fivemeister

From the test I notice they have changed the positioning of the CDI. Its now higher and covering the carb with what appears to be a rubberised shroud.

Why not?

This weeks Trials and MX news - test of the EVO 4T......... http://www.tmxnews.co.uk/content_database/...o_4t/index.html

Seen more furious and futile attempts at starting a gas gas than any 4T.

Trying an NGK Iridium plug (CR7EIX) and first impressions are good. Easier and consistent starting (no hot start lever ever required) more stable tickover.

Seconded. Don't let anyone tell you a 4T is hard to start. Once you 'have the knack' it really is that easy. Nice steady push through (rather than a jab) is all it takes.

....cough.....I agree.....cough........entirely....... It can't be healthy gobbling those fumes, especially in confined spaces likes gullies and trees. PS Why DO the youngsters feel the need to sit there revving the knackers off their bikes for ten minutes whilst qeueing? Has no one taught them about mechanical sympathy?

Quietest stock bike of the moment has to be a new Beta Evo 4T.

Its an empty post simply to refresh the thread - bring it back to the fore.

Don't worry, It was only a joke mate (B40RT has been taking the mickey about the technology incorporated in modern bikes)

Nothing to worry about - common with large capacity 'thumpers' and twins. Its the ignition of excess unburnt fuel introduced when doing what you describe (and sometimes made worse by an air leak into the exhaust system - like if you had the system apart then didn't seal it properly) My BMW R1150GS was a bugger for it - scared the bejeesus out of many a blue rinse waiting at the bus stop. Found one to watch with this bike though. The engine breather exits into the bottom of the air box. After a big off and the bike being upside down - then going down a steep hill, my bike began popping and farting all over the place. I later discovered the engine had spat some oil out of the breather into the bottom of the airbox and this must have then been pulled / poured through the carb when going downhill causing the popping and banging. Worth checking if ever you have a big off.

.It only happened because I had selected the wrong mapping choice - far too aggressive for the hazard. Plugged it into the laptop afterwards for a full health check, and she turned out to be fine.

Its a sickening feeling though isn't it - watching the pride and joy tumbling away into apparent destruction. I managed two trials from new before mine was christened - rearing up at the top of a steep hill before company was parted and it headed downhill at max revs - destined to kill at least three riders walking the section - before two small trees halted its progress and held it suspended upside down. Great sport.

:-)

1. Check several hours from new for bedding in changes then check every 60 hours. 2. Reduced performance / poor starting / increased mechanical wear. 3. They don't change a lot generally, but performance as above can be affected dramatically by even small maladjustments. They can change through use by wear and tear / vibration / general mechanical movement etc.

Anyone checked / adjusted the valves yet? I understand that on the REV4 you had to tilt the engine forward - what's the story with the EVO? Anyone have clearance spec?

Can't see it. If there had been any (never mind 'many') such faults, Im sure we'd have heard about it.

Only difference I can see is the extra low down torque / power of the 300. It's quite civilised really until you spin it up and then it wants to pull your arms out of the sockets and the front wheel lifts easily. (3rd gear big climbs are a blast) I think its same as any big capacity trials bike, go for the 250 if you are an inexperienced rider (which will do pretty much everything the 300 can with less chance of getting caught out with the extra oomph) I'd reckon any half decent novice would find the 300 OK

Thanks John. I like to insure my trials bikes fully comp so that I can use them to use short sections of road to local practice spots without resorting to a trailer - and in case the beast is stolen or otherwise damaged.

Odd one here - despite having my rev 3 insured with EBIKE for a year, I tried to insure my new EVO and because the model wasn't listed on thier drop down bike selection menu they said they would look into it and later replied that they wouldn't insure it cos it wasn't road legal??? Despite my protests about its legality and that it was same as the rev3 they were already insuring me on - they said the decision was final and sorry?? The bike is registered and taxed. WTF? Anyone else had a problem insuring a new model?

http://www.dansmc.com/IGNITIONTIMING.html

Why?

Handlebar (from adjacent to the clamp) to trailer - security wire around both front and rear wheel to the trailer (stops the bike bouncing and secures it to the trailer in the unlikely event of the straps breaking) I use non ratchet straps and pull them tight alternative sides until the forks are about 80% compressed. Yes there is obviously some stress on fork springs and seals, but this is the traditional system of trailer 'tying down' using the suspension action. I have seen some trailers designed not to use any tie downs, these use slots to place the front wheel into and then a rear 'ramp' which folds over the rear wheel trapping it securely and using an arm and pin to fasten in place.

Thats not what it is and you know it. The switch merely alters the engine response characteristics to suit the rider or conditions. Its no different to tweaking your bike with a slow throttle / flywheel weight or ignition timing etc etc. Its something riders have done to their bikes since year dot, except that now technology makes it easier - thats all. Riders will still have to find traction using their skill, no matter how the bike is set up.