japes1275

Well I watched Guy on a couple of sections yesterday and he looked interested in what he was doing and not 'playing' at it. You could tell he wasn't going to do very well though! Also good to see that he didn't look like he'd gone out and bought 'all the gear'! I was one of the ones that didn't get a ride but I'm not bitter, in fact after watching some of them struggle up Pipeline I'm almost glad I didn't get an entry!!

This might be of interest to anyone travelling to Fort William in the next few days! https://trafficscotland.org/news/story.aspx?id=13718

Excellent, cheers Andy. The 10.50 time will give me time to have a nice relaxing Scottish breakfast before setting off up the hill!!

Can anyone point me in the direction of any spectator information prior to me heading to Scotland on Thursday? I'm particularly interested in watching pipeline and wonder which day they are doing it and what sort of time the riders might start arriving. Thanks.

The valve lifter was fitted by my dad years ago and I guess he just got a B40 rocker cover and lifter. It ran fine for years but was a bit noisy. When I came to rebuild the engine I found that the exhaust valve guide was loose in the head and the valve stem mushroomed over. When putting it all back together after a full rebuild for some reason I couldn't get any clearance on the exhaust valve, basically the lifter was holding it slightly open and there didn't seem to be way of adjusting it. I decided it that as I'd ridden it for years without a lifter that it would be fine without so didn't bother investigating further and removed it. The Electrex world took a little setting up and I guess that if you didn't have all the gear (like a DTI and a degree wheel) then it would be fairly easy to get it wrong. Its not really something that can be set up roughly and then adjusted easily after - well not without removing the primary cover a few times. It runs really nicely with the Electrex world, picks up well from low revs and you can really feel the change in advance as the revs build. I too have a bad right knee and leg and although it hurts a bit I can still start it ok. I'm hoping it will get better, my leg I mean! I can probably find the instructions for setting it up and send a copy if you like. I'm afraid I'm going to keep the lifter, to be honest it's all a bit homemade and the rocker cover is still on the bike with the hole plugged so it wouldn't consist of much. I might sell the bike if my leg doesn't get any better so will keep it for the next owner.

I've recently removed the valve lifted off my C15. It was more trouble than it was worth and now I've got brakes that seem to work it was virtually redundant. I never used it for starting. I've got the Electrex world ignition as well now and once warm its a very easy kick to start it. It retards itself for starting. My standard B40 has a valve lifter that works but I rarely use it for starting. It's a low comp military bike and starts easily with standard ignition. I do use it for steep descents though as the brakes don't work!!

It shouldn't be any disadvantage for the sections, just not as good for any road use. You should still be able to get the gearing you would want for 1st and 2nd. I've got a B40 WD in standard trim (as they should be!) and to be honest it's a pain on the road, you have to rev the nuts off it in 3rd and then you change up to 4th and it struggles to pull it! In 30 mph zones it's either revving away or struggling in top! But it's a great bike and the wide ratio box comes into its own for green lanes and on the Beamish Trial etc. It just needs a little more power and a little less weight to ease the frustration!

Just realised, mine is a Monobloc so the problem seems to be on more than one type of carb.

Yes, mine was the same. The float looks to be the right dimensions but the new viton needle is too short and there is no way of adjusting anything as far as I can see. I put the old white nylon one back in and it is fine so far. I'll have a look at your suggestion next time it's in bits Stan, thanks.

You wouldn't be able to change gear while braking either. Not much of an issue on a trials bike I suppose. I ride classic bikes and modern ones on a day to day basis in the summer months with hardly any confusion. Unfortunately usually the only time confusion occurs is in emergency braking situations! One way to get yourself used to it is to try and remember to place the toe of your boot on the brake lever at the start of each section. And on the road I try and remember to do a practice emergency stop just after setting off. It all helps.

DD, this the thread I read and got most of my info off: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/54823-road-registering/?fromsearch=1

I just registered my bike last year and I think I just risked it until I got a reg number, it isn't particularly valuable though. Registration using the VMCC was very easy and took only a couple of weeks once I'd got it mot'd. I've got 3 classic bikes worth about £12k altogether and my renewal from RH insurance has just come through at £150. That's without any stipulation for any form of security. I do have lots of security but that's because I'm paranoid about it not because the insurers demand it!!

Yes well said from me as well. I did a trial on my fairly genuine pre 65 C15T last month and was most suprised to come 1st in the Clubmans class against about a dozen twin shock bikes. I even managed to lose less marks than a lot of riders on modern bikes that were riding non competetively. That was really satisfying in itself but even more so knowing that my bike hasn't been tricked up to the max like so many old bikes.

My C15 is quite a way out, I spent ages when rebuilding it to get it right but it was never going I happen. For trials use you'll never notice it, I don't even notice it on the road to be honest but I bet looks a bit wierd from behind!

EnginE number should look like this: http://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/engineandframenumberintro.html

Check your frame and engine numbers and then have a look here: http://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/engineandframenumberintro.html Scroll down to the bottom for the link to the numbers. Frame number should be on the left side of the head stock and engine number stamped into the alloy crankcase directly below the bottom barrel fin on the left side.

What Charlie says. Mine didn't get a full rebuild by any means, rebore, new piston, new clutch, selector shaft, sleeve gear bushes, new valves and guides plus all seals and gaskets - not much change from £500 there and it could easily be more. My bike has the larger front engine sprocket so didn't need the crank case grinding away. It's originally a trials model so maybe the trials gearbox is lower in 1st, 2nd and third to compensate. Anyway I've managed to get the gearing I want without using the so called trials gearing 18t engine sprocket.

You feel that £200 is cheap? I'd say it was daylight robbery - by you! The engine alone would go for more than that on eBay. Having watched a few recently I'd have been happy to bid up to about £800 on it just from looking at the photos. Unfortunately I'd say your £2-300 budget might need a review! For example just something simple like a primary drive rebuild will take half of that straight away. But I suppose if you take your time, use secondhand parts, don't replace things unless it's absolutely necessary and do all the work yourself then you should get a decent bike for little money. Good find!

The entries for the Scottish closed on the the 4th December Wallo. They all go into a ballot (about 350 for 180 places this year I think) for the 180 places and then the unsuccessful ones go into another ballot for the 25 reserve places. I failed to make either list. It's the first time I've tried to enter and no negative comments game back about my bike, the letter tells you try again next year and that on your third unsuccessful attempt you are almost guaranteed an entry. The conditions of entry state that the organisers reserve the right to give entries to certain people and I can well understand that. The likes of Mick Grant and Guy Martin are always going to get in over your average (or less than average in my case!) clubman due to the crowds they draw - and their past in whatever discipline earns them that right if you ask me. As Charlie points out, it can only be a good thing for Pre 65 trials.

Arie, would you mind me asking what car or cars you drive? I'm wondering if I know you from another forum!

So a non Pre 65 'Otter(?)' is ok but my real BSA C15 isn't? Who does this Martin bloke think he is?! My 'sorry you didn't make it' letter arrived this morning but I'm not bitter, honest!

Electrex world now fitted and tested and working great. Fitting was easy ish but as usual took a lot longer than expected. I welded a bracket under the seat to mount the coil and had to extend the wiring a bit to get the cut out on the bars, I think the coil is designed to go under the tank but it's a bit awkward to fit there. The rotor fitted ok and I'm reasonably happy with the taper system it uses, I made a tab washer and Locktited it to make sure it doesn't come loose. The stator is the main problem for ease of fitting. The slots in it are bigger than the studs so it can move if not careful, I was pre warned by madmostin so had an idea to improve it. I basically made some thin spacers that fitted over the studs to keep the stator central in the slots. It seemed to work ok. Wiring it up is easy as its a very simple system. It started first kick and it runs superbly, pick up is much better and it revs nicely. It's massively improved the rideability in sections which is exactly what I needed. So it's a great system, very expensive but looks well made and good quality. It's just a pity they didn't come up with a better way of mounting the stator on the studs.

I can help you with the exhaust pipe maybe. I've got the old high level pipe from my bike before I restored it, it's a bit pited in places but totally sound and would be good to cut up for a high level straight through job or to use for when you go trialling. I'll start you off with the cheap parts, you can have it for postage costs.

Nothing wrong with a C15 as a project, lots of bits available and as cheap as anything else from that era. I'm taking it that you intend to go down the trials route once the bobber project is over? My C15 is a distributor type but I've got a side points B40 so I'm guessing they are similar. The points plate just fits onto the end of the cam with a wire through the timing cover to the loom. I've just converted mine to electronic ignition and it is a big improvement but for it depends on whether you want lights as to the best system to go for. You don't need electronic ignition though contrary to what many will tell you, my side points B40 has been very reliable and starts easily. For parts I use Draganfly and TMS of Nottingham mostly but sometimes ebay as postage costs are often less.

No, it's still going to look like a 'modern' Pre 65. But if a Cub is allowed to use a Mikuni why can't a B40 or AJS etc? Where does it all end? My rear shocks don't seem to work properly so unfortunately the only thing I can do is convert it mono shock etc etc etc.....