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Hey 19delta, Can you report back with how you find the bike after the clutch plate fix? I'm thinking about doing the same to mine soon and would love to know how it goes. Mine isn't dragging really bad but it's just enough to be annoying at certain points throughout the day, sometimes it's fine and other times it's noticeable.

Noticed a clunk in my frontend and found that the nut on top of the yokes was loose. Found this post through a Google search and did what 2lls said and the clunk went away! Many thanks!

To check you can use something like a contact cleaner (recommended as it's not as harsh), carb cleaner or engine starter fluid, spray this around the intake boot both airbox and carb side (one at a time) making sure you give it a good spray while the bike is running. Listen for a distinctive change in the sound in the engine RPM either up or down when you spray the cleaner around the boot. This is generally only good for large air leaks, yours sounds like it could be minor. I had the same issue and even with the above method couldn't resolve my issue. It was only until I took all the air intake kit off (airbox, tube, carb) that I found a pinch in the hose boot which was allowing the leaking air. Is this a bike you just bought? Is it your current bike and it's just started to do this? Has it recently had any major servicing done to it?

What type of difference did you notice in the noise from the exhaust after doing this?

Hey guys, Quick question about the exhaust packing in my 2010 Beta EVO 125 2T. I've noticed that my bike compared to other bikes of similar age is a lot louder. Most other bikes I can not only hear the exhaust but also a bit of engine noise too, there exhaust almost seems to "putt" where mine seems to "pang". Mine is a more of a harsh sound and it sounds like the packing is not absorbing much of the sound at all, I popped the end cap off the bike to discover a bunch of grime and goop inside the lower silence itself and similar but a lot less inside the end cap. The goop in the exhaust is blocking all of the holes in the metal baffle. I've read that if you get the exhaust hot enough some of this can burn off, but this looks really goopy, what's the best option in my case? Go for a hard ride? New silencer time? Throw some petrol down it? Photos inside the exhaust system (scroll down for all the photos, click to zoom): http://imgur.com/a/eyRKH Edit: I'm running 98 octane with Motul 800 2T oil, 72:1 (same as the previous owner) Thanks

A 300 2T is a handful for anyone in my honest opinion. Those 300's are starting to catch up on the power of 250cc 4 stroke race bikes which are 40 kg heavier. I opted for a 125cc bike after I felt the power of a an 07' GG 270cc which was far too much for me being a beginner, but I think a 200-250 would be the sweet spot for those with previous bike experience. I've heard a lot of people recommend a slow throttle for the 300's to tame them down a bit. I guess it depends on what type of riding you are doing, the 300's would definately excel in areas where that low end pull is critical (big zaps, splatters, climbs).

I'm not doing zaps yet but most of my training has been on figuring out when to just roll over or unweight the bike to get over something vs. when to double blip. I'm always surprised at how much the bike can actually get over by just simply rolling over it. Check out all of this YouTube's channels videos if you haven't already, they are a must!

Preface: Did you over tighten the valve on the rim tape (you might have cracked it)? Did you clean the wheel before you installed the new rim tape? Did you ensure you tucked the edge of the rim tape into the rim when you seated it? Did you use some type of grease on the rim tape to ensure that it stretched out evenly around the circumference of the wheel? I had the same problem with my Beta Evo rear wheel, I was so annoyed at the time it made me want to convert my rear rim to the newer design where the spoke hooks into the rim instead of going through it. My problem was that I was using only soapy water to try and seat the rim tape into the rim. A tip from my local GasGas dealer was to use some rubber or assembly grease on the rim. Only put the grease in the channel where the rim tape seats (red in the diagram below) otherwise it may cause the bead some issues. I also put a little bit of grease on the rim tape itself before installing it, dab the grease onto the inner spoke nipples and don't be afraid about putting too much on as the excess will just ooze out between the spokes and can be easily wiped off. Once I have the rim tape in place I use a blunt object (like the end of a plastic/wooden ruler) to ensure the edges of the rim tape are pushed down into the rim well, After that make sure there is no grease near where the bead seats. (grease is colored in red)

15 stone newbie rider here. I've got a Beta 125 and it's plenty of enough power for me. The only thing that's letting me down at the moment is the bikes suspension, the rear squats down and I feel this is adversely affecting the handling of the rear/front. I was thinking about upgrading the rear spring, but as I've been losing weight I'll just see how it pans out. I'll try to get my weight back down to around 12 stone and hopefully this will improve things.

How cheap is cheap? I can definitely relate to having a great suspension setup out of the box. My 2010 Beta Evo feels like it's sprung in the rear for a youth and something is not right in the front (maybe old oil) so I'm slowly working it all out. I think next time I'm at a trial I'll give my bike to one of the A/B graders and ask them to do a few hops and see what they think, if they can do all the tricks without complaints I'll just put up with it.

Thanks for the reply! I thought as much, the angle of the carb is aggressively titled forward. I just opened the carb to just make sure the floats are positioned correctly and I noticed the floats are not level (with each other) so I fixed that up. This did help improve the situation from the quick testing I performed with lifting the rear wheel a few feet of the ground but I'll need to check it out on the trail. I'll also have a play around with the idle tick over. Thanks again Not sure if it's just the downhill or if it's flooded but I do find it hard to start it again on the downhill.

On my 2010 Beta evo 125 I've noticed that my idle starts to drop (not stall) when the bike is pointing downhill on a steep camber, is this normal? (new to trials, not sure if this normal)

I bought Ryan Young 1 & 2 from splatshop ebay uk and the rest of my DVD's from Paul at thehellteam.com. I'm not sure If I feel it's fair that they are on YouTube, Maybe 1 or 2 of them as a preview (try before you buy) but this is the mans income being given away for free.

My father did the same thing with MTB and Road riding, he used Road riding as training for the Mountain Bike and now pretty much exclusively rides road. I think I was looking at that bike on biketrialsdirect's website, there is also the Echo lite SL for $960. One of the problems with bike trials I have found the private resale market is very small and limited to only a few forums where people post up FS ads. It would definitely help with the technical and the physical side of the fitness equation. Also with the bike being much lighter you can get away with certain things that would end in disaster on a moto trials bike.

Currently I don't have access to much trials country as my bike is down south of where I live (2 hours away) as I don't have enough room for it in the City (Australia/Sydney/CBD) so currently I only ride on the weekends. I was thinking about buying a trials bike to muck around on during the weekdays. I'm wondering if this is a good form of cross-training for moto trials? I have noticed that a lot of the guys who a very fluid on the motorbikes are from a bike trials background. If I was to buy a bike, it would most likely be a mod 20" and mostly would just dick around in small areas up stairs and what not. Thoughts? Anyone else done the same? Did it help?

Most of my calculations have been based on what was recommended in the "Learning Trials" DVD by Jordi Pascuet. It recommends the following: Total extension - Rider on Bike = Race Sag Total extension - Bike freestanding weight = Static Sag Recommended values: Front Forks: Rider on the Bike = 5-6cm sag (Static sag Range=1-1.5cm) Rear Suspension: Rider on the Bike = [Min]6cm, [Max]8cm sag (Static sag Range=1-2.0cm) My Numbers: Front Forks: Race sag: 7cm (cannot add anymore preload) & Static sag: 1cm Rear Shock: Race sag: 10cm (cannot add anymore preload) & Static sag 1cm

Thanks for the reply Dan So a 3 part response; Part 1: I've noticed when I'm on my bike and others, the rear squats really low (this is a picture of me on a Scorpa 125). On my Beta the rear mud guard is even closer, the bike looks like a chopper! I understand that the bike is suppose to be soft, but if most of the suspension travel is taken up by my weight there isn't going to be much for soaking up the bumps right? Part 2: Yes this is my first trials bike, But i've also ridden a Scorpa 125 and GasGas 270 for half a day. The 270 If I recall wasn't too bad as it might have been setup for a slightly heavier and more experience rider. Part 3: I'll try and be more mindful of that next time I'm out on the bike.

Hey all, Short version: How often would you recommend replacing the front fork spring in these forks? Long version: After 10 hours of riding I'm starting to pick out certain things I know feel kind of wrong. My first find was definitely the rear suspension. I'm currently overweight (100 kg, looking at getting down to ~80 kg) and this is way too much for the rear spring to handle. With nearly maximum preload the bike is still settling into around 97mm of race sag and out of spec with static sag, which from what I've read tells me the spring needs to be replaced with something stiffer, the rear is just too sloppy and gives me little spring/support for basic log hops. While I'm investing in the rear I thought I might fix the front up, how often do people recommend replacing the front fork spring? The aftermarket springs seem to be stiffer (>95kg) riders, so I might invest in the stock spring as this is my target weight. Regards,

Looking at the tach more for setting idle RPM, not really worried about anything else

Hey all, I've installed a Tachometer [Hardline Hour/Tach] onto my Beta but the RPM it's showing is way off. When I touch the wire in any mode (near the spark plug end) with my fingers it drops by a factor of x2. Am I missing something? It's an induction type that just wraps around the spark plug lead. The tach supports the following modes: 1 pulse = 1 revolution 2 pulses = 1 revolution 1 pulse = 2 revolutions RPM shown in the following mode: 1 pulse = 1 revolution (4000rpm) 2 pulses = 1 revolution (2000rpm) (drops to 1000 rpm, when wires are touched) 1 pulse = 2 revolutions (8000rpm) Any ideas? If you are currently using a tach/hour meter with great success what brand/mode? Thanks!