dhs10

Yes I have thought about 4 speed box and have a eye open for one but I have been told that the 3 speed gearbox is fine on the road. I will look at the seal, thanks for the reply

I am putting the final touches to a James am building got it started and there was a intermitant noise comming from the engine and think have found the problem I have fitted the smaller front sprocket and the chain is slightly rubbing the front crank case with the seal I brought all the parts from villiers services and they said I need to use a die grinder to make it fit thats OK, and I mention the play on the clutch hub shaft (9E conversion on 8E gbox) and they told me there is an adjuster behind the gearbox casing where the push rod goes through but cannot find any details apart from the play should be 0.02" just need an idea how to do it also I have to align the front sprocket with the clutch hub, anybody else already done this? Just wanted some advice while I am waiting for the gaskets to arrive.

Thank you for your replies, I have an alloy head which I am told should be an iron head, as for the handling and gearing. Gearbox already sorted as is the front end. Just need some help with the set up of the rigid back end which I already have the Reynolds tubing waiting. Just concentrating on cutting weight where I can. I think the alfin barrel and the original iron barrel there is only a 2lb weight difference which I recently found out. I think I have found a place where I can get a big chunk of alloy billet so may get one turned up.

Thanks for your replies, the engine is a 1948 AJS 350 16M and I was wondering about using it for trials and wanted to get an ALFIN barrel to fit Was there a flange at the top as well as the bottom. Is it a straight replacement?

I have a 16M engine and I am confused by what Alfin barrel will fit , what is the flanged type? Were that that many different Alfin barrels? Does anybody know how many were made?

Hello My mid section on my mar was rattly so I cut mine open neatly cut near the seem at the top and the center where there are two indentations. I found inside mine was a like it looked like a cross between plastic and melted exhaust packing materiel this was around a perforated tube I removed the what was left of the wading and welded the tube in place so it didn't rattle anymore then put a blow torch (plumbers torch) in one end it really flows through and soon gets red hot so watch out also it smokes like hell, once this is complete bend it back in place and weld up. I brought a silencer from in motion and welded the piece you get with the pipe and bracket onto the frame it looks and sounds good. Finally rubbed the rear sub frame loop from one suspension bracket to the other and spayed with smooth silver hamerite looks good as new, note: take your time in positioning the silencer it makes all the difference to the way it sits next to the frame and Rear Mudguard

Ok thanks I will try John Bartram, I would really like to try and get the frame I posted in the picture it makes a get looking bike (I hope it handles as good as it looks). If you wouldn't mind taking some photo's and some dimensions that would be really helpful. I have somebody to make the frame so all I need is to borrow a frame or get the original drawings. Thanks again best regards Duncan

Thanks for the replies I am hoping to see the concrete mixer at the VMCC trial at Chedworth in a couple of weeks. Is Paul Jackson still making frames, I heard he had also finished making frames? Any contact details? I was hoping to get the rigid version any other Ideas where I can get plans Jigs, Drawings anything?

Hello does anybody know where I can get the drawings/dimensions for a Ariel HT 1954 rigid frame, I have found a website which mentions Jim Susan's Bikecraft and it says he has retired. I have attached a picture