wanariot

cheers Carl I think I will order a few and experiment...... PS. I' ve Been planning a snowboard trip to Sweden for years and I'm guessing if you ride trials you do winter sports? If you know your ski areas where would you recommend? Cheers, sorry for going off piste!

My beta 2008 250 4t runs too rich once over 2/3rds throttle, I suspect the main jet is too big.(lowering the needle does not work). I ride at up to 1000 above sea level. Does anyone know what the standard main jet size should be or more to the point, what size main jet does this bike need to run right? Also where can I get them from? (please don't recommend the uk beta dealers because they just don't want to know) Cheers

Good, the story goes on..........and have beta come up with a mod kit yet,,,,, errr no. But I did eventually sort mine, and it was nothing to do with lack of patience....(ledref1) . or my methods. I had replaced the master cylinder and after about 60 hours in the garage trying to get it to bleed i realised Lampkins had sent me the wrong one. Anyone struggling with their rev 3 rear brake needs to make sure you have the CORRECT master cylinder as they look identical on the outside but the internals are different. PLEASE NOTE; THE 4 POT REAR BRAKE UP TO AND INCLUDING YEAR 2004 HAS A MASTER CYLINDER WITH AN INTERNAL DIAMETER OF ABOUT 10MM. AFTER 2004 WHEN A 2 POT REAR CALIPER WAS USED, THE INTERNAL DIAMETER OF THE MASTER CYLINDER WAS ONLY ABOUT 6MM. WHICH MAKES SENSE. THE LATER WILL NOT WORK ON THE FORMER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! TIP; Use the correct hydraulic compatable grease (coloured red) to assist in fitting your pistons/seals in your caliper. Its better than brake fluid, things slide in easier, think KY gel ! !

Put the kettle on, pour boiling water on da hub and they will drop out with a light knock with suitable tool. Also make a brew while you are at it, I prefer weak tea with no sugar, but that all depends on your riding style, i prefer to keep my feet down as it prevents wear on the footpegs.

My 04 beta 200 starts and runs fine untill you get past 3/4 throttle and then it starts missing i.e. 4 stroking and sounding like the choke is on, anything but crisp and correct. Ive cleaned out the carb, fitted new kill switch, check all electrical contacts but no joy. Any suggestions ?

Hi Spikey, I ride trials and enduro, but use a husky 250 for enduros. There nothing to say you cant ride a trials bike in any UK enduro provided its safe to pass scrutineering and road legal if need be. MX bikes dont pass scrutineering sometimes for being too loud. BUT trials bikes are very handy for doing enduros and often wish I was on my beta when I get stuck. Heres the REAL truth theres no such thing really as an enduro bike, we end up using what are basically MX bikes with lights on because thats what the manufactures make because its much more profitable for them to do that. A proper enduro bike would be somewhere inbetween 'enduro' and trials, but the size of the market doesn't make it add up. But we all rush out and buy these 'enduro' bikes because we think thats what we need, they look sexy, we think we can handle it but most of us struggle when the going gets tough, where a trials bike would p*** it. Heres a true story for you all................ my mate plays rugby and he is a well 'hard case' in man terms. he goes out buys a gas gas enduro and confidently enters his first event. He lasted about 12 miles, about 3/4 of a lap, came home and promised never to do an enduro again! ! ! Maybe if the bike was easier to live with he may have continued. The thing that really screws enduro bikes is the seat height. Most guys that ride enduro bikes probably dont realise what a pain this is as they dont know any different. Granted if you are **** hot its not a problem, but most aren't. But spikey your biggest problem with a trials bike is ground clearance. if the event you enter has ruts they are likely to be alot deeper than a trials can handle. your bike will end up resting on its pegs with the back wheel spinning around. Have Fun! ! ! PS Get husky 250 2 stroke................totally wicked. Peter Houghton. Lancashire, England. ( land of proper enduros and trials ) PPS your ACU trials registration will not cover you for enduro / MX or in fact any other event than trials. So that will be another

Good idea scorpa 250,might just do it. Still struggling with mine, I now think the problem lies with air trapped in the caliper ( Mine is 04 model with 4 piston caliper , is yours the same?) because of the internal shape/ position of bleed nipple and in particular the narrow port where the o-ring seats, make getting the air out difficult to say the least. Let us know how you get on. Might try this next; remove caliper/remove bleed nipple/hose and SUBMERGE the whole caliper into a bath of brake fluid to make sure its 100% full and reconnect to system without letting any air into system. MERRY CHRISTMAS PS make sure you dont trap the res feed pipe when refitting the master cyl. GOOD LUCK.........MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU.

I have tried Ians method on page one and things have improved a bit, now the system is about 50% effective. I now think that scropa 250 and I have been supplied 'dicky' parts. ( I have noticed that 08 rev 3's have slightly different rear brake pedal that allows a longer stroke with the master cyl rod as the hole the rod locates into is further from the pivot point)

Hi all, Scropa 250 if you have the system on the bench make sure you put both bolts through the caliper otherwise you are effectivley forcing the caliper apart when bleeding which may explain your damp patch ( you will need a spacer for the longer bolt ) Having said that I still cannot my rear brake to bleed/be affective, the best I can get is about 20% effective. I have tried; Bleeding using bike own lever/rod (correctly adjusted) bleeding using suitable bar direct into master cyl ( to get longer stroke, as reccommended by lampkins) Removing whole system and lowering/raising to get the air out Back bleeding from the caliper with syringe Gravity bleeding ( raise caliper to same height as res and open bleed valve and remove res cap) Tried 3 diferent lots of brake fluid New brake pads Fitted new master cyl fitted two new sets of seals and pistons to caliper ALL THE ABOVE DONE MANY TIMES........................AND STILL NO JOY Stork 955 Have tried everything you have suggested but no differnce. Any other ideas. ( I am now going to try pulling my hair out )

I've had a brake specialist look at my 04 rev 3 rear brake system, he reckons the new seals are at fault in the caliper as they are too tight a fit and do not allow the pistons to push and return freely which contribute/start the overheating process. The recesses for the seals where clean before fitting. There has to be some fundamental design flaws in this system with the number of people who have on going problems and maybe this is one of them. Does anybody know of any upgrade kit?

Try adjusting the air screw which is on the right of the carb towards the air box.This adjusts the amount of air going into the mix and the more you screw it out , the more air will go in. Try screwing it out to weaken your mix, worked a treat on mine, its run perfect ever since.

Hi scropa 250, I too am having exactly the same problem, Ive had beta rev3's for 6 years and this is their No1 problem and why some off road/engineering firm hasn't come up with a mod kit is beyond me,,,,,,,,,,,,why is it the off road market is so full of s@hit like noisey exhausts yet you can't buy want you really need,,,,,,,,is there anybody out there?????? Anyway mustn't grumble,,,,,,,,,,,,cant expect brakes to work to the year 2008. True; you do need plenty of meat on your rear pads to get the brake to work well once they are half worn replace them, and there my friends lies the problem, the bike industry loves selling profitable items so why would they want a decent brake set up that gets a reasonable wear out of your pads???? BUT i do find I can put well worn pads in the virtually identical front brake with no problem ( year 2000 to 2004), so use them there and get your moneys worth. What happens is this; rear brake usually get more covered in crap and we tend to use it more than the front so it gets hot. Once the pads are part worn they are not capable of obsorbing the heat due to lack of mass and the brake overheats and goes all weak and floppy, similar to when your watching Racheal Stevens on strickly come dancing. BUT this doesnt explain the not being able to bleed the brake problem, I ve pumped about a litre through mine with no joy. Ive tried removing the master cyl and lying it flat with the caliper and reservoir higher ( too avoid the 'raised' section off the brake line) and pumping the master cyl with suitable tool (whilst thinking of Racheal Stevens) but still no joy. I have now taken complete brake system to brake speciallist and will report on his findings soon. P.s. i have fitted new caliper seal kit and another master cly and still no joy. The thing is even when this brake is working they are still s@hit. I only realised how S@hit they are when I rode a pre 65 BSA with a standard rear drum brake, fantastic power and feel, weve spent 40 years going backwards.