christiank

I'm almost certain that's not where the air leak is but it's certainly worth a try.

A little progress happening. I lapped the head and cylinder mating surfaces together. I also tried a very thin film of ultra black sealant on the cylinder base gasket. Compression is still bad but it's up to 45psi, triple what it was before. In the next few days I'm going to try a pressure test even though I think it's seeping air at the cylinder base gasket. I'm not sure how to rectify that yet. I also readjusted the clutch with some direction from Larry. That helped once I started to get a little more compression and the clutch plates seemed to be slipping a bit.

Thanks, Larry. I'll get back to you in a bit.

Just found a hairline crack on the cylinder sleeve by one of the flanges. While problematic I'm probably going to try a few things as is. I'm not ready to put more money into this bike as it sits now. I'm going to try to lap the head and cylinder mating surfaces together to make sure they are a nice seal. I'm also going to try some sealant along with the base gasket just to see what happens. Before that I'll probably try a pressure test. I found Saw Miller's pressure setup and I'll try that. I'm going to step away and work on something, anything, else for a bit.

I do have the the inner crank seals backwards. I called Hugh's Bultaco and he said I should be getting more compression even if the seals were in wrong. I'll go in and fix that. Just took the top end off. Piston and rings are sealing well. I'm at a loss for the moment.

For the hell of it I hooked up the compression gauge to see what it read. It maxed out at about 15-20 PSI. This is the first time I've worked on a two-stroke so I don't even know if a regular compression test means anything on a two-stroke.

It just doesn't seem like there is much resistance when kicking it. Almost like there is no difference with the head on or off. Larry - There are two crank seals on each side. I have both springs facing out which seems to be how the manual I'm reading says to do it although it is somewhat vaguely worded so it sounds like that is incorrect.

Graham - The o-ring on the crankshaft behind the seal and spacer is in there. I didn't inspect it closely but it looked intact.

Got around to installing the new crank oil seals. No luck on starting up though. Poor compression seems to be the issue but I can't figure out why. - New piston and and bored out cylinder - New cylinder base gasket - New crank oil seals Sprayed WD40 on all case matings looking for air leaks. Nothing noticable. Back at it tomorrow for some more investigating. Some pictures from the crank oil seal install.

Quick update...got a new piston and the cylinder bored from Hugh's. The top end is back together but compression still sucks. Ordered and received new crankshaft oil seals. So that's next and hopefully enough to get this bike going.

Finally got some more time to mess with this bike. No more ice this year though. Once I get it running I'll probably take the studs out of the tires and hit some dirt. So I checked compression and it was bad. It has a cracked ring and a decent divot missing from the front of the piston. Well, it's not missing it's embedded in tiny pieces in the top of the piston and head. We're going to get a new piston and I should be able to clean the head up. The cylinder sleeve all looks clean so that's good.

Small update...I drove up to Hugh's two weeks ago and picked up a manual and some basic maintenance parts. I pulled of the stator to check connections on the ignition. I cut out all of the poor electrical connections and put on new plug caps and plugs. Now we've got some spark, albeit not the strongest spark I've seen. I just need to finish putting the clean carb back together and put in some new fluids and see if she starts up.

Thanks stevem75. I was actually browsing though Hugh's site last night. I might actually drive up there and check it out and get what I need.

I took the Amal 1038 carb apart and will give it a good cleaning soon. The electrical is only four wires but it's a mess so I'll clean all of that up. One plug cap was missing and the other is practically broken off. It has a Femsatronic ignition. There doesn't seem to be any provisions for a battery. Can this setup run without a battery? I've built a few bikes with capacitors instead of batteries but I don't know anything about this Femsatronic setup. Femstaronic: IB ELC2-5 Stator: JA GEA1-10 The wiring was setup is only four wires total… - Red and green from stator to femstraonic - Black from femsatronic to the kill switch - Ground from the Femsatronic mounting bolt to the frame I also pulled the stator-side cover off. Hopefully I'll dig up a manual soon.

Here's a better photo.

Thanks Ibhbul. I'm in New York. The bike is at the back of a pile of about 20 bikes. Once I get to it I will be able to investigate what the situation with the ignition is.

@feetupfun Thanks for setting me straight. Now to find some manuals.

A guy in my garage has a Bultaco that was setup as an ice racer and I am about to pull it out of a pile of bikes to see if I can get it running. I don't know anything about Bultaco's except what I've read about in the last two hours. I looked up the engine serial number but I still don't quite understand what I'm looking at. Engine: M-10600133 (first number has a scratch that made it look like a "4" which really threw me off for a couple hours) Frame: B-680242 3 ? - I can't quite make out the last number/letter I think the serial number is telling me that the engine is a mid-60's M10 Sherpa T. Is that right? I've been reading that M10 should have radial fin heads. It looks like it was a race bike so maybe somebody put a newer top-end on the m10 bottom end. Is that possible? Edit: It's a M106. Thanks to feetupfun for setting me straight. I'm going to drop and replace all of the fluids, clean the Amal 1038 carb, and make sure everything seems mechanically intact. I'm told it has no spark and that it needs a new coil and battery so I'll investigate once I get the bike on the lift. Thanks, Christian