racehunter

I don't know how I missed the reply. Just about to send you a PM

Only picture I have at the mo. Can you tell from this?

I am trying to put an age to a Cota 200. Is anyone able to decode the frame/engine number? Thanks

I finally got round to phoning Beta UK and have to say, they couldn't have been more helpful. I now know that all of the replacement stator packs on the shelf, have only a single yellow wire as the power source, so nothing to worry about, apart from making everything nice and tidy. I will ensure that I provide a good earth, probably to one of the coil mounting bolts.

Thanks. I had read that comment somewhere else, but back in 2009, 'Fergush' posted on this thread about light removal and as the instruction was quoted as being from Lampkins, I though all would be well. Trouble is, the instructions are next to useless, if the wiring had previously been messed with by the equivalent of a 3 toed sloth wearing welding gauntlets! I think now it would be best to talk to Lampkins and see what they say about the mess.

So much for my bike that doesn't need much doing! I decided to remover the front light unit and fit a new 'yamaha YZ' style kill switch. Having read a couple of posts on the topic, I didn't really expect any problems last night, however that was somewhat shortsighted of me...... Once I started to try to pull the wiring out of the R/H side of the tank bung, it became very clear that the wiring had been somewhat botched. I expected to see a number of connectors that could be simply unplugged to allow the light unit to be taken away, but what I found was groups of wires twisted together and insulated with either heat shrink tubing of tape. In some cases, the wires were of different colours. Time to get the wiring diagram out of the handbook to trace things, but then another problem. The wires out of the generator do not match the wiring diagram. The 2008 model diagram I have in the handbook, shows 2 yellows coming out along with a white, a black, a red and a blue, whereas mine has a single yellow, a brown, a red and a black. This looks the same as shown in a 2006 handbook. I am convinced the bike is a 2008, but has it had an earlier stator fitted? I have attached a picture showing the wiring once eased out of the bike. You can see how the single yellow charging wire was poorly connected to a a single spade coupler which is then connected to a blue wire that feeds into a small bunch of blues, along with a yellow, which goes down towards the fan motor. Now I know the blue wires feed/fed the lights and horn and these are coming out, and I also know that yellow has to feed yellow for the fan to work, however the SWG of the feed from stator is much greater than the wire to the fan motor. Is this correct of has a lighter wire been fitted to the fan? Any suggestions would be appreciated with regards to the wiring and the generator/stators. It will be nice and tidy as well as secure when I have finished. I hate bodged wiring

Well, I can confirm that there is definitely no boss on the lower yokes of my '08 Rev, to work with lock stop screws, so perhaps this was a 'weight saving' mod! As for the cable guide, I ordered one from Lampkins on Saturday afternoon and it arrived on Tuesday. It was only £3:31 with free P&P and its now fitted and doing its job. I have to say that I am very impressed with the service from John Lampkin Imports. If only every supplier was the same........

Thanks for the replies. I have seen the dome heads on earlier Rev 3's but on mine I cannot remember any boss on the lower yoke that would mate up with such bolts. I am not in the workshop again until Tuesday evening, so will double check then. From memory the only boss is for the front light plate and its not big enough. With regards to the cable guide, I have found the part number and ordered one. Only a few quid, so quite happy

Hi all. I have been a member of this site for a couple of years now, due to a restoration project on an Aprilia Climber 280, which is nearing completion. However, I have now bought a very nice, road registered, 2008 Rev 3 250, which appears to need very little. Considering the last time I rode a trial was in 1980 on a Montesa UKR 348, I think a bit of practice is called for! I do have a couple of questions though. The cable guide that sits behind the handlebar clamps is split and missing the rear section. I assume they do wear out, but is it worth replacing or is there another solution? Also I do not see any lock stops even though there are threaded bosses on the frame. No sign of anything on the lower yoke for anything to contact on so unsure as to what is correct. Thanks in advance Steve

Hi Ross, The info I have is that the standard front sprocket was an 11 tooth and that's what I have fitted with a 42 rear. The 10 was an option.

I actually picked up a second hand shock just to keep the build process going. In time I will pull the other one apart and rebuild properly. For reference I made up a pair of aluminium blocks to hold the shaft which enabled me to get the fork off, but that's as far as the strip down went.

No problem. Yes I agree in theory that a damaged or missing o ring in the cover would cause a problem, but that would only be down to the previous owners lack of skill/awareness. That said, loose disc valve cover screws would cause the same result. Good luck

Hi Ross, Years ago, I worked for the SWM importers, so my knowledge is mainly of the aircooled motors. That said, the bottom end was pretty similar. I can recall only one time where a l/h crank seal caused a problem and that was a spin off from a mains failure. If I remember correctly, not only did it smoke more, it also ran like a pig at bottom of the rev range and there was also evidence of blow thorough in the clutch case. I also remember that we ran at 100:1 mix using some 'witches brew' 2 stroke oil that Century/Fuchs provided. Be interested to know what you find. What year is your Climber?

Unless the crank cases have been split, its unlikely to be the centre joint. Just out of interest what oil/petrol ratio have you mixed?

OK, the handlebar mounted kill switch is fed from CDI terminal 1 and should be blue/black trace. The other 3 CDI terminals, fed from the generator are: 2 = Brown 3 = Red 4 = White This is on a '93 Climber 280 If you want the schematic, let me have an email address. Steve

I am sure it is, but I will check the wiring diagram when I get home and confirm. Steve

A quick update! Well, I thought I had a great answer to the problem as I bought another set of second hand legs online. These had badly pitted chrome, but the idea was to strip them out and use the aluminium adjuster rod in my forks. Trouble was that these legs did not have any visible 'clicker' screw in the top cap and when pulled apart, the damper cartridge was totally different. Not a good buy methinks. So, that left me with no option but to make a new threaded adjuster for the original forks and rebuild, which I have now done and apart from a problem getting dust seals that actually fit into the aluminium outer housing, alls well. I have become pretty intimate with this version of the Foral forks during the time, but hope they don't have to come apart again for a while!

Understand what you are saying, but the fork looks poor so thought I would blast it and paint and in the fork body is a slot through which I can see the push rod that operated the rebound adjustment but its not connected in any way to the adjuster ring which screws onto the lower part of the fork body (if you see what I mean!!) If you look at the picture of the shock taken when still on the very poor bike, the arrow points to the adjuster ring under which is the slot in the fork end assembly, where the rebound adjuster rod is visible. Clear as mud? Steve

So, in addition to the front fork issue, I now need to strip out the rear shock. Again, I cannot find any information about this unit and the only identifier is the Aprilia logo in the lower aluminium casting. It looks a little like a Paioli unit, but cant be sure. Does anyone have anything useful that might help me? I am assuming that the shaft needs a pair of aluminium split blocks clamped to it to remove the end fork. There are no lock nuts anywhere and additionally there is no link between the rebound adjuster ring and the rebound adjuster rod that runs through the damper shaft. Ideas please but not on a postcard.....

Craig, thanks for the offer, but Stratford upon Avon is not that close! I do agree that it doesn't look too taxing to replicate, so that probably will be my next step.

Thanks. I have been in touch with Mike over other Climber issues and agree, he is a great source of info etc. He actually has a new damper leg, but with shipping its a big cost for what is a small problem. It might be that I either get it welded and cut a new thread or turn up a new one out of barstock. I know the question has been asked over the years, but sight of, or a copy of a workshop manual would be nice. Steve

Hi all, I stripped down the forks of a 1993 Climber I am restoring to find a problem. As I have been unable to find any parts listing that shows the broken bit, I thought I should ask here. I have attached a photo for clarity. Also if anyone has any written (as in workshop info) relating to Foral forks, as fitted to Climbers until the last version in 1994, when Marzocchi's were used, I would be very grateful. Steve