cascao

Wheel bearing driver

Anyone had tried Gaerne G.all terrain model? They are good? Need replacement to my Alpinestars and this one is cheaper. http://www.gaerne.com/boots/en/articolo/3/85/173/2530-013/brown/ Thanks

Wheel bearing extractor http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/motorcycle-wheel-bearing-remover-65091#post103242

This kind of "devices" appear from times to times and disappear before claims increase too much...they are around for decades and nobody had won races or had real (measurable) savings until today.

Try looking for c2162-60006 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-motor-HP-Carriage-Motor-Assy-C2162-60006-DD5O5830/231203808665?hash=item35d4d22599:g:fJQAAOxycD9TSvMu

This motors come from mabuchi. Just buy another and replace.

Important to know what really took to this bolt failture. (Shear, threads stripped off, overtorque, hidrogen inclusion, fadigue....) not all of them are manufacture fault. There is a fracture photo? Bolt grade?

Formula shock will hit market soon.

If everything fail, you can fit a 250 top end or a smaller carburator. Or machine a low comp head...

I can see a standard here. On enduro honda have the heaviest bikes too. It's cheaper to develop and produce. (Or you can develop and forget for decades)

In cars, ATF oil have to be changed in intervals like 100.000km. Why on motorcycles we have to change it after 100km or less???

Old ALP clutch master cylinder. Bigger shock PU bumper stops. Bigger carb float bow. Increased capacity radiator. Lead at bash plate to met FIM minimum weight

Remove philips bolts that hold the plastic part (in mine 2015 I need to remove the silencer not shure if you need too. Probably not) Using gloves, remove old fiberglass and clean (burn or wire brush) perfurated pipe. Put new fiberglass mat. Mount everything in place again. Use threadlock in silencer to frame bolts

Any oil: Engines have more compression life and power around 4% mix.... Trials engine doesnt get as hot (inside chamber) as high rev engines. So oil for trials can have lower flash point (this is related to unburned exhaust oil. And choosing oil ratio based on pipe spoonge without considering flash point can be a mistake ) It is important to have a safety margin on your oil ratio. There always a road or a big hill in our ride.

Update: there was a leak on base gasket near reed valve. Changed base gasked a month ago and no more two colors on same spark plug. Thank for everybody who posted here.

placebo effect switch. Tested it with a timming strobe and it act in ignition advance and give your engine a sligty softer behavior. But the effect is small on some engines. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkJQsVgMTLE

Yes.

You should be able to see some movimentation into radiator coolant when revving the bike. It's OK to have some expansion and coolant loss if radiator is completly full. But coolant should be over the fins after cooling. Is your gearbox oil milky? It's a sign of water contamination through pump seal. Another source of radiator problems is leakage in head O rings. Keep an eye open.

Updade: Managed to broke a rib in a competition two weeks ago while ridding my other sherco. (It was a hard enduro event with a trials class.) Back to Exhaust thing, rode the bike yesterday. Spend a gas tank in easyer trails and unpaved roads (since still have some pain). Bike run greath, can't put my gloved hand on exaust for more than 5 seconds but at least nothing melted. It's useable at least.

Will do this next week. Thank you.

Yes, there is. As pick up coil is fixed, there some effect in rotating the coils inside magneto? Didn't see any hall effect sensors in this ignition.

After this initial uphill trail failture I had doing my tests in a regular unpaved road most flat. Bike took about 5kms (3miles) to be at the point where rear fender start to melt. (Cruising at moderate speeds and load). The buddy bike whitch rode with me never get close to it. The heavy smoke has gone since everything inside exaust burned on first time.

If gasket is green, probably it uses mineral oil. If you put a drop of the original oil in water and it get white and mix, its dot.

Changed cylinder base gasket and no more leak. Rear pipe oil has burned on first time this hapened. Now there is not much smoke beside regular 2t smoke. No blocage at rear exaust. I will start to look at some weired ignition fault. Since everyelse look ok to me, bike run greath and exaust keep overheating when ridding at moderate speeds Pick up coil white/black 200 ohms. Blue/red 20 ohms. Anyone have hidria ignition specs and timming advance? Thank everybody for the help untill now. Lets keep ideas comming.

But this leak is a old thing and the overheating started on last ride and spark plug color seems ok, engine temperature ok, the heat is only at exaust.....?