cascao

sherco_top_end_maintenance_manual.pdftop end

sherco_engine_teardown_and_assembly_manual.pdf RYP manual for engine tear down

It is not as bad as picture formed in my mind after reading this. Yes, frame will have a smash from triple clamp contact. If it is too scary, it will need weld repair. If not, fit a pvc pipe section over it. Front brake and clutch(oem Formula) isn't good. Try negotiate a price discount. So, after all, if it bother you, you can change them. Good reliable motor, modern good front forks, tubeless rear wheel, easy parts availability, light manobrable front end....sherco bikes have beeing evoluting and 7 years will show improvement for sure.

Nice. no worn out bearings. Check your clutch. (Water can unglue discs friction material).

There are a good how to from RYP USA. Clutch holder aren't needed if you have a impact wrench (good for flywhhel nut too) or if you jam the gears with a rag or something like.

Put a quality nut on it https://www.splatshop.co.uk/steering-stem-nut-m24-x-1-0-blue.html

Mine goes with thicker part down

Pat Smage have a good instruction video about drop offs on his youtube channel.

Non O ring is better since there are much less drag

It you make them bolted to existing plate, you can develop 2 or 3 diffrent models and test

thanks. good channel.

At least with much better result than Vertigo.

They look greath with these neon-black sheme https://www.sherco.com/pt/moto/trial-fajardo-replica-4 and a front rim never neen before

Was navigating on net and found what seems to be a newer version of Mitas et 01 tire named Xpro with a softer rubber. Anyone know anything about? https://www.acesports.co.za/products/mitas-et-01-x-pro-trials

And there are gaerne goretex boots...

I belive all sherco's are 5

New to me but at least 300 years old slave made trail

Many times they are same quality as OEM with better price plus adding some bling

Use aluminium ou other soft material to clamp the axle. You will need a good clamp custom made for this stem diameter. Clamp the axle on the clevis nearest part. Where seals are less likely to go Heat can damage rebound screw O ring. Maybe you will need replace them It is a good opportunity to change or lub dust seal. Just pop the shock cap off.

Removing the bottom clevis shock doesn't lost gas pressure.

Same on enduro/MX. Ridding without chest protector is much better....if you don't fall.

I do not belive in KTM spending money in a new motor. Maybe some minor tweaks and (why not?) a tpi in a few years. Most likely to happen is Brembo brakes and (why not 2?) WP forks in a few years.

Stuck float? Clogged jet? If it wold me, I will clean carb, and check reed valve

My question.... has anyone tryed a longer bump stop? ...or rieger ones (Seems like rieger has red and blue with hardness choices)