Aluminium forks have smaller internal diameter.

Maybe top riders feel some difference on flex and some kind of dampening since steel forks can flex more. At least on frames, not everybody love aluminium.

 

It was over filled

Filling plug act like a level too

look maxxis trialmaxx. They are good crossover tires.

thanks for returning how situation ended. This is greath for knowlege base of this forum

 

Solid ride for Dabil so far...
Doug early day cost him a 5.

Saw someone ridding 100km in an enduro without oil...

4 hours ago, Wideopen said:

one more question...

my shock it's not licking and works well. Only the bumper disapppear. Destroyed by the years

Do you think it's possible to take apart the feet of the shock without depressurizing it, just to replace the bumper?

obrigado

Yes. You just need do unscrew shock bottom clevis (use heat to broke loctite and aluminium clamps to protect the shock stem)

It good practice change rebound bolt o rings due heat you used

Cut car bumper or buy new one from splat shop (gasgas bumper is sheaper than shercos)

It is not easy... but with a 10mm hex spanner, you can force the coil and mount it. Just like Jim's tool

Sherco+Scorpa 52.
Honda+Montesa 44

But...

Vertigo + Doug = 5 in a row?

9 hours ago, Wideopen said:

Ciao cascao, thank's for sharing your knowledge with your nice video. 

I' m gonna service the Sachs shock of my gg txt 280 2000 and I would like to know how many cm the air/gas piston separator should enter in the schock absorber body.

i can't see the measurement you made on your video. 

Cheers from Italy .

Thanks 

do not know how many they use from factory.

On shocks I reassembled used the rule below:

Meassure shock shaft lenght that goes inside shock body (estimated pu bumper half compressed) and increase a little (10mm)

bottom cone not seated propelly??? This fork need a completly disasembly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOPho-XoVds

First ride on trialmaxx and i'm impressed.

There exhaust options and you can bore the engine to 160cc

Can't see the matting surface on your photos.

With a sharpie pen, paint all conical axle surface. Put flywheel on place hold it while you spin the motor.

Paint should be removed / scrached on entirely surface showing good contact.

If not, use some abrasive paste (car popet valve grinding paste) or improvise with small sandpaper betweed both surfaces.

Turn virabrequim while hold flywheel  untill you have good contact patern.

I do a lot of hard trails and it is fun.

 

If cylinder head is ok, check water flow (plastic pump rotor or plastic gear failture led to this pressure issue too)

You can easly remove pump cover on right and see pump . Try spin it with you fingers

New gas cap

https://youtu.be/vovRknQiFCc

Newer ST's don't have pipe drain hole like first models. 

Oil can acumulate inside pipe if you ride for long periods slow. If after that, you ride it hard (uphill open trothle for long periods) it can ignite "gum oil" inside pipe and get very hot with a lot smoke. I think this hapened with me when bike melted rear fender.

Maybe backfire sheared the key.

Replace your spark plug and check connections, engine stop button, etc

125 has same stroke than 250cc?

If yes, you can study parts numbers and see what change.

 

14 minutes ago, rabie said:

i take it if you can't get michelin x lights or X11 and dunlop D803, you've tried Prielli MT43, IRC, and even Mitas ?

No. Only Michelin.

But have friends who tried pirelli (crap) and mitas (better).

Will give trialmaxx a try. 

The idea is use them on my ST300. There is no michelin or dunlop here now.

Can mount them without a tube?

They are bigger?

Any traction loss?

Thanks

Have someone tried Maxxis trialmaxx (KTM freeride OEM) tire on trial conditions yet?

https://www.maxxis.co.uk/catalog/tyre-533-11-trialmaxx

how do they hold?

in my sherco it is more like half turn from closed

https://youtu.be/VnpYMmsfRzw

Spare glove if there rain or mud.