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I'm tellin' ya... I replaced mine twice. Never stopped the leak.
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It's a standard oil seal, and you can replace it, but it'll just leak again almost immediately. All the early ones did. They made a change to later models to alleviate pressure building in the cases, which is believed to be what causes the leak, but I don't know if it worked or not.
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You probably haven't loosened the pinch bolt...
Right fork leg, small Allen bolt.
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Not in the US they aren't. My '17 and '18 both came with 45 pilots (which I replaced with 48's).
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I'll echo the above. If it's tiny and you can just sand the sharp edges off, it'll likely stop leaking.
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Super glue. After you apply it, sprinkle a little dry baking soda on it and it'll cure almost instantly. Wipe off excess, then you can sand it down with some very fine grit sandpaper to level it out.
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I don't get it either then. I put my kids on Osets for those years and can't imagine anyone choosing this over one.
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The reason to put kids on them would be if they have a clutch, gearbox, and normal rear foot brake setup. This is the main issue with current kids electrics. If they have auto clutches, I agree they're pointless.
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75W wet clutch gear oil is pretty easy to get. I see you're in Sweden, so I'm not sure what you have easy access to, but a few options would be:
- https://www.motosport.com/silkolene-light-gear-oil
- https://www.motosport.com/maxima-mtlxl-transmission-oil
- https://www.motosport.com/belray-75wt-gear-saver-transmission-oil
I'm sure plenty of people, as with the GG and TRS, run ATF as well.
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Maybe they put the wrong one in your gearbox... Although I guess if they're identical, no harm done.
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Sounds roughly normal. Try this: with the bike in first, rev the motor up a good bit before bending down with your right hand to lift it up into neutral. It'll go easier with some revs.
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I'll be replacing it, but the antifreeze is already correct (Maxima Coolanol, it's used rather ubiquitously in motorcycles with aluminum and mag cases).
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FYI, turned out to be the water pump.
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That does sound like the point, yes. It looks like there might have been some primary drive changes done to help accomplish it. At least, the gearing on the bike in the pics is 10/39, which is atypical for your normal new GG to this point (been 11/42 for quite a while). Of course 10/39 and 11/42 are nearly identical, so.... :shrug:
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I think by trials bike standards GG did a decent job of including some useful changes. The two piece clutch cover is much appreciated. The swingarm change I don't understand. The external crank bearings are nice, assuming it's all well engineered. The kevlar clutch means it's a full Xiu setup, which saves me having to change anything. It isn't ugly. Job done.
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https://gasgas.com/us/trial/547/94/txt-racing-2019
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I'd like to hear that with you just pushing the kicker through its stroke a few times, but to me, it seems a lot more mechanical sounding than what I'm hearing on mine.
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So warmed the bike up a few minutes (it doesn't make the sound when completely cold), pulled the plug, and the noise is still there. I'm mystified, mainly because it's impossible to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. I've heard from one person that says that have the same noise, and has continued to ride it with no sign of mechanical issues, so I'm inclined to do the same for the time being. I'll see about getting a mechanics stethoscope to help locate the sound.
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Good idea, I'll do that...
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I guess it could be, but they didn't do it up until recently.
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Pulled the reed block. Everything was tight and the reeds are fine. Some evidence of leakage around the gaskets but nothing crazy and no change after reassembly.
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That occurred to me. It sounded vaguely like an air leak, which was weird. You think it's the reeds themselves, or something else related to the reed block?
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By the way @miner, what was the fix? Just pull the flywheel and clean it up?
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