ktmsprocket

Thanks Alan....Although we don't get much rain here....when we do...there is ALOT!!! We grab the opportunity to play with the bikes in it...and of course, I spotted that that breather hole will suck in mud and water the engine os hot and submerged (ie. air cools and contracts). Thanks for your help as always.

The Sherco 50 runs a little Polini motor. On top of the crankcase is what look like a breather......is it? and odes it normally have a pipe fitted to it? (we have a a new used one u see). Cheers. J.

Hi, We just bought an '04 Sherco 50. The sticker on the side of the perimater frame says 2% mix. I happen to be running 40:1 and we have the usual black drool.... Anybody using a light mix? Any comments please???

I'm new to this too. Am just about to take the plunge on 03 Sherco 290...anybody have any views? (...as I also have the option to buy an '03 Beta 270). which would u pick...both in good nick BTW. cheers. J.

Rockwool is spun molten rock - not to be mistaken for fibreglass insulation. In simple terms, rockwool doesnt burn, its the accelerants added to it that burn (same as any retardant packing). We put it in very hot two stroke mx bikes. No issues. We change it very frequently to keep performance up. Weight is reduced quite significantly too due to the build up of oil in old packing. Also, if you pressure wash your bikes you will find the packing becomes water logged which in turn can cause rust probs. Fibreglass can melt and ignite with accelerants added.

The clutch will "slip" if: 1. The clutch shoe material is exhausted 2. The clutch basket has been cooked 3. The clutch basket is slipping on the shaft. ie. special nut is loose or related prob. 4. The engine is running very hot and causes clutch spring fade 5. The clutch springs (or spring washers) have failed J.

Not if you've got a line of little KTM 50s in the workshop.....dribbly little suckers!!!! 8-)

Use the Rockwool based insulation. Costs peanuts and you get a huge bag the size of a person. Fold around a silencer baffle tube and tape with paper masking tape.

About the oil in the auto clutch. Use 250mL of any Dexron III ATF in the clutch. If it runs hot due to throttle blipping by the rider, add Two2Cool. Ignore the 150mL written on the case.

The Beta MiniTrial has the KTM 50cc MX engine (not same running gear). The Beta Rev 50 is a dedicated engine.

Something tells me the Gas Gas is popular!!! 8-) I will see if I can track one down here in Sydney - I think it'll be a longshot though... 8-(

My son is capable rider. The bikes are the right size....but which one would you buy? (and why?). cheers. J.

Prevention on new = proper washing, drying and wd40 as a chaser Maintainence of corroded = proper washing, CLR+steel wool (or wd40 + steel wool) and wd40 as chaser Corroded = get your wheels re-laced with new spokes!!! 8-( PS. I buy cheap and nasty no brand 'wd40' for A$2 bucks a can. After every bike wash i use about a 1/3 of a can on the bike. Keeps the gremlins out. I also use 1/3 of a can moments b4 we start any event...makes the cleaning easier and its A$2 bucks well spent!!!! (just keep it off those brake rotors by covering them with a clean rag b4 spraying - otherwise the rider gets a nasty surprise on the first bend.....whoaaaa!!!!)

I use stainless cap head screws from marine suppliers for some of these jobs, but remember, that cap head screws hold dirt....so if the screw is in a place that collects muck and needs to be worked on....normal slot screws or bolts are better.

Hey Rob, When we get our act together we'll get to meet you guys at some interstate event....will be good to pick your brains!!! cheers. J. ps. i've used that lever 'stand-off' before for the brakes on cable pull type. Sometimes i put a bucket load of cable ties in there!!! Sometimes I do the elegant thing and tap a 6mm hole in the perch and run a screw in there. Only the best for MoToToM you know!!! ;-)

Ah Bugger it....I made one myslef... Long screws on the outside compress the clutch. Short screws hold the two legs together (you need two separate legs cos you cant get a single tool in there).

Hi, Well I ended up building my own clutch compressor tool to get around the problem of trying to release the retaining ring... Took about two hours or so of measuring, cutting, bending, drilling, tapping, assembly.....and about 1 minute to dismantle the clutch!!!

Some insights for you....may help in your thinking... The KTM Mini Adventure engine in stock configuration idles beautifully, but once you put a larger pipe on it, the idle goes haywire. By changing the pilot circuit jet and fiddling with the idle and air screws you can obtain a steady but high idle. By increasing the idle, the centrifugal clutch begins to take up everso slightly. If the bike is on the ground you may not notice this. What then happens is that more fuel poors in, and the engine loads up and causes a minor bog. The bog and high idle work against each other and this can contribute to poor running as the throttle rolls on. If you put the bike on the stand with the engine running, the rear whell will spin if the clutch is engaging at idle. If you add a shim to each spring of the clutch, you will be able to increae the clutch stall speed and this will get rid of the bog. However, the clurch take up may become very slightly more aggressive. The more shims you add, the more aggressive and snappy it becomes. (In the MX config we use spring washers in a stack rather than coil springs). +++++++++++++++ From all of the posts I am getting the impression that the carb fitted by Beta is just plain wrong for that engine/reed/exhaust combo. The other concern is that someone mentioned a missing gasket between the cases halves???!!! If I owned one (and because I have the stuff in the workshop), I'd fit the KTM MA carb, reeds etc and see how it went... Hmmmm

Hmmm.... I have the cover off, but am not sure how to get the clutch apart. Do you need a special tool to compress the clutch so you can get that ring out?

Ok...so I should have asked first... I have the clutch cover off and was hoping to see the clutch springs held down by screw....but there is a plate with spring covers/retainers. The plate is held by a large ring that is very snug in against the basket. What next? Ease the ring out and watch the clutch fly apart? Get a magic tool that does it for me? (Seems like the plate is forced against the ring by the springs and therefore the clutch would need to be pressed in to allot eh removal of the ring) Help pleeeeezzzz...not seen this type before

The KTM 50cc engine uses a crankcase gasket. Part No. 45130039000 ENGINE CASE GASKET 50 LC 2001 If you go to say www.50ccparts.com and click on the link to get to KTM parts and follow your nose, you will find the part. As I don't have that bike and have not seen one I can't say 100% it is the same motor....but from photos....it looks the same. Can anybody confirm that this is the Beta AC or LC 50cc 3 shoes clutch motor??? If it is...that seal was not installed at the factory. All very odd...

You guys are just great. This advice is so helpful. Its a cable clutch and the stock lever is both long and big. Taking all the advice into consideration I will remove a couple of springs to reduce the cable tension and alter the stock lever to bring it closer. If I can;t get the travel, then I'll look at either a shorter lever, or other brand of lever. (I'd be surprised if I can get the Polini levers here).

I will. This weekend I'll be doing the final pre-season work on the KTMs for his MX and will get into that Beta at the same time. Its a nice little bike, but because I'm horribly fussy with the bikes I have to have everything just so before the season starts (its a curse I think). Funny thing about all this is, just when I thought I had learned all there was to know about little clutches (in the KTMs), here I go again!!!! Wouldn't have it any other way right????!!!!!

I'll give a go. As he is only learning, I suspect the clutch slip will not be an issue as he will not be 'gunning' it. Frankly, any slip he may induce may be a good thing in the short term!!! I haven;t dropped the gear oil yet...any suggestions. Would you go as lite as an ATF fluid? Remember - its not doing any hard work yet.

I wasn't sure what impact that might have on the operation. I've never done that...How many should I pull out do you think?