clear? Have you removed float needle seat and give that passage a good blow out? How did you clean the carb? if you used carb cleaner I hope you removed the rubber 'o' rings first they don't like carb cleaner, ultra sonic is best. Laquer/resin in a carb is a pig to get rid of, carb cleaner doesn't touch it, either invest in a ultrasonic cleaner and some decent detergent or take the carb to a garage and get them to ultrasonically clean it and blow out the jets and passages with compressed air.