smarty156

So the top yoke sits on top of this locking nut (the raised bit in the centre sits inside the hole in the yoke to help centre it). The top nut then goes into the stem and should tighten against the yoke and hold it tight to the locking nut. However, as the locking nut is too long it's coming up against the raised centre part of the locking nut before it tightens down onto the yoke. There's nothing you can adjust as the thickness of the yoke is what determines how far the nut can be threaded down. The attached pic is the old one before I removed it. Looking at the old top nut it looks like this was filed down to the right length too. All very weird.

Surely this can't be right though?

My father in law has a lathe so I can get him to do it for me but it still doesn't explain why the correct part number doesn't fit.

Having fixed my fork yokes and replaced head bearings etc, I went to put everything back and have hit an issue. I ordered a new top nut as the previous owner had severely damaged the old one. However, despite being the correct GasGas part and having now ordered 2 from different places, the top nut is wrong. Basically it's about 2mm longer than the one that came out which means it hits the retaining nut before it tightens down onto the upper fork yoke. I've taken a photo side by side with old versus new so you can see. I've measured the space between the retaining nut and the top yoke and it's about 15mm so there's no way the new nut can work and there's nothing you can do to make it more. What gives? Suggestions?

Cheers. I replaced the bearings because the fork yoke was cracked. I'm going to be doing them up carefully! What's the torque setting for the yoke bolts?

So it seems you do need the washer still. In fact, there were 2 washers on there originally, despite the parts diagram only showing 1. I think it needs both. So, I'll hopefully have that sorted later and can put it all back together. Any tips for replacing everything (both yokes, forks etc). When I took it all apart I removed front wheel and forks first, then undid the top nut and removed yokes. I was thinking I'd need to put the bottom yoke on and do that up with the lock nut then put the top yoke on and do the top nut up gently, then put forks and front wheel in to get it lined up and finally do up the top nut. Sound ok?

By the way, John Shirt Motorcycles (as they are no longer GasGas UK) are actually open. They are responding to emails and sending parts out. They just don't have enough people to man the phones.

Thanks

I got a new fuel tank heat shield sticker to replace the non-original, falling apart one on my 2014 Racing plastic tank. Does anyone have a picture of where exactly it needs to be positioned (or can take a picture and post for me)? Thanks

Just a quick question on the lower head bearing. The original has a washer, then an O ring and then the lower head bearing. I've bought some Xiu-RDI bearings that come with a seal (kind of like a washer with a rubberised lip). Question is - does the new bearing and seal mean I no longer need the separate washer and o ring? There's nowhere for the O ring to seat so seems fairly obvious it no longer needs that but what about the washer? Here's a link: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-sealed-steering-head-bearings-32004.html

I've also found that they start easier if the wet/dry switch is set to the dry setting. There's a definite knack to starting them though. Having said that, I have a friend with a 2018/19 bike (think it's 19 but can't remember) and his bike is difficult to start for some unknown reason too.

If you mean the screw that is supposed to stop the top nut coming loose, see my earlier post re the Gorilla that was the previous owner.

Quick question, the nut on top of the stem holding the top yoke is quite thin. Can you get a socket (30mm) that sits on it fully? My socket doesn't seem to fully seat and I'm slightly worried it would damage it if it slips.

Haha. Well, my father in law is going to do it for me if i send him the parts (he's an engineer). Good news is I get everything apart and off the bike. Unfortunately, the gorilla that was the previous owner has damaged the stem and stripped the thread on the stem nut retainer screw. So, because he'd done that he screwed right through the nut AND the stem! Which meant the thread on the stem was damaged and it was quite a struggle to get the castle nut off the stem. Which means I definitely need a new stem and retaining nut plus there's now no thread on the nut retaining screw. Hoping father in law will re-tap it and put a larger screw in. Some people shouldn't be let loose on bikes. I'm not a mechanic (hence all my questions) but I do at least find out how to do something and then get the right tools to do it.

Thanks for your replies. Just waiting to see if my father in law has anything suitable to fit new stem. If not, it's either a case of me waiting until lockdown is lifted and finding somewhere friendly with a press or buying one for about £100. Any ideas what else I can use a hydraulic press for to make it worth while? ?

I have my nice shiny new lower clamp now, so I've done some research and watched some videos. I'm thinking it may be simpler if I leave the steering stem and bearings in the old lower clamp (given how difficult it seems to be to remove the stem and bearings) and just get a new stem with new bearings for the new clamp. That way I don't need a press to remove the stem/bearings and I'll be replacing the bearings anyway. Or would I still need a press to install the new stem? If I need a press can I get a cheap one? Where from in the UK? Only problem is, can't seem to find anywhere to buy a new stem. Will try John Shirt if this is a sensible option. In the mean time, is it easy enough to get the new bearings onto the stem? Do I need any special tools? I see Laser do this: https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5168 For removing the races from the headstock, do I need the Sealey puller like this: https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192210/motorcycle-steering-stem-bearing-race-removal-tool I did see a video where they knocked them out like wheel bearings - is that safe? Is there a tool for the lock nut? Sorry for all the questions. Just thought while I had plenty of time to do it at the moment now would be a good time but I have limited facilities.

So if I manage to find someone with a press (not possible at the moment during lockdown but in the near future!), what's the procedure? Thanks.

Clamp lower (it's cracked around one of the pinch bolts). I don't have a press. Can I use something else?

I need to replace the lower fork clamp on my 2014 Racing GasGas. So, how do i do it and what tools do I need? Is it going to be one of those 'harder than it looks jobs'? Many thanks.

I bought the Xiu-Rdi Kevlar clutch pack from SplatShop: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-steel-and-friction-clutch-plates.html Not cheap at £130 but well worth it. I also got the Xiu-Rdi clutch bearing plate as well while I was at it.

Just to come back on this, I did have an issue with the clutch that I'd been trying to resolve for a while now. I was asking about the lightness and changes to the 2019 clutch for info as I was going to be changing things anyway. My issue was that when releasing the clutch quickly (like launching at a step) there would be a momentary delay (sometimes) between releasing the clutch and the clutch actually engaging. Well, long story short, discovered the top hat was quite rough, as was the recess in the clutch basket that it goes into. Sorted both and while i was at it changed to Kevlar clutch plates. Clutch is now very light and it bites much better than before. Love the Kevlar plates. Take lots of abuse and not had to adjust the bite point once. Just in case it helps others.

Yes. Multiple times. The 2019 has a thinner spring so it makes sense that it would be a lighter clutch wouldn't it?

Ok. I'll try and speak to GasGas UK to see what they think. I know the plates are different as they are Kevlar in the 2019 but I think it's just a material change.

Could you just put the 2019 spring and adjustable preload ring into a 2014 bike or would it not work? Is there anything else different? I know the clutch cover is also different. I wonder if the slave cylinder is different as well? Changing a few clutch parts would be a lot cheaper than buying a new bike!

Clutch is bang on spec. I've spent hours playing around with the clutch and tried all sorts of different things. There's no way a 2014 clutch would ever be as light as a 2019. The 2019 has different parts. Have you tried one?