heffergm

Meh. I started on a 300. At idle they're all the same!

My, aren't we argumentative this evening. The fact that I think a 10 is appropriate and you think a 9 is more so shouldn't really cause things to devolve into name calling. To the original poster: feel free to try both, it'll only cost you and extra $21 or so.

Yeah, that's what the 10 is for

In my humble opinion... put a 10 tooth front on it (stock is 11, which is ridiculous... it's the only trials bike geared so tall), then leave it alone. I started on a 300. You'll learn throttle and clutch control really fast, or you won't, at which point you can ice your backside and take a few minutes to put a slow twist throttle on it. Between the gearing change and the slow throttle (if you go that way), it'll feel a lot more manageable. In the stuff that novices ride, I'm not really of the opinion that putting a 250 top end in it makes any difference. If you get it wrong, it doesn't really matter if you're on a 300 or a 250, either one is going to disappear out from under you equally quickly.

Not that it helps, but I'm going to take this moment to re-iterate that that is the worst oil drain bolt ever fitted to a motor. Mine got hung up on some junk that came out of the motor during an oil change when it was being threaded back in an damaged the threads. Luckily the bolt came back out, so the cover just had to come off to re-chase the threads from the other side. Maybe you can get at it that way?

That's what the sight glass is for. Start with 350. Check level. Fill to 3/4 the way up the glass.

It depends on how hot the oil is when you drain it and how much tipping the bike over to get it all out you want to do. I drain it hot and refill with 370.

Always... and if you want to bring some actual wine for post-event festivities I'm happy to partake.

Nothing like the first event of the year being 5 minutes from your front door. And with Wayne being trialsmaster, it's the only event of the year someone else riding intermediate might win, which is nice... I better be up for it, it might be my only shot all year

It's possible, but you have to really not be paying attention, on top of not checking that it's back together correctly after assembling, which you always need to do. Ask me how I know...

La gallina vecchia fa buon brodo... Forza Rossi!

Isn't most of California a 'refuge' for illegal immigrants now? Your bike should be welcomed with open arms! You're not going to get a trials bike frame in a bicycle box. And how exactly do you expect to get access to all the tools and work space to strip a bike down? All the issues involved here boggle the mind if you put the time in to actually thinking it through. Why you wouldn't just buy a used bike from a reputable seller in the US and have it shipped to your door I can't imagine.

Ideally you don't want to see any dirt past the filter. In my opinion you can never really over-oil a filter, since any that isn't held by the foam is just going to drip out into the airbox anyway. I see you've got a GG, so I'd say make sure when you're installing the filter, it's seated all the way around the cage against the air filter housing, and don't be shy screwing it down. You want the cage to fully compress the foam and seal it tightly against the inlet. Double check your airbox/carb boot is tight and correctly seated.

You mean the ones that start peeling off every new trials bike a few weeks after delivery?

The E4's were just a mid year model refresh for 2017, since the original 2017 GG arrived so early due to all the "we're out of business, we're back in business" mess. http://www.gasgasmotos.es/us/trial.html The only 2018's GG has released is the 125 'Trial School' model, the 80 Racing, and the Contact.

1-4 in the TRS are just like in the GG (and the vertigo for that matter). All section gears. It'll pull 4th fine. As for the RR being worth the money or not, only you can say, but if I were getting a TRS it would be an RR. To me it'd be worth it just for the 3 way Reiger and the way nicer painted frame.

So I pulled the 'dog bones' off, which was incredibly easy. That gives access to the lower two bearing recesses in the rose joint. For reference, the bearings are caged (HK1620 2RS). I stopped there because it looks like to get to the third bearing recess in the rose joint you need to pull the swingarm.

I've done plenty of linkages in other bikes. In just interested in specifics related to the vertigo of any one happens to have any.

Anyone had the linkage apart for greasing care to comment on how hard (or not) it is to get to everything? Were the bearings well greased from the factory? Anything else I should know before I tear into it?

Yeah, so the first time I tried the spacer I put one under both mounting bolts. That didn't work. Apparently the issue is more the angle that the stock bracket is set at, so a single spacer under the more rearward bolt did the trick. Thanks for the info!

Anyone else's front mud guard rattle like the dickens whenever you moving quickly over rough ground/landing the front wheel/or otherwise doing something that causes it to shake? Sounds like it's the front tire rubbing, but I tried shimming it and that didn't make a difference. The next possibility would be side to side movement causing it to rattle against the mounting bracket, but I'm not 100% sure. If it is, I don't really see an obvious way to shut it up.

Agree with above. I suspect Castrol is paying for the advertising all over the bike, so they recommend something they make that works. But it's probably just whatever ATF they have laying around that they test run the motor on before shipping.

I really don't like the tape on the ground... but in any case, I'd have 5'd him. His front tire was completely out of the section.

The soles on the Tech T's and the No Stops (the new and old Alpinestars), aside from the former being stitched, are identical in look and feel. Some people like the Gaerne's, but they're way too soft in my opinion.

Hrm?