ourian

Because of the lack of details, it's not easy to cast an opinion, however, if you believe that you have a valid complaint under the sale of goods act, then you could either contact Trading Standards or take the case to a small claims court. Prior to doing either, write to the dealer politely explaining your side of the situation and ask them what they suggest to conclude a positive outcome. Depending on their reply you could then seek legal advice and decide on what course of action to take. Edit: At this stage do not name and shame!

Oh how lucky we are in the UK Trials bike can be registered for on the road use, there are plenty of what we call green lanes which are official roads but without tarmac, dirt tracks basically. My local club is 40 mins away, £50 a year membership allows me to use the trials ground for practice at any time I wish. There's another club about an hour away £25 membership and use of a practice ground for a £30 key deposit Most trials clubs in the UK hold a trial each month, entry fees are £12-15, I could easily ride in a trial every week if I wished, all within an hours drive. There are a few private 'user pays' practice areas usually £10 per day per bike. You favourite spot doesn't sound too bad @ £27 for two bikes for the day, not much different in price to one of our trials events which usually only last for 3 hours The main problem you seem to have is the distance you have to travel to get to places you can ride.

My advice is - strip carb and have all parts ultrasonically cleaned, replace o rings with new, check float height = 21mm, reassemble, mixture screw setting 2.5 to 2.75 turns out. Remove petrol tap from tank and clean, wash tank out with fresh fuel, reassemble, fit inline fuel filter. If you use carb cleaner instead of ultra sonic, remove all o rings first, they don't like it.

It's doubtful you will be able to register it as new, it will receive a number plate relative to the date on the certificate of newness. At a guess you will have to contact Craig's motorcycles and request proof that vat was paid on import.

Ref:- Type approval, Q11 on V355 leave blank and fill in Q47 saying why vehicle is exempt 'Competition Trials Motorcycle' should suffice. Ref:- HMRC Nova1 Did you import it or did a dealer import it? Do you have original receipt? If you imported it, you should have notified HMRC within 14 days, if a dealer imported it I'd be asking the dealer for the paperwork.

Sorry Pat, I should have explained a bit further, as feetup has said the levers are forged steel and can be welded using plain mild steel, however due to the characteristics of forged steel it is recommended to use stainless rods when welding forged steel, as using mild steel tends to cause cracking of the weld in high stress areas.

On mine the lever has been arc welded to the knuckle (prior to me owning it), although it looks like ordinary arc welding I'd guess a special rod was used possibly one for welding stainless as there is no rust. There are no signs of cracking and it has served me well for the past 10 months, so I'd say yes they can be properly and durably welded, if you know what you're doing that is.

Most clubs have a web site, check out their fixtures lists, each club usually holds one trial a month throughout the whole year, mainly on a Sunday but some clubs do Saturdays and some do midweek evening trials during the summer. I'm very lucky, I have 4 or 5 clubs (possibly more) within an hours drive of where I live, so a trial a week (sometimes two) is possible. Trials is one of the few non seasonal sports

I think the pegs you're talking about were a modification and not off the peg pegs

If your rear wheel is at or near full adjustment to take up chain tension, then this will also affect your rear brake adjustment. You could try removing the actuating arm from the drum and moving it round a tooth on it's spline, this will give you more adjustment and reduce the pedal travel.

You need to fit a half link to give you more adjustment

My frame number is 525-222716 it was registered in August 1985 yet declared manufactured in 1984, mine should also be a 1980 model according to the list, yours looks like it is slightly newer than mine maybe by a day or so. However someone did mention that a dealer in the UK purchased a bulk lot of TY's back in the 80's and sold them off gradually over the years.

Here's a full link to some chain info, if you do some measuring you'll be able to tell what size chain you have

Depending where in the Midlands you are, Earl Shilton Trials Club does a conducted beginners route, they also have their own practice ground, there is a trial on Sunday 10th August, come and have a look.

The CC's will be on the engine barrel As for your brake and clutch levers having no ball ends, over here it's a requirement to have them ball ended, they help prevent the levers from piercing skin and muscle tissue. Also the funnel piece on the end of your exhaust looks like it might be a spark arrestor. As for learning to ride trials, you'll find it a bit more technical than other off road bikes, learning to fall off is number one priority. Good luck

Come on then Tony enlighten us as to which oil caused the problem and which oil fixed the problem.

If using rubber matting on floor put carpet underlay down first then rubber on top - with knees like mine it's a godsend.

Is the thick rubber pipe (thats leaking) from the bulkhead or the servo unit? If its from the servo unit, then it shouldn't go to the floor but to the vacuum pump instead, if there is no pipe from servo unit to vacuum pump, this would explain you not having any brakes. If there is a pipe from servo unit to vacuum pump, it could be the vacuum pump at fault Pictures help a lot, have you got any you could post?

ourian, on 02 Jul 2014 - 9:26 PM, said: Well it certainly displaces water, as for a degreaser I would say that is not, you could use it as a degreaser/cleaner simply due to the solvents contained in it, but it leaves a wax like lubricating residue behind once the solvent has evaporated, similar to ordinary chain lube, hence my recommendation. I also use it on my brake, clutch and throttle cables, cleans the crud out, displaces water and lubricates too. The problem with WD40 is not it's degreasing capabilities which are excellent for cleaning a chain, but it does not have lasting lubrication properties, unlike Wilko's maintenance spray. For the sake of £1 I'd say give it a try.

Wilko's 'loosen up' maintenance spray, £1 a can, excellent as a light chain lube and maintenance spray after washing, it leaves a light wax like coating once dry.

Have you had a washing machine in the van at any time? They look like washing machine drum locking bolts

Could it be as simple as the gearbox oil needs changing? Let the engine warm up for at least 5 mins, then try the clutch, if it works ok, change the gear box oil. Have you check the hydraulic fluid level in the clutch reservoir? If it is still giving problems after changing oil, then it could be a number of things, master cylinder seals, air in system, clutch plates sticking together and anything else others may come up with.

Alternatively how about contacting these http://www.justridingalong.com/parts/wheel-parts/spokes.html http://holmeshobbies.com/Sapim-Stainless-Custom-Spokes.html http://voltriders.com/?page_id=8 Or maybe off the shelf from these guys http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/458-1-pcs-stainless-steel-spoke-with-a-brass-nipple.html

Are these guys any good for you http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/spokes/spokes.html

I'm 32" - 34" waist 28" leg and find that Wulfsport pants size large fits fine, apart from the leg length being an inch or so too long.