hrmad

Thanks burns1989. The brakes weren't binding, but a friend and I took apart the front brake caliper anyway. One side the cylinders had seized, we removed them all and cleaned the inside of the calipers. Then took several hours trying to bleed the brakes, fluid was going through without a problem, and the brakes worked initially but under use became worse. Managed to bleed them properly, the front brake is working, but does fade under continuous pressure. I'll keep practicing on it for now, but hopefully on friday we'll replace the pads (which looked sintered like road pads, too hard), replace the master cylinder and the throttle cable which is starting to look frayed at one end. Hopefully these niggles will get sorted before this Sunday, got my first trial This thread is a good example of making sure you do your research and know what a good bike runs like first before buying, I've made a mistake paying what I did for the bike and not noticing these faults upon first inspection. Ah well, no regrets, the bike is getting there and I've learned a lot! Thanks to everyone for all their input

Hi burns, Gone with a 66:1 mixture at the moment, I'd rather not risk a seized engine and this is recommendation I could find in the online manual. As for jetting, the standard in the beta manual said 150 main, we found a 140 on there when we took her apart. We also cleaned out all the jets, adjusted the float level tabs, put new reeds on there, a bp5es instead of a 6 and then made minor adjustments as mentioned to air/ fuel mix screw and idle. The bike is running much better after these changes, if the plug still fouls after these changes then it will be worth repacking the exhaust. If that fails, as you've said, changing the jets. Just need to run the bike for a bit and see how it goes. I'm sure more minor adjustments will be made in the future, hopefully when I get good enough at this trials business to need more power at the top end! Another problem has surfaced today, front brake problem. Bled the brakes soon after buying the bike and was told there are new pads on there by the previous owner. Bike squeaks when the front brake is not engaged, braking is not progressive or very effective with the lever pulled right in. Also doesn't feel like there is enough pressure on the lever. Going to try to get the front wheel off the ground tomorrow to check for any binding, could just be dirt between the pads and disc.

Thanks for the link b40rt, very informative Put the new reed plates on today, put the carb back on, turned the air fuel mix 1 and 1/2 turns, lowered the idle speed slightly and put in a bp5es plug. The bike has improved a lot, went well today for two hours practice or so. I'll ride the bike again tomorrow and see how it goes. It's a lot smoother at lower rpms and isn't smoking as much as before. You can really tell the difference, it's much nicer to ride.

Hey Bill, Thanks, I'll have a look for spark plug cleaning tutorials, might come in handy. As for the silencer, we took it off when replacing the bones around the air box and I don't recall it being overly heavy. It's something to try if the reeds and 5 plug don't solve the issue. Thanks again for the advice. We did check the float height and made minor adjustments to the tabs. The chamber wasn't flooded with fuel when we removed the carb, don't see a problem there. Hi Worldtrialchamp, the boyeson reeds finally came today. I've left the bike at the workshop, I will get down there on Monday, fit the reeds and try the new plug then. Hopefully she'll be running well by next Sunday, a local trial is on that I want to try the novice line on. thanks for asking

Tried Rock Oil spray on chain lube, too sticky. Cleaned with gunk, used wd40 to dispel water. Once dry, put some of my dads universal tractor oil on the chain, seems to work fine so far. A lot less dirt and muck on the chain.

jfc: Thanks, I will try the bp5es. I'll have a look at the packing in the exhaust when I get to the bike again, she's down my friends workshop at the moment. Hey Bill. The reeds are definitely not as they should be, I've ordered some boyesen trials ones which weren't crazy expensive. Still waiting for them in the post. We'll have to see how it affects things when she is running. The old plug had also gone black and was too short. Maybe it was an attempt to treat the symptom not the cause, or ignorance on the previous owners part. I don't know. I went through 4 plugs just testing if the plug would foul without the air filter, which it did and tried a 6 instead of a 7, next will be a 5. My Dad and my friend are quite dismissive of the exhaust packing being a problem, but as the packing is generally 12 pounds or under I do personally think it is worth doing. I just don't want to do it wrong and cause more damage on my own. I took a look at the online manual for this beta, the standard jets were 150 main, 30. I think there was a 140 on there when we checked, if all else fails I suppose we could put it back to standard- although am I right in thinking a bigger number = richer? Can't find the standard set up for needle, will try out what you have suggested. Tried flipping the reeds round, still worn and not looking right. Not a difficult fix. So, will try bp5es in bike, change reeds and adjust needle. If problems persist, I will change the packing once the bike is home. If plug fouling still occurs after that jet changes as suggested. Thanks everyone

No worries Bill, we've all got to fund the bikes somehow, hehe. My friend took the carb apart today and showed me how to do it and put it back together correctly. The carb looked clean, Jets weren't blocked up, we adjusted the tabs slightly. The main jet is 140, we're considering going to a 130 to see if it improves matters. We also checked the choke, it was working correctly and closing correctly. We also took off the reed valve, there was a problem there. The petals weren't fully closing, so I am going to try to find some new ones online, along with the gasket. We took a look through the gap where the valve was, the cylinder and piston were both in good condition- one thing to be thankful for! Number 6 plugs have been fouling within an hour, if it continues after the reed valve fix we could try a 5.

Maybe, I have remembered to turn the tap off when she's not running, but I don't know what sort of treatment the bike had before

Around 80 quid for a new case, you can get aluminium ones. I did a repair on mine with an epoxy type resin, cost 5 pounds, new gasket around 8, has done the trick so far, worth trying if there is corrosion.

There is a clear sight glass on mine, the oil will look cloudy/ milky if coolant is getting in. Only real way to check is by draining out the coolant and taking the waterpump cover off, if the oil looks fine and the clutch engages properly when cold I wouldn't worry. Light gear oil is a good idea, as is Factory Line organic coolant by Motul.

Worth a go, thanks Sorry about the video, it should work now. The choke doesn't seem to be a switch as such. You pull it up to open, and push down to close as far as I know- it doesn't seem to go any other way. I don't know how it is on other betas of this type and with this type of carb. Time to do some research... Thanks again for all the advice, I will get the problem sorted out one way or the other!

Hi, I've got a 200 of the same year. Haven't noticed a problem with the rear suspension. Air filter ideally cleaned after every ride. I'm planning on changing the gear box oil at least once a month, or after 2 trials- which ever comes first. Don't make the same mistake I did, check to see if the waterpump housing is magnesium, if so it is prone to corroding and coolant can get into the gearbox oil. Beta clutches can stick from cold too, but there is a mod on the forum that can greatly help. Mikuni carbs can cause issues for some people (fuel leaking, not starting downhill etc.) All worthwhile things to check out before you buy otherwise, betas are good bikes, I'm no expert but I hope this helps.

video problem sorted, soz!

Thanks again Bill. I'm doing the same, carrying a spare plug and plug spanner with me. Intending to get a small bag to carry around during a trial, just in case. I think it may well come to going into the carb, hehe, thanks. Went out for an hour again today, without a filter to test. Plug still had carbon deposits- so I can rule out a dirty filter. I won't run it like it again, conditions weren't wet or dusty today and this was a one off. Also running 70:1, plus hardly any smoke ticking over at idle. Running a 6 plug, still problems. This is the bike running after 20 minutes of riding around warming her up, I think he is ok at idle, problems begin at top end. Revving the bike produces a lot of smoke, it doesn't sound right to me and it feels a bit bogged down when riding. The throttle response isn't crisp enough I don't think. With the carb, I'm assuming the screw circled red is the idle screw? Is the one circled by blue air intake? Will adjusting either of these help or do you reckon this will require getting into the carb? Thanks for all the help from everyone so far, getting there slowly. I'm happy to report the automatic takeoffs when cold have been greatly improved!

Thanks Mags. I bought 05 decals, then cut and adapted them to the bike. It's unique at least, hehe, I just want to get some red after market foot pegs and rear brake lever when I have the funds. Thanks for the advice about cleaning, when I told my dad about using washing up liquid he seemed shocked, haha, very old school- water must be kept away from everything! But I'll try that method out, may not use oil on the filter next time (I've used Rock Oil filter foam spray).

I was running a 7 in there, if a BP6ES doesn't help I'll try the 5, thanks. Thanks Bill. The front fender may well be the wrong way round, or just plain bent courtesy of the previous owner. At the moment it doesn't seem to be affecting the front wheels rotation though. Mud scrapping may come in handy over the winter... I'll move the clutch lever and housing up to try it out, thanks. The oil has leveled out to half way up the sight glass after running her today, maybe it just needed to circulate. It's looking like oil should look too, so the fix has worked for now. I'll try an 80:1 mix then, simplest possible solution first. I have just cleaned and oiled the air filter, maybe too much oil added. I'll run her tomorrow without the filter for a short time to see if it makes a difference. After that I'm working the rest of the week, so it would be a good time to clean the filter again and let it dry. I have another on order so whilst one is getting cleaned the other is ready to use. I hope it's not a carb issue, I haven't had any problems with fuel leaking or starting, just the matter of the plug. I'll leave alone for now. Dogbones sounds about right! We replaced some missing screws where the pieces were attached to the air box and greased the rest. Hopefully shouldn't have any problems for a while, will check in six months. And thanks for your advice in the other thread, I will try to implement it and do another video after some more practice. Ta, Heather

some before and after pics for ya, new stickers and board, hehe Fouled a new plug within an hour this morning, An NGKBP7ES, I'm going to try a 6 in it next time, gapped to 0.6mm. Also, is it worth trying out an air filter without filter oil on it? Will have an attempt at adjusting the mixture on the carb when the engine is hot to see if it makes a difference. This was with the fuel at 60:1. On the bright side the oil is still as it should be, and holding the clutch in with a elastic band whilst she is warming up has helped the clutch sticking issue a lot. The clutch has improved. Just gotta solve these fouled plugs.

Thanks Mags. I think there are a few niggles still to sort out, I want the bike to run as well as is possible. The clutch has improved. If I knock him up to 4th or 5th with the engine off and rock him back and forth the plates do release. It feels better on the lever too. The brakes have also benefited from being bled. And thank your wife for me, if you ever visit wet and windy Wales give me a shout, riding in welsh mud is certainly an experience

Thanks for the advice about the oil. I'd be worried about seizing at 100:1. At the moment I'm running her at 50:1 on putoline mx5. Might try 70:1 to see if it solves the problem of the the plug. ta, Heather

Thanks TAF. I feel very fortunate that trials central is here, there is so much information about the bike I would have been lost without. The gasket arrived, put her back together today and put in some motul factory line coolant, hopefully it'll do the trick. A new seal and cir-clip for the waterpump went on and a new magnetic drain plug for the gearbox. I've filled her up with light gear oil and put in 500ml as recommended by some here. Why does the glass look empty after I've filled her up, does 50ml make that much of a difference? I also found one of the brackets for the gearbox was cracked, replaced both of those- rather elaborate attachments to the rear shock and the exhaust- tricky to put back together! The spark plug has blackened within two rides (definitely the correct plug) Anyone have an explanation? Thanks everyone for the help so far.

Thanks for all the advice and help I took it down to my friends workshop today and we worked on the bike. Got the clutch case off, thanks worldtrialchamp. The corrosion hadn't gone all the way through, but it didn't take much drilling out before we made a hole through to the case. Cleaned out all of the corrosion with a grinder then applied a sealant. Hopefully it will hold and work for now. I acknowledge the bike will need a new clutch casing once the sealant looses adhesion. It would not have taken long to eat right through the magnesium. Where I believe water was getting in was the inner clutch case gasket. It had rotted and fell apart when we removed the casing. There were also signs that it had slipped in places and may have been that way for a long time. I've got a new clutch case gasket on the way, we have replaced the water pump shaft and seal. Used sealant on the water pump housing and have put a new o ring on the clutch case cover. I've got the silkonene gear oil and organic coolant people on here have recommended. We've also bled both brakes, bled the clutch. Taken the chain off for a clean, adjusted the throttle for free play and made a spacer for it. The two pieces that hold the air box are damaged (I'm guessing flipping the bike during a wheelie) so I have ordered two of these. Put on a new set of stickers to jazz him up, new number board and I will get some nice wide after market pegs when money allows. New stand and bracket as the old one had snapped off. Adjusted the suspension, handle bar controls to suit. At least the engine turns over well, no starting issues baring poor technique in the beginning. I bend the other leg too now I have contacted the previous owner to ask if he was aware of these issues, he hasn't got back in touch- surprise surprise. Was 1300 a lot to pay for a bike of this age and condition? I feel like I've been a bit of a fool. A few friends have told me to sell the bike, I'd rather do her up to a high standard, I wouldn't sell a bike with problems to someone and riding a trials bike is too much fun

Nice vid, the tash was somehow distracting though, hehe. And your beta looks like a very clean bike, nice. It's good to see sections marked out clearly, not always the case. I went to watch an A grade trial locally last month and it was a bit of a struggle to work out the routes! How was the first trial you went to, was it quite daunting?

Does anyone know how to remove the shaft and seal? Do you need to take off the clutch case to remove the shaft? The impeller doesn't spin on it

thanks sherconoob, I need to get a handle on balancing first I think, maybe in another year, haha! There is so much technique and body positioning to it, trials is interesting

Ta Mags. I'm not sure if I can get away with epoxy and organic coolant or if I should buy a new waterpump/ clutch case. It seems to be a reoccurring problem with betas. One owner of a 200 in that article said the 200s have aluminium casings and not magnesium, I'm not so sure. A replacement would probably be better but more expensive. Thanks for the advice about flushing the system, will do before putting in new coolant. To repair or replace, that is the question...