mags

Billy, 1st gear in vid. The other... I'm ambidextrous and use any leaves in section that are smooth and shiny! (non-analRetentiveWink) Mags

My 2014 had a 102 link with stock gearing. If you are changing rear sprocket and chain for longer maybe try 10-43 first??? I had 10-41 stock and went to 10-43 for a substantial improvement is slowing the bike and general feel. Do most people go 9-43 for general trial comps? I suppose its what works for you though? Try the 10-43 first, its at least cheaper by a front sprocket price. Mags

Some of the car silicone hoses are pretty flexible and should do the job??? Mags

Glenn, It may be deceiving and not leave room for tank but it looks like you would almost get a straight piece of flexible heater hose in there? Come up out of head barb and straight up left side of fan motor and then across to rad barb??? Zip it to fan strut to keep it low? Also.... try jet skis and their shops they have some hoses that turn all sorts of directions, especially on the fourstroke yammys?? Mags

Good vid Ben! For static... lower your pressures right down say 2 in front and 1 in back. Turns bars fully one way (one way will become your fav, practice both ways til even), I hold foot that is to be lifted just behind foot peg so its close to bike and then up onto tippy toe of that foot... lean bike til it feels centred and lift foot from tippy toe to peg (not a fast lift but not a slow lift). Shift weight from peg to peg to balance. You can also move bars side to side as well for balance (like you did in vid at one stage). As it gets easy increase pressures in tyres back to normal. We practice after dinner at night til thighs give out, motor off of course because bike is in house!! Once you get good at it you really only move the bars for static to save fatigue on thighs.... well at mid-fifties at least! You 30 somethings can do it all day!! wink Mags

A way to quantify the bar position would be to measure the angle between the section of the bars where it just come out of the bar clamp and the fork centre line??? Would that be a way? I could put a straight edge with a spacer block on the fork area between triple clamp and measure bar angle with bevel gauge? Obviously if you put bars back and parallel with fork tube they would be too far back??? Mags

Billy, Height 178cm, 5Ft 10" Weight 88kg or 194 lbs Inside leg 33 inches, arm length 30 inches to finger tip so probably average length in both? Penis length, only very average but never had a complaint? 100% satisfaction for me every time I use it! Gearing was stock at 10-41 but now changed to 10-43. And some pics... Mags

ShercoNoob, Done the backflip off wall! Oh wait, you mean on the Cota? Yeah... did it in a dream the other night!! Hehehehe Credit card for Billy huh? If he does a trials comp in Oz I'll pay for his section fuel!! Is he Rum, Scotch or Gin powered? Mags

I'm not an expert in the field but can provide some info after playing in boats for 30 yrs! The more anodic (an anode) a metal is the more it sacrifices itself to a cathodic metal (cathode). Cathodes tend not to corrode but will. The classic case is aluminium sacrificing itself to stainless steel fasteners in an aluminium boat. The metal don't have to be touching for anode/cathode reaction, just have a liquid between them as is done on testing (flowing seawater). Magnesium is one the most anodic metals known (corrodes well if not protected). So if it is placed in proximity to differing types of metals it will be very anodic to less anodic depending on the metal type near it. I suggest you have a peek at a noble metal scale and see the the metals as far away in the scale from magnesium as you can. Things like stainless 316 are far away but even stainless has an issue when removing oxygen from contact with its surface (it corrodes as well albeit slower). Magnesium is so anodic I'd use it to protect other metals in a boat! Its not used because of cost! Low cost zinc is used mainly or aluminium sometimes, both are very close to magnesium on the noble metal scale. There is NO issue with plastics with galvanic corrosion but there is thermodynamic one... the closer to its molding temp the more it softens. Some of the nylons have a high temp resistance, well... enough to use as a cooling system joiner for two rubber hoses. If there is plenty of aluminium around the cooling system you could go ally but it is very anodic as well and very close to magnesium on the scale. The coolant may have properties to slow this down markedly though. Is it a super-weird shape and diameter that there is not a hose somewhere , off something else, for it? Or two that can be joined? Mags

The last pic looks like an exhibit in a museum in 2200 AD!!! This a MONTESA trials bike of 2015! It ruled the trials world of the day with a legend called Bou. He won 20 World Championships before taking off his boots for good. It ran on a form of fossil fuel called petrol. (prehistoricWink) Mags

A good friend of mine fabricates components for race cars and is a TIG and TIG design expert. He uses special belts (Al oxide from memory) on a linisher to prep surface and remove ally's surface oxide layer. Then uses a wax remover you use for the car painting industry as a wash just before welding up. He uses new paper towels to apply wax remover not rags et cetera. Some pics of his work! He is a high end fabricator and charges accordingly. I have a beautiful Kempe Digital TIG and am trying to learn the skill... he has always said to me "First rule in ally welding, cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness of surface to be welded. Mags

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated! Ok! I need to cover rear brake more and use in turns more. I do use it in turns downhill. Lean the bike more, bend knees more, look where you want to go not where you are going. Outside knee out and rotate hips. Shoulders as parallel as possible with bars. Relax. Head over the bars, butt more forward. Inside leg and arm straighter. Move bars back a little. ( I set the bars ends at the highest point (12 o clock) in rotating them forward backward. Sherconoob, We have got to get to WDTC non-comp day! TAF, One day I WILL scale that wall! Hehehehehe Rob214, I've only been riding trials since Jan this year and have only been in one comp, last March, Beginner class. Failed dismally (18 sections only and three falls) We just ride our trials bikes together (wife and I) as a hobby but want to move into comps when we are both experienced enough to be relatively safe. I do ride an enduro as well (hobby riding not competition) and ride a big road bike daily. Never not had a bike in the shed for 43 yrs straight. One thing we do like a trial expert... when out there... we have a absolute ball!!! Thanks everyone! Mags

A question.... how do you guys embed the vids so they show as a video to click on instead of a link to click on? Thanks Mags

I'm practicing a few days a week at home to supplement the rides on weekends. Here is a snippet of todays practice. I hope it works? I have used the Gopro studio for first time and had to open a youtube account and this is my first ever video on the net. Mags

On the clubman sections where you are running a bit slower to get around corners, down and up banks et cetera I'd be ok but where you have to jump a log or rock higher than the bash plate clearance I'd be in dabland or worse... Uh ohhhhhhh! The rider has left his steed!!! Hehehehe As discussed by many clubs before, if the beginner sections are set so a "rank beginner" mostly fails there is no incentive to come back. This is what happened to me back in March at my first ever trial. I did 15-18 sections and gave it away after falling 3 times (no bad injury, just bruising) I know of three other people this has happened to as well this year and not by word of mouth. I've actually spoken to the two guys and one girl who never went back. They ride on private land now. I have discussed it with them a few times and I'm pretty sure they'll be back shortly. They are not beginner riders like my wife, just beginner riders to trials. Incentive and praise is a great motivator. I think I read in these forums that one club gives you a small medallion the first time you EVER complete 40 sections no matter the dab count. Would be about $10 in zinc with plating but would be solid gold to a beginner!!! You could even add the cost to membership and explain its waiting for you the first time you complete 40 sections. And, as a beginner you just have to go through the in gate and out the out gate, following any line you like. I had two choices... just ride social forever or improve to a point where its fun and challenging but as safe as possible. We have chosen the latter and I've done my 30 years with "hero status" so don't need to put injury before ego. I'll take a 5 and move on to next section. I can always return to it. As I've said before... the dream is for both of us to compete in novice trials comps. My wife is far behind my ability as a rank beginner to bikes (Jan this year first ever go and it was her Beta 4T) but when she comfortable to try Novice again we'll enter one. We are keeping an eye out on Facebook for next WDTC social/fun/learn day... with baited breath and polished tyres. (rubberyWink) Viva La Trials Mags

I think the old adage... the cheapest thing you buy (no matter the price) is the thing you buy ONCE! The Dunlop on my Montesa and the Michelin on wife's Beta have been fantastic tyres. Not one issue on either. The Dunlop seems to have stiffer walls/softer tread so I run slightly lower pressures there, the Michelin has softer walls/harder tread. Both seem to have around the same traction in non-wet areas. Have not done enough wet riding yet, to decide. Mags

Billyt, Thanks for the tip about vmar! Their billet cap is about $60 Australian, the hand racing is about $178 Australian. I have an email into vmar about shipping to Australia. They should do! Love the front guard spacers as I get the odd stone running through between the tyre and guard, sounds like its doing damage. The case protector looks good as well... not sure if needed but priced well! Don't mind the red axle clams as well! Only about 88 sleeps until the girls have to think about presents for Dad's Montesa!! Ahahahahahahahaha No hankies this year!!! Hehehehehe Mags

Oh ok! That explains it. Intro section at times were next to the harder grades. Just saw a couple of sections I thought "no way going through there", not YET, anyway. Almost got out to you guys (WDTC) last Sunday (even printed out the membership forms for both of us) but it was not to be, unfortunately! We own a busy Veterinary Practice (small animal practice, in the city) and the patients come first, especially hospital cases on fluids. Got some maintenance/cleaning done on the bikes though... Mags

It really hones your skill.... of bandaging!!! Hehehehehehe And buy some monkey butt cream for the "near the boys" initial chaffing!!! I'd imagine any form balancing practice would be good for trials? I'd prefer something a little closer to earth in event of first falls... and more wheels... like the little clown trikes! I had a go on one once and was the only person who was able to ride the little trike.... my first two attempts were not good as I soon realised if you lean (even slightly) forward or backward you go over bars or fall back on backside! I was determined and eventually got it.... there was a crowd looking on so I had to give it a good go! If you get the unicycle I'd find a beam and drop two ropes, one for each hand, grab rope/ropes for support and then get on it. Don't forget it has a very high centre of gravity (opposite to a trials bike) so will never be still, you have to rock the pedals back and forth to static it. Sorta like we do on our static, the footpegs slightly rocking side to side or bars slightly back and forth. And as you pedal the thing wants to turn in the opposite direction of the pedal forced down.... you would have to learn how to counteract this force as you pedal each time. Wear some armour and pads for first goes.... AND a helmet! Mags

Jo, Welcome to the trials world. The bike only goes as fast as turn the throttle so you just need to hone the throttle/clutch skills for trials bikes. You can get fast throttles and slower throttles that you can swap out in the throttle housing. If a fast one in there you can swap it for a slower one? Also.... very good practice in trials riding to ALWAYS cover the back brake. If you feel front lifting too high you can keep it in check with application of rear brake or you can pull clutch slightly, or both. This eventually needs to be a sub-conscious reaction by sheer repetition. I'm still very novice at it but I regularly practice idling along in a straight line and pull front up and drop bike back down with a bit of back brake. The idea is to bring it down smoothly not thump it back to earth... I'm not there yet! Hehehehehe Clutch, throttle, brake technique and skills improve outta sight with practicing basic skill of static balance and ever tightening figure 8's. I started static with tyres at 1.5 psi and increased it as I started balancing over 1 minute, motor off. Then started static with motor going, and then downhill, and then uphill. My next thing is popping the front wheel up on to a small log or rock and then static on it..... not there yet. Another thing I try to practice is static.... then turn bars to straight ahead and take-off straight into a front wheel lift of about a foot or so... My ultimate goal for static ... static balance motor off... kickstart motor, put in gear and ride off... without a dab!!! Given myself 2 yrs for that one!!! What I'm sorta getting at is hone the basic skills and rest comes along nicely! AND I nearly forgot the absolute, number one thing all trials riders have to do... HAVE FUN on the journey! Mags

BetaBoy (formerly Sherconoob), In the vid where you show the harder line it doesn't seem like there is a way through for novice? Or is it just the way its filmed showing the higher grade route and there is a beginner way through? Mags

ahahahahahahahaha Thats funny! Admin can change name??? Mags

Gets pretty hot here in summer, 30-40 deg C! Like vonhazza, in summer I use my motocross tops. They are one size larger because of armour underneath and that allows plenty of movement when using them on trials bike with no armour. The long sleeve is great for sun protection as well.... don't have to slather arms with sunscreen. They breathe well and some are vented.... pretty colours as well, that the young guys love! I tend to use the ones that are fairly plain. My white/lime green one is much cooler in direct sun than my dark blue Yamaha ones. Mags

Jimmie, I do straight ahead with the bike leant over as far as possible... keep the bike straight as you can, follow a bit of rope on the ground 10 or more yards long, tensioned and staked. Harder than you think and great deposit in the "balance" bank! It gets you really comfortable with leaning the bike... then do the slow turns. You can eventually get the bike over so far in a straight line that the foot you lean towards slips off the peg!!! Mags

Nice bike, mate! Just needs a good clean ! (eatOffTheSeatWink) Welcome. Mags