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From the sound of things, I'd say the answer is yes.
Given that the buyer went home and played mechanic on the bike, I'd say the seller has no responsibility in the matter.
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If you're looking at a brochure, you're going to be lucky if it's printed at 300 dpi...the screen is almost certainly less.
Stretch those (hopefully) 300 pixels over 5 inches and you've got less than 60 dpi...that's less than screen resolution.
I can't wait to see you guys work your magic.
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Yikes!!!
The oil is what stops the dirt, not the "filter". The filter is only there to suspend the oil. I hope you haven't destroyed your motor.
Yes, you need proper air filter oil. You can get it at any motorcycle shop (in person or online).
Here are a tip plenty of people don't know:
When rinsing out the air filter, always run the water from the engine side to the air side. That way you don't force the dirt into the filter, toward the engine.
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And that's on a 96dpi monitor.
Things get even worse when you go to print.
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Can you imagine being in Donner in the winter? You might end up eating your relatives!
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Unfortunately, there's no way to take a 1" x 2" photo and blow it up to 5" x 7" without serious, very noticable degradation of the image.
Keep in mind that 1 x 2 = 2 square inches. 5 x 7 = 35 square inches. You want to enlarge it by 17.5x! That just isn't going to work.
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Ridgecrest may have hotels, but none at the level you can find in Truckee. The same goes for restaurants.
But, if they have PlayStation, Starbucks and race fuel from the pump, they're clearly a world-class metropolitan city.
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Thanks to everyone for the tips!
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I can get 'em cheaper in the good ol' USA:
10-22mm f3.5-4.5.....$675
70-200mm f4......$514
24-70mm f2.8 USM.....$1130
70-200mm F2.8 USM....$1650
But, if you don't want to spend the money required to get that set of gear, there are two ways you can approach it.
You can buy a wide range zoom (or two) and use them for a while. After you discover which focal lengths you use the most (that info in stored digitally inside your image files), you can consider getting the expensive lens in that particular range.
Or, you can buy a set like above, but at smaller (numerically larger) maximum apertures. Then, as you replace the lens(es) you use most with a higher quality lens that will do a superior job of performing the task. And, of course, don't neglect the second-hand market. But, here's a tip: Buy Canons new and 3rd-party lenses new. The OEM lenses hold their value, so you might as well go new. The 3rd party lenses take a bike dive on the used market, so take advantage of that.
I have a Nikon, but the concept is the same. I have a 80-200 f2.8 VR and it cost me about $1700. It was worth every single penny. A truly amazing lens. Once you use something like that, you never want to use a cheap lens again. I have a Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, but only because Nikon won't go as wide as 10mm.
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Sherco040, what zoom lens you need depends on what you're shooting.
Are you shooting local trials where you can get as close as you like? If so, a wide angle zoom is the best choice. If you can't get close, like at a world round, then you need to get a telephoto lens that will allow more magnification of the rider/machine.
For wide, the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 is your baby. It will make your trials pics look absolutely spectacular, as it exaggerates, rather than minimizes the size of the obstacles. However, you must get very close to use this lens.
To supplement it when you can't get so close, or you're not trying to get the most radical action, the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM is an outstanding choice. This fast lens will focus quickly and look tack sharp when stop down to about f8, which you need to do to get decent depth of field.
Long shots will look great with the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM thanks to the image stablization technology. For a bit less money, there's the EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM.
Finally, a flash is mandatory. I will eliminate harsh shadows on a sunny day, and brighten up a dreary one. The more flash power you have at your disposal, the better, so the 580EX rocks.
At your end, you must learn to pan. If you don't, you'll have a blurry rider and a tack-sharp background, exactly the opposite of what you want.
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Heh.
That's an amusing scare tactic sales pitch from Symantec.
I've been on the WWW since 1994 (remember Mosaic?).
Never had a virus. Never had a anti-virus program.
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Brian, I hate to break it to you, but you really should have bought a Mac if you intend to make movies and DVDs. The free, included software is virtually flawless and is in a completely different league from the equivalent Windows programs.
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Make that:
http://www.endurocrossusa.com/qualifierinfo.htm
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Whether you have professional observers or not, people will always be dissatisfied with officiating, no matter what the sport.
When trials can afford (and requires) professional obsrevers, we'll get them.
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Thanks to all for confirming that purchasing an Apple Macintosh computer was a wise decision.
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As a trials rider, I suppose I should complain about the wear-and-tear on trails done by knobby tires and call for the banning of non-trials dirt bikes from trails. Come to think of it, I've seen some dirt bike riders drinking beer and riding off trails now and then. Wait! I've seen trials riders do that, too, and I've seen people on trials bikes without [gasp] helmets. We should all be banned, for the good of Mother Earth.
Some words of wisdom (especially for people who compare ATVers to terrorists and murderers):
"If we do not hang together, we shall surely hang separately."
--Thomas Paine.
"When Hitler attacked the Jews
I was not a Jew, therefore I was not concerned.
And when Hitler attacked the Catholics,
I was not a Catholic, and therefore, I was not concerned.
And when Hitler attacked the unions and the industrialists,
I was not a member of the unions and I was not concerned.
Then Hitler attacked me and the Protestant church --
and there was nobody left to be concerned."
--Martin Niemoller
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Well, then things are quite different in Kansas than they are in California (where I've been riding since 1970). Quads weren't even invented until 1983 (or popular as trail bikes until 1985), and I can guarantee you that in California motorcyclists had been under the close scrutiny of environmentalists for over a decade.
Ultimately, I doubt that you have a problem with quads...just some of the people who ride them. I've seen the same sort of behavior (trashing, partying, etc.) from people in cars and trucks. One of my favorite practice area has trash dumped there repeated (not by people on ATVs). Should cars and trucks be banned?
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That's just what the anti-OHV forces want to hear.
If we're to survive, we OHVers have to group together. That means motorcycles, ATVs, Jeeps, 4x4 and anyone else who values vehicular access to public lands in the US.
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If you're looking for a bike that will happily absorb a diet of No Maintenance, the Montesa shines due to Honda quality standards. But, if you get the Beta, I'm sure you'll be totally happy with it, as they are also well-made machines, but the don't have a company such as Honda behind them.
As far as performance goes, the Montesas are generally mellower and, therefore, easier to ride than their Beta 270 counterparts. I have a 1998 Montesa Cota 315R and it still feels good to ride.
You've got a good choice, so no matter which machine you choose, you'll make the right decision.
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5. Put an identical ding on the opposite side so everything matches.
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Ahhhh, that is exactly the need for them. They teach you the basics.
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As far as the credibility at Beta's press department goes, I'd love for you to comment on this:
"The centre of gravity of the new REV 4T has been moved noticeably higher so as to offer the rider maximum handling feel for trials riding. The new overall weight distribution instils more confidence when negotiating obstacles."
If that's the case, did Beta raise the center of gravity on the 2-stroke?
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