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Well, by the same token, all those manufacturers generally spec new pistons at around 100 hours. The TRS manual for example says to replace the piston and cylinder annually. GG was something like 100 hours for a piston. Vertigo is the same (unless under competition use, then it says 60 hours). Of course no one does any of this maintenance at those intervals, but the point is, they could certainly get away with spec'ing really lean oil mix ratios if they also tell you to tear down the top end every year.
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What other 2t EFI bikes are there aside from the Vertigo (genuinely curious... I'm not aware of anything else outside the trials world, and Vertigo is it inside with Ossa gone). Not sure what mix Ossa recommended, but the 133:1 on the Vertigo doesn't strike me as a ton off what the TRS is recommending (100:1) and what a lot of GG owners have mixed their bikes at for quite a long time (also 100:1).
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What they need is William's energy storage flywheel. It was never used in F1, but it did get used in LMP1 I believe. From what I recall the implementation, even in that use case, was incredibly small and spun at some several hundreds of thousands of rpm's. Just have the electric motor spin up a small version of that little bugger and, fitted with a clutch, it should have some pop
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The gap between the frame rails and the ends of the swingarm mount holes is completely normal on a GG. This comes up all the time, and the first time I had the swingarm off and put it back together I thought something was screwed up as well, but again, it's normal. Think of it this way: the alternative would be that the swingarm extends all the way to the frame rails at the pivot point, and then what? Well, you've got your swingarm grinding on the frame, which is obviously no good. The gap is fine.
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The Vertigo's don't run 200:1, at least not all of them. I know they seem to recommend that in the UK, but the manual very plainly says 0.75%, which is 133:1.
Given the vagaries around mixing (is the measuring device perfectly accurate? How much oil did I leave in the mix cup? How was the fuel measured? Is that device perfectly accurate?) I still think whether you mix the TRS at 80 or 100:1 will make no difference.
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If I were you, I'd probably just mix them both 80:1 and call it a day, just to keep the fuel uniform. I have to mix for two different bikes at very different ratios and it's a pain. I don't think you'll do the TRS any harm at 80:1.
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If by 'derived' you mean 'made up', I'm with you
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Ooooh.... Do It! I've been dying to try one.
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Doesn't the 4rt have a big 'No Lead/Pb' sticker on the tank? VP110 is leaded, as is Avgas (100LL).
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Maybe, but only barely, and only if there's only one GG dealer in the country and you're at opposite ends
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3psi in the rear. Drop all your weight into the bike as you let the clutch out, so you're basically sitting on the airbox.
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How cold is it where you are?
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I got lost on the Bart Simpson thing as well... but anyway...
I wouldn't wait. If there's something audibly not right, just bring it back and see what the dealer thinks. Worst that happens is, he says it's normal (which is very likely) and sends you home. If it blows up, you have a record of your having brought it in, which makes a warranty repair (even if it's out of warranty) a lot more likely.
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I'd assume he knows what clutch rattle sounds like, given this is his 4th GG...
Swarth on the drain plugs is completely normal, it'll be a huge mess on the first oil change then become less but you'll always get some. As for the noise, no idea... like you said, near impossible over the internetz.
I do agree though that the general internet reaction to 'I hear a noise' is 'it's going to blow up'.
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JacksCycles apparently carries them now...
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We've got more to pay for here than two warm days in Feb... I've ridden basically all winter. Which by my calculations means this summer is cancelled
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The beta 200 is probably the best choice for most club riders. Whether the best choice lines up with what you really want is a completely different question.
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I generally agree with the above. I mean, even the FIM doesn't mandate back protectors and full face helmets. I'm fine with local clubs generally following the FIM, and leave it at that.
I would say though that I'm fine with not having to attempt a section to ask for a five. If all the sections are within my abilities but one, and I decide that for myself attempting that one section might end with me hurt, I'll take the five thanks. I don't honestly think anyone riding around getting fives at every section by just asking for them in order to be classed a finisher is something anyone needs to expend energy concerning themselves with for obvious reasons.
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Yeah, none of those are Transmax Z though I've looked at the spec sheets of almost all those that seem relevant (Dexron III stuff), and the M1 is still a closer match on all the published numbers.
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I have no idea what you guys are arguing about at this point...
The Vertigo manual specs ATF fluid. I'm fine with that.
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I'm sure they do, but they likely carry all kinds of other oil. But they mentioned it was 'recommended'. By whom I have no idea. Based on the numbers, I'm more inclined to run M1 simply because the viscosity numbers are closer to the Castrol recommended in the manual, and the fact that any additive package in the M1 is going to be more similar to the Castrol, being that they're both ATF.
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Of the synthetic ATF brands I could find spec sheets for, only Mobil 1 had basically the same numbers as the Castrol.
I have no idea how (or if) the maxima compares, haven't looked to see if they publish a spec sheet yet.
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What are you using? The manual on the vertigo site specs a Castrol synthetic ATF (the closest thing I can get in the US is Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). The US importer seems to recommend a Maxima 0w10 (no idea why). A close US dealer runs regular ATF.
Maybe anything vaguely oil like will suffice.
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The really brief answer is:
- a jap zap and a zap are the original and now PC expression for the same move
- a zap is a double blip with a clutch pop added in
You can add to that all kinds of things mentioned above, like a a stationary zap, etc;
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