i'am just negotiating for an old Sy250F and i've already heard about spongy clutch and lack of power at low revs...any other bad things, or any solution for these two?
I know I am a bit late but where are those holes should be positioned? i'm just about to buy SY250F and it seems I'll need all those mods to make it jump right.
Whenever started with choke it goes to high revs, so I have to kill the choke after 2-3 secs. Usually it kills the engine, so I have to kick it again (with the choke), kill the choke as it starts, and the engine continue to idle normally (probably warmed up).
One more thing: mine is Sherco 2012 and it has the switch for two modes of throtlle response, but honestly I can't see the difference. Is there any proper way to check if it works at all?
New question appears since I'm getting to know more and more about my second hand, eight years old mistress:
My chain tensioner has plenty of free play, so I bought new bushes.Now I wonder if they are covered with teflon (there is some layer inside), because if they are, no grease should be used (that's how I have ruined Heim joint on my KTM). Old set is still working but I need proper info before I buy new chain tensioner due to worn out bolt or axle or whatever it is called..
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Edited by exman photo place by mistake in the middle of text
I did check suspension and found out that four out of six needle bearings were frozen. I had to make bearing puller (overall cost 30$) since it was impossible to press the bearings out of swingarm housing. Had to replace suspension plate, all sbearings and seals, and everything works fine now, but ground clearance remained the same. Herebelow is the photo of the bearing puller (could be used on the dogbone too), and I can make a dimensioned drawing if anybody else like to do it himself.
If I am reading the 05 manual correctly I think your looking at this one. "rear spring: force at 10 mm compressed196 - 232 N (19.9 - 23.6 kgf)" Didn't see a force for the front...
I am pretty sure my 07 is the same but would be willing to double check tonight if you want me to.
As for your 85-87kg (geared) I run the stock spring on my 07 and am also in that range with gear and don't have any issues with stock springs.
I do find I like a little more preload in the front than in the rear (not much more though) and had the settings turned down for compression and rebound to make the suspension a little faster than the stock settings as my 07 felt a little slow and heavy before doing so.
hope that helps.
I'm afraid "force at 10mm .." is too sofisticated for me. I measured spring free length, put prescribed preload and expected ground clearance according to the book. My next step will be bearings and bushes inspection (thanks to jrsunt). And after that, if you can be more specific with setings of the comp/reb, I would try with your number of clicks. Hope this is not too boring for you guys but in my age you have to be fast learner
Are the bearings and bushes in good order? If they are really worn that could result in a substantial loss of clearance
Bad weather next week means plenty of time for the inspection. Tks for the advice.
Does anybody know what are the spring rates for original springs, in other words do I have to change it with my 85-87kg (geared)?My Montesa is a kind of shorty with her 295mm, since Manual says that ground clearance should be 335mm . I haven't checked front spring yet, rear one and it's preload are as specified in Manual.
Being not much of a rider I hope this might be crucial thing that will improve my otherwise enormous riding potential
So it sounds like a flush and refill with the Engin Ice might help. You might also run a tank of injector cleaner, double check the tea bag filter, and double check how clean the TB is, maybe fuel systems a bit restricted or your getting an inacuret air volume mesurement because of some build up in the TB? (I doubt it but maybe?)
Good luck.
Engine Ice did the job, fan is not running all the time any more which is acceptable for the time beeing (+15 Celsius outside). Next step is tea bag filter, fortunately I've found out the meaning of it. Hope you won't hear of me until next summer
Even more often. The time it's not running will be very short.
But I guess as long as it's not spitting out coolant, you're ok.
Maybe you could measure the time it's not running and compare it with someone else's 250 4RT, to put you at ease.
There's a reason why one recommends to install a larger radiator when using 280 or 300cc big bore kits. I've got one on my 300RR just to be sure.
Well, my next question is predictable: where to by lager radiator? I saw it on www.Montesa4RT.nl but no details.
I run the Engine Ice and it seems to work well for me in summer time out near Boise Idaho. My fan runs a bit more than my wife's Gas Gas, but not a lot more...
As for lean with the EFI... If your running one setup for the street with the O2 sensor or if you have a programmable TB with a custom map you could be running lean. If that isn't the case then the likely hood your lean is slim.
It is Full Power Kit. I'll try with Engine Ice first, hoping for the best. Many thanks for both of you guys, I'm a little bit less worried now.
My new bought used Montesa starts fan after few minutes of use even in cold weather, and fun works almost all the time. Could it be wrong thermo switch or something more serious? Previous owner has been riding her for two years but did not think of it as a problem.
). Thanks guys!
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Scorpa SY250F low band power mods
in Scorpa
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In other words, I'll better stay away? Honest advice, the last thing I need is endless adjusting. Thank you man.