chewy

Have to agree with Pete; Yours won't be the only centre with similar situation, gone are the days when best novice finshed on 100 plus marks, in some ways it's a shame that most riders now feel that losing more than 30/40 marks means the trial was too hard and not for them. There are pros and cons for how severe to make sections but for sure entrants will vote with thier choice of event to ride. Generally I'm all for improving the ability of all riders but how to do it? In the distant past (over 40 years ago) we used to have team events i.e neighbouring centres competitions (it could be inter club) where you had say an expert an inter and 3 novices (yes it was only one route through simpler sections) where it was in the interest of winning to keep the team score down.The experts passed on thier knowledge and experience, the novices got better. forgive me for wittering on but it is one of the fundamental issues in modern trials today.

Are you sure the master and slave cylinders are not "sticking" , I know nothing of Sherdco clutches , it may be that pushrod is too long, could it be that the springs have lost thier force... Regards not starting hot could be simple as a new plug or as painfull as mains seals, best thing is to go through the relatively cheap/obvious things first, plug coils, clean and set up carb. You can be sure of plenty of help and suggestions from Sherco owners on here.

exactly.. how many of the worlds allegedly best riders have ridden the scott or the ssdt for that matter. its my great hope ( having booked my accomodation this weekend) that messers bou raga et al may grace fort william this may.. Surely IF they did come it would mean having to work harder than usual which would mean a contractual problem undoubtedly causing cost of bikes to rise etc etc. It would be nice for these "top" riders to do something other than what they are contracted to do, it would be nice if they just turned up "quietly" like Cabastany did last year and enjoyed the trial for what it is. Personally after 10 years of avoiding Sherco's and running Beta's I have changed to Sherco this year and wonder if all the issues raised above have had some subliminal affect on my decision making.

Very European

Good jump poor choice of adjectives in commentary.

Excellent set of pics noticably the common thread between them all is the effort the riders are all makimng;.. classic Scott atmosphere.

It's a case of horses for courses surely; I recently went riding in the mountains of Andorra, first day set off with an IRC ( the must have tyre of choice where I live and normally ride)at c 6 psi,.... 50 kilometeres and it was shredded, I put a michelin X11 on that night and it ran fine for four similar days but it was quite an eye opener to find the relative "hardness" as you change altitude, what I.m saying is that the pressure outside the tyre affects its performance as much as the pressure inside, its just another factor to keep in mind when settin up your tyres.

Thanks guys all you said rings true , there was no marking re stator plate position, I moved as copemech said c.2mm on periphery and it did make some difference so I went another 2 degrees, immediatly the notor ran smoother ( essential for me and the going around here) I was able to refine carburation better as well, all I need to do now is try it in "anger". regards runnimg at tickover ; it's a bit subjective regarding speed of tickover, After 40 years of trials competion and countless bikes my (dare I say forte) is finding grip off the bottom end for that I need motor to stay alive at lowest possible revs, As it was it would just "go out" (stop with a kick;..a backfire not really but back wheel trying to reverse as it stopped) .. you had to keep throttle open to keep moving which made un neccesary challenges in sections even using clutch. I can stall it now but it doesn't kick like it was. Elsewise the bike is well sorted , it steers well, even I can hop both ends with reasonable predictability, brakes perfect,clutch actation is sweet ; first bike I have had for many years to have a sweet clutch out of the box, very serviceable, I have made a mudflap to protect rear suspension links a bit, I dont think the back mudguard is as good as it could be for actually keepimng mud away (It came with the non homolugated rear mudguard with no rear light and holes where you "sit") I assume they are there for good reason (to let some heat away from exhaust maybe) pointless in the conditions we frequently have as the mud off your ass will get pushed in/through. Motor is really tight at moment with no annoying mechanical rattles, I moved the engine mapping switch to behind front light ( I leave it on soft at all times anyway), I have an interest in footpegs but standard cast & machined ally ones are nice with a prpoer bush setup rather than a spacer to mount the spring. Swinging arm is really narrow/really nice, I havn't messed with fully adjustable suspension setup as it it god for me (this may have been due to Steve Saunders doing the PDI?). It occurs to me that other new owners of new models should report on thier bikes. Thanks again for the reassurance guys.

thats the response I was hoping for thanks Baldilocks. Any other little "foibles"/fixes would be well recieved.

Just bought new Sherco ST250 delighted with it so far but have never had a Sherco before, everything works fine exept for its propensity to stall, I noticed that when it does this it tries to run backwards so I have retarded the ignition by about 4 deg. it seems better (on the drive) and runs much smoother, question/concern is that it may run a bit hotter,has anybody found same problem and cure? A mate said only use 98 octane fuel, bottom gear seems high compared to 6 speeders which sort of highlights any bottom end sputtering issues, As I say I think I have sorted it now but have no chance to try it in anger untill next wekend any pointers appreciated.

Malheureusment j habit a bristol a peu pres 700 k sud d ecosse. normalment je commisaire seulment le 6 jours et esseyer prend petit vacance avec camping car a la cote de nord west ecosse cest magnifique. Je connais pas John Maxfield cest clear il est un gentleman. d accord le meteo mais cest ecosse natural 4 seasons dans un jour. a plus aussi Chris ( tout le mond en france M apell Lucky Luke ( un loin histoire )

Agrreed a 200 is much easier to ride Have had four twixt me and the missus in last 3 years There a nice evo 200 at BVM just 1 year old.

bonjour Jean marc et bien venu au notre forum. Je parle Franglais avec tout les gros mots ,mauvais pronounciation et tout comme ca, Je fait moto trial modern , je suis tojours en ecosse (commisaire aujourd hui) j ai fait tout les classics en france en annee passe , le verdon , le Averon, Geuret et chaque fois super bonne bien venu. Naturalment jai fait boucoup des amis trialist Francais, J espere c est le meme pour vous ici et en Ecosse. Est ce que tu le fada Jean Marc qui rule un BSA nous avons racontre aux Vessoul cet annee avec Craig? Si tu a besion de quelques chose ecrit ici et je essyer aider.

gracias = thanks horquilla = forks avance =front? or advance?

WHO

Thats shame he'd have been a good candidate for a trials riding "scratch " band I knove steve moore is into bands & blues , I bags playing bass, so probably only would have needed a drummer and keys man.

Hello Stevie wellcome ; you'll need to give a clue as what area you live in , there are literally hunfreds of clubs and you can join as many as you like but obviosly best to find one local to you. Otherway to find it is to google Auto Cycle Union or ACU or AMCA trials. Have you tried cleaning up the underside of the motor and just having a look to see where oil is coming from? choices are; loose drain plug, crancase joint, clutch cover or a seal on the gearbox sprocket, I havn't had a gas gas for several years but cant think of any other possibles off top of my head.

first stop a new plug must be tried

I wouldn't think 18 /40 to 17 '40 was too big a change in ratios, you would have a job (probably ) to change clutch basket /?teeth so why not ry it?

It's not a job I do every day but have you tried the following; a syringe and rubber tube to fit over the bleed nipple, make sure you have the pistons out as far as possible so that you can get as much fluid in as possible, with the caliper "on the bench" with the inlet hole for brake hose at highest point use syringe pump in via opened bleed nipple until fluid comes out ofhose hole, close nipple , disconnect syringe. Then mount it or bring master cylinder & hose to it and connect up. If you now have to push the pistons back in to get it and the pads over the disc you will be pushing solid column of fluid up the hose, resume the "pressure" by pushing fluid in via bleed nipple untill you have solid fluid coming out into the master cylinder resevoir, be sure the piston in the master cylinder is right back before you do this. When you get solid column you can "bleed/tweak" master cylinder by just lightly flicking the lever not pulling it right in yet;..normally you will see some bubbles in the resevoir as you do this, you should then be able to pump the brake lever to bring the pistons /pads to work on the disc. I hope you get it going and that somebody with other experiences comes on to offer you help... (because if this doesn't do it I'm stumped)....good luck

not sure if it was "your" forum item (last week somebody had same problem) but I think one of the reasons for using brake fluid is that in the process of fitting the new seals/pistons you prime the void behind it with brake fluid. I would have thought that so long as you are pushing fluid into this space ( in this case the front brake calliper) and it can come out again;.. i.e in the hose hole and out of the bleed nipple or vice/versa, it would bleed/fill up solid with fluid. I cant imagine a bit of washing up liquid being a serious problem to achieve this ( i.e ;.. I reckon you need to get the calliper primed /full of fluid before final bleeding), sorry to witter on but it's a tricky thing to write down.

1 Litre isn't enough is my thoughts on bolt on hebo type tank like most I use old oil mix bottles or carbonated drink bottles which make good funnels also, those blow moulded tanks look usefull, probably expensive to get from USA to UK though.

Is the problem getting the seals to go in without cutting them on the cylinder edges? if so why not make up a tool like a piston ring clamp, sorry if I got wrong impression of your troubles, it seems the other replies here refer to not being able to prime behind the pistons with brake fluid;.. I suppose the trick ther would be to only just engage the pistons (all in like that and then ease them in to fully prime the void behind the pistons.

It may not be relevant but I had a similar problem whilst on holiday I had front brake sticking on (on a 10 monthold bike Evo) As we were living out of our camper van not too many tools etc available we ended doing all the usual stuff ; pads out wang the lever , jam ou the cyliders that looked to be sticking, wd 40 , etc etc in the end I reluctantly pulled the piston from the master cylinder , no apparant problems but it was sticking on return, greased it etc, still same problem, eventually I removed the O ring seal from master cylinder piston cleaned underneath it carefully with a tissue , turned it around reasembled and bobs your uncle it worked fine. Bizarre as there appeared to be no dirt under it. After loads of messing about this took about ten minutes to chech and do; ... it may be worth a look at that end too.

This guy wasn't convinced