heffergm

Well, it's a preview of Jessie's RR, not necessarily all of them. The fact that the frame is in pieces kind of leads me to believe they pulled the bike apart to either send it out to be chromed or to polish it.

Good grief... I really hope that's just a one-off.

Yeah, I didn't mean stanchions, I meant lowers. I just don't like the black. As for the Reiger, the one on the RR has separate rebound and compression, but no separate high and low speed compression adjustment (I believe... I could be mistaken, but last I saw one I believe that was the case). Whether that's referred to as a 3 or 4 way these days I can never remember.

You don't need a pro to answer the question... there are plenty of guys around that ride at the advanced/expert club level that can show you.

Huh... I've never noticed the intake noise. The fan on the other hand...

I'd be surprised if they changed the frame color. I actually quite like the white myself. The only change I'd really care to see is a 3 way Reiger rather than the 2-way, and some not-black fork stanchions. I don't expect you'll see many changes on the '18, so at this point the only reason to choose one over the other would be balancing whatever discount you can get on a '17 vs increased resale (if you plan to swap bikes in the near future again) of the '18.

First gear. It's easier to learn if you find a small incline/hill and point yourself up it. You want to do everything in the 'seated' position: knees bent. Bring the front up from a dead stop, otherwise you're carrying too much speed, rear brake to stop, compress into it with your legs, then pop the clutch and sort of push your feet out in front of you. If you watch any of the pros do it you'll sort of see what I'm trying to describe. I still can't do it, but I'm getting closer.

I've heard several theories (guesses) that the reason they moved the CDI (or the rectifier... whatever the metal thing with fins is) up under the headlight was to make room to add fuel injection, but I guess we'll see.

I didn't say they didn't, I said my local dealer only has a 300. "I've seen it in person a number of times now (local dealer has one). I haven't bothered riding it because it's a 300, and I ride 250's these days"

I've seen it in person a number of times now (local dealer has one). I haven't bothered riding it because it's a 300, and I ride 250's these days, but superficially: it's an Ice Hell painted gray with a few special parts on it. It looks quite a bit better in person than in the pics (I didn't really like the gray, and it's still not my favorite thing in the world, but it's nice). Namely the header has an extra bend, presumably to get some more power out of it, and the linkage is of a slightly different design. Otherwise, it's mostly additional bling (which I'm all for!). Map 1 is just the 'normal' map. Map 2 and 3 are +1 and +2 rich (i.e. wet maps), and Map is -1 lean (i.e. altitude). They really need to get rid of the current button setup and switch to a fixed position switch, but regardless they offer quite noticeably different feelings. The mapping is updated for the Fajardo, but it's the same map that can now be loaded into all the other bikes, per my local dealer.

Once again, it's like reading comprehension has gone out the window. I find the TRS easier to hop than the vertigo. End of point.

Is it just me, or has anyone else that's ridden the Vertigo and the TRS find the TRS is infinitely easier to nose wheelie? I freely concede that my technique is horrible, and that, were it not, it would largely make no difference. But given what it is, I find the Vertigo carries so much weight down low, that it's very hard to initiate a nose wheelie without a kicker to help get the rear end started on its way up. Once it's up there it's easy to control because of the centralized mass, but unfortunately sections are seldom set up with my inadequacies in mind. The TRS by contrast is the lightest feeling bike I've ridden, and the rear end will come up incredibly easily without my needing anything to help it on its way other than the clutch and a bounce.

I saw a UK vendor info sheet a while back, and it suggested a 200:1 mix ratio. I've been mixing 133:1, which is the 0.75% ratio called out in the manual. I still get a lot of blow by out the exhaust, so I was curious, if you have been mixing 200:1,how's it working out? Since I haven't heard about any seized top ends, I'd guess well enough...

Anyone have any idea what the spring rate is on a 2017 Ice Hell? I can drop it and check, but I figured I'd ask first. I ask because I've got the preload ring backed all the way out, and I only barely get maybe a half inch of sag. I also feel like the back of the bike is bouncing off bigger hits rather than compressing into them (I weigh 63 kilos, 140lbs) .

FWIW, I've never had ethanol related (or any fuel related issue) in any of my 'things' with engines... cars, bikes, mower, etc. That includes the power washer that sits for at least a year between uses. Same with the snow blower... it still starts first pull. At the rate I blow through gas in the trials bike (which is very quickly during the summer) it's not something that I'm going to worry about. All this stuff lives outside in a shed by the way.

This a big source of confusion. Octane in the US and Europe is not indicated at the pump in the same way. Europe posts RON at the pump, the US posts AKI, which is (RON + MON) / 2. The end result of all this confusion is that 93 octane is the US is about the equivalent of 98 octane in europe (again, talking about indicated octane at the pump). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Measurement_methods Ethanol is a different matter, but if it makes you feel any better, Ryan Young and all his riders run pump gas in their bikes, and I run it all mine.

So I'm still not hugely bothered either way, but I did put ATF in the gearbox yesterday just to see how it felt after seeing this thread resurrected. Bike shifts the same (which is to say quite well), the clutch is a bit quicker (expected), but what was really noticeable was how much less cold start drag there was. I think I'll probably switch to ATF. I did a bunch of ATF research when I first bought the bike, and by the published specs, Mobil 1 Synthetic atf was nearly identical to the Castrol, so that's what I tried and will use.

I stopped caring. I run silkolene comp gear, which is what I ran in the GasGas, and it was fantastic there. Same in the vertigo. Il probably switch to silkolene light in the winter.

I'll ring it out a little. I change the plug pretty regularly.

So I'm starting to notice that when the bike is warm, on starting it it wants to, and sometimes does, stall immediately after starting if you give it a bit of throttle. It acts like a lean bog from a carb bike. It seems to be less an issue if it gets a really good kick to restart it, and/or you immediately give it a blip as it's firing. Anyone else know what I'm talking about here, or am I special?

Replaced oil seal, still weeps. Next suggestion? Maybe the sleeve?

Oil out the exhaust is normal. Run it 80:1, but how much drool you see will come down to how well jetted the bike is, how hard you run it, and what premix you run. The best way to start it from cold is to turn on the gas and lay the bike on the ground until fuel starts to spill out the vent line. Pick it back up and it should start 1st or 2nd kick. As for the fan, generally they kick on pretty quickly, especially if it's at all warm. No idea where you are, but here it's presently in the high 20's, and the fan on mine will start running within 5 minutes or so. That's just with the bike idling.

110 pounds is going to be a huge selling point. Would love to try one of they turn up here...

I use what looks like the usual hard plastic number plate, but it's flexible enough that you can put it on over the light, then you can just put a couple zip ties around it and the fork legs to ensure it doesn't go anywhere. Unfortunately I've only ever seen them at my dealer, and I have no idea where he gets them.