malibudon

Arenacross definitely has an issue with toxic fumes in a confined area. I Googled these three words together: exhaust arenacross fumes This is the first story: http://www.toledoblade.com/apps/pbcs.dll/a...EWS16/101100132 "What we typically do is we have inspectors on board at the event and we also send over at least one of our units that has a monitor for carbon monoxide. When the levels start to become a little bit high we stop the event temporarily and let them air it out," Chief Bell said. Let's face it. Running high rpm internal combustion engines in an enclosed area is pretty much a bad idea. How bad is determined by the number of motors and the volume of the room.

I'm skeptical of links like this. I can't find the story anywhere else on the Internet. The only thing I can find out about RD Greenaway is that he wrote a book entitled Cornish Hurling: The Popular Origins of a Magical Ritual. What he wrote may be true, but I'd like to see the information come from a verifiable source. Here's a peer-reviewed FAQ on the subject from the good old days of Usenet. Make of it what you will: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-fa...2/preamble.html

You're in the ballpark with this. The seal isn't air tight. The hose vacuums the fumes back down into the underground tank. This isn't done to protect the person pumping the gas (at least not directly). The purpose is to reduce air pollution.

I'm not sure about the compressed air idea. From K&N: CAUTION: THE USE OF ANY OTHER DRYING METHODS (I.E. COMPRESSED AIR, DRYER HEATERS, HEAT GUNS) COULD DAMAGE FILTER. http://www.knfilters.com/clningins.htm + + Unlike a plastic foam air filter which is very difficult to tear, the cotton used in a filter can rip relatively easily, compromising the filtering integrity of the cotton.

We really need to do something about the menace of global warming.

I believe Twin Air products are available world wide. They make an excellent cleaning fluid and cleaning tub. Also, I believe every major Japanese manufacturer markets its own air filter cleaning/oiling products (though I'm sure someone else makes them). Here's the process I use, and my filters are pretty much 100% clean after each washing: Spray oil filter cleaner on the filter (pretty much any brand handy). Rinse thoroughly. At this point, most of the dirt is out, but it's tough to get all the oil (and the dirt it's holding) out. I then dunk the mostly clean filter in my Twin Air cleaning tub filled with Twin Air cleaning fluid. Rinse thoroughly. At this point, the filter is about as oil- and dirt-free as it's going to get. Another tip: Always rinse the filter from the engine-side out! If you rinse from the open air-side in, you will push the dirt farther into the filter, toward the engine! Oh, and I did get a chuckle out of the claim by the gentlemen with the unoiled filter that it's always clean when he examines it. Of course it's clean...it's not filtering/collecting any dirt! Any dirt/dust that comes its way is going straight into the carburetor and on to the combustion chamber.

Ron, there isn't an air filter company around that's going to suggest you clean your filter with petrol. For one, it's dangerous on a variety of levels (fumes, fire, skin absorbtion). Second, the gasoline can attack the glues used in the filter, with disasterous results. If you don't want to buy dedicated air filter cleaner, a good soap and warm water will do it with a bit more work. And don't dilute the air filter oil. Add it slowly, so you don't oversaturate the filter. But, diluting it is not a good strategy.

They don't yet seem to know how Symons died: http://thestar.com.my/sports/story.asp?fil...&sec=sports

Well, looking at peak numbers doesn't tell you anything about performance. All that tells you is how the motor is tuned.

You dry air filter guys can do what you want, but a dry air foam air filter is of virtually no value. Even Briggs & Stratton can tell you this, and I think our motors require a bit more TLC than those workhorses: How It Works The "foam only" style air filter system works by trapping dirt and debris through the use of motor oil spread throughout the oil foam holding medium. A dry or non-oiled oil foam filter will trap only the largest particles. If the air filter element is foam only, it MUST be oiled and serviced regularly. http://briggsandstratton.com/display/router.asp?DocID=64059 = = = The fact is this: A foam air filter is not a filter at all. It only exists to hold the oil, which attracts and holds the dirt. Without the oil, the foam air filter has no way of filtering particles that are relatively large...such as sand. Anything smaller, and there is all kinds of dust floating in the air where you go, will find its way into your engine.

Even in wet conditions, an air filter should never be run dry (unless it's a paper filter). A foam filter without oil isn't going to catch any dust. And there is dust in the air no matter where you are...even PWCs require air filters. So, the answer is a resounding YES!

I had a Gas Gas 200 Pro, rode a Montesa 4RT for three events, then back to the 200. Even a cursory ride would show you that they couldn't be more dissimilar. Having said that, a huge part of that difference is 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke, not 200 vs 250. The most obvious difference, for me, was picking through tricky rock piles. Starting and stopping on the 200 was easy. The 4RT was not happy about that, and preferred that I keep the gas on, rather than clutch-and-go. But, on rocky drops, I like to take a peek over the precipice before I go, and the 4RT didn't like to allow that. So, no, I would not a agree that a 250 4-stroke is similar to a 200 2-stroke.

I don't believe the Keihin FCR-MX 39 is a CV carb. It's a flat-slide carb, AFAIK. Everyone can judge for themselves: http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/fcrmx.php Ultimate off-road performance. Keihin has developed an FCR carburetor designed for the specialized needs of the off-road racer. The FCR-MX carburetor has many new features to take motocross and ATV performance to the next level. FCR-MX Features * Over-flow drain joint and tube. * Air cut valve (ACV) for de-acceleration enrichment. * Hot re-start knob. * Quad vents. * Throttle cable enclosure. * High capacity float chamber. * Float chamber baffle for rough terrain. Click on the PDF for an exploded view of the carb. If there's a CV setup, I can't find it. However, I am not a Carb Doctor, and I don't play one on TV. I leave stuff like this to the experts!

To the layman, there are two ways to find out if the linkage is bad: 1. Pull it apart and inspect it. 2. Compare it to a bike with new linkage. To Honda's quality control credit, even when the linkage is trashed, it still works decently! But, once replaced, the suspension action improves greatly. Ask if the linkage has ever been serviced. If it hasn't, it's probably bad by now...9 years later!

Just to clarify, the linkage provides a rising rate of leverage on the shock. This has an effect on both the damping and the spring. On the linkless Beta, the variable rate damping does the job of the linkage (light initial damping that gets progressively firmer), but the spring is on its own. While the links are more vulnerable to damage, the mounting of the shock on a linkage system puts the shock itself farther out of harm's way. KTM uses a linkless system, while the Japanese brands have stuck with linkage swingarms.

I have a '98 315R and I recommend it to anyone. It has ultra-smooth power and reasonable weight. The suspension and handling are outstanding. Plus, it's as reliable (though considerably lighter than) an anvil. Eventually the linkage will go south, so that's about the only think to look for. As far as the RX goes, I've never heard of that model.

http://www.av2mp3.com/faq/convert-wmv-to-mp3.htm

Let me spell check this message... I've got nothing to loose. Wear dew I find it? ...Hey! You we're write! Not a single mistake. I should have tried this before!

:agree: I had Thumper Racing build an XR280R motor for me, and it was awesome!

Here's a little factoid: Mitas makes Trelleborg tires: http://www.trelleborgtyres.co.uk/

I could be wrong about this, as I've never personally tried it, but it is my understanding that the top ends of the TY350 and TY250 monos are not interchangeable. Believe me, if they were, plenty of American TY350 owners would have made the swap. The TY250 mono engine was hugely superior, and I do know that from personal experience. It was a travesty that Americans were stuck with the TY350.

I'll chime in that the 200s are great. I had a Gas Gas 200 Pro, and it's the best of the 125 and 270 worlds. It has the needed grunt down low for all but the heaviest riders, but can be spun up without feeling like you're going to get out of control. I can actually go up bigger steps on a 200 than a 270/280/300 because I can be more confidently aggressive with the motor. I think the popularity issue is a testosterone thing. For some testicular-based reason, the average basher thinks he's World Championship material and he needs to ride what the top guys ride. If you ride with your brain, rather than your family jewels, you will make the right decision.

And don't forget to inspect any fuel filters along the way.

Sendero, the top guys in any sport get both adulation (some appropriate and deserved, some not) and criticism (some constructive and reasonable, some not). Is there some reason trials is supposed to be different?

I believe fill flash is crucial, for two reasons: 1. It allows you to freeze the action, while still getting good background motion blur. This requires the photographer to perfect his panning skills. You can't hold the camera still, wait for the rider to enter the photo and then trip the shutter. When you do that, you get a perfectly sharp background and a blurred rider, exactly the opposite of what you want. 2. It allows you to shoot into the sun without the nasty shadows that result, especially in the rider's face.