dan williams

These are pretty much what they read new. I have yet to see significant wear on Beta clutch plates. Nominal is 2.7mm with the two thicker plates used in the newer bikes at 3mm.

A little over a week to the start of the NETA season. Wayne Galvin and the King Philip Trails Riders have been working hard through all the snow storms to make it happen. TrialsFlyer-2018.pdf

It usually takes a couple of oil changes to get completely rid of wonky oil so you may be in for more work. I’m kind of surprised though as the motul is spec’d for wet clutch. Then again most bikes don’t have trials clutches. We are a bit weird in how we use the thing.

10% off!! Son of a ***** all I got was a hat! Just kidding, I think you’ll really enjoy the way the bike runs with them. Especially slow hill climbs.

In 33 years I have. The carbon reeds are stronger than the stock fiberglass reeds so they can be made thinner and more resilient. That means they open and close faster which holds more charge in the crankcase which improves power delivery off idle. I can pull a gear higher with the VForce reeds than with stock. I bought two sets of the CarbonTech when I thought I couldn’t get the VForce for my new bike but I found the VForce reed block for an older KTM65 fit the Beta if you swap the petals so I didn’t try the CarbonTechs yet. They’re just sitting there gathering dust. So yeah, the first mod I do to any new bike is carbon fiber reeds. Love ‘em!

Get a heavier spring for the front and rear. That way you can run minimum preload. The shock has nothing to do with the loaded height of the suspension other than being a holder for the spring. OK it has minimal to do with it. You need some space in the shock for the oil volume displaced by the shaft to go. When you compress the shock the gas pressure in the shock goes up because the internal space is less and since the oil can’t compress the gas does. So why pressurize the shock? Because if you don’t the pressure swings cause the gas in the shock to go into solution with the oil. Like CO2 in a bottle of soda. High pressure drives the gas into solution and low pressure allows it to come out of solution. After a few strokes you’ve foamed the oil to the point where its damping properties are unpredictable to say the least. By keeping the gas under pressure the gas that is in solution in the oil stays there so the oil can’t foam.

To be copied in the US. ?

So how did you make out with this?

No they’ll charge you a convenience charge for not interfering. That’s how a bureaucracy works.

Heh heh British television. The cap has a resistor in it that limits the rise time of the spark current. That reduces the radio frequency electromagnetic waves emitted by the wire. So yeah, the BBC thanks you.

You’ve come to the right place. Welcome back.

Typically the replacement caps have a threaded point that screws onto the lead into the center core where the conductor is. Nothing too complex unless Honda has some special weirdness I don’t know about.

LiPo and Li-ion batteries have not come down in price as fast as hoped. It's impossible for any of these companies to sell a bike for what they had expected to be able to sell them. It's going to be a few years for battery prices to come down to where these can be mass market bikes.

Did you do the tab polish part of the mod? The steels can get polished after a while and can use a dressing with fine emory cloth to break up the surface glaze. Do you have enough play in the master cylinder for the piston to return all the way opening the reservoir port? If not pressure will build up in the hydraulics and cause slip. Most people seem to run a little less than a full gearbox as it seems to cause a bit of drag.

It looks like EMotion is upping their game.

I know it had no bearing on the original poster’s question but that was fascinating. I’ve never worked on a brit car. It sounds, “interesting”.

Very good advice above. For what it's worth none of us likes bleeding the rear brake. It's always misery.

Ok are we talking new bike vs used? Body type (wee skinny/clydesdale)? Trick riding vs plonker? Comfort vs impact resistance. Two stroke/four stroke? The more info you can give us the better we can help you. You won’t find a more enthusiastic group to help you.

Hmmm I see on the Moto Tassinari site they list those reeds for the 65SX I may have got that wrong saying 85SX but I do remember reading it somewhere. There is a separate piece that fits into the inlet side of the reed cage and I think that is the difference between the various 351 models but they don't show drawings for all of the variants. I wish they did. On bikes that spend 95% of their life at idle to 1/4 throttle the inlet shape will have no effect. For kiddies on little MX bikes where they are wide open all the time it may cause some small incremental loss of power. I bought some of the Carbon Tech reeds as a backup plan but never installed them.

No changes for the reeds but the bike came with a 48 pilot and the needle on the fourth notch so I changed to a 50 pilot and needle to center notch. (Stock settings for my ‘13) I think the leaner set up is for emissions as that’s now part of the technical data on the web site. Along with the security screw on the intake there were different color markings on the carb which makes me think it will soon be tamper proof fuel systems as the norm.

Some years ago but I don’t like the extra flywheel weight.

Any one who has followed my Beta posts for a few years knows that I am a huge fan of the Moto Tassinari VForce carbon reeds. Much to my chagrin Moto Tassinari discontinued the V351C reeds for the Beta and Sherco. I’ve heard various reasons from reed life to breaking cages and I did have a cage failure some years ago leading to a long push out of the woods. But here’s the thing, the Beta runs soooo good with the VForce reeds that I wanted a set very badly for the new bike. I contacted Moto Tassinari and asked about a set for the new bike and one of their guys said they can build up some for me. Then I never heard back. OK fair enough. He was probably shot down by his bosses. So routing around for an alternative I scoured the website for similar reeds. If you dig deep enough you find the KTM 85SX from a few years back had a reed cage that looks exactly like the standard Beta reed cage, as in Beta buys them from the same manufacturer similar. Hmmm I thought, Moto Tassinari makes a reed for the older KTM 85SX that has almost the same part number as the Beta/Sherco reed V351B. So I bought one. The reed is an exact bolt in and the only difference is the reed petals are 3P412H vs 3P412M (hard vs medium). I had a set of replacement reeds for the previous bike so I disassembled the reed block and replaced the hard reeds with the mediums. The other difference is the original V351C was originally designed for the 26mm Mikuni so there was a lip with the Keihin. With the V351B block there is a slight lip on top and bottom however the opening to the block is a large rectangle so there is in reality much more area. The OEM KTM intake boot (KTM used a Keihin PWK28) looks to be a direct bolt on but I’m not certain until I get one to try. One other thing to note is the reed cage material now seems to be a heavier plastic. Almost like a fiber reinforced plastic. This makes it harder to take apart and snap together and the older 3P412M reeds didn’t fit as well needing a little nudge to get them onto the tabs that hold them. The other thing that was odd was the inner reeds are held in place with a pin that seats them onto their tabs and the reed block I got the pin seems to have been assembled backwards. I plan to talk to Moto Tassinari about that. So how does the new bike run? This weekend was my first time out with the low compression head, carb jetting tweak and VForce reeds. Previously I had two days out on the new bike in stock trim and was stalling all over the place. Yesterday the Beta pulled off idle like a freight train. Power builds smoothly to a respectable top end though it gives a little away on the top due to the low compression head. Fine with me, I don’t spend a lot (any) time at full throttle. Am I happy? Oh Yeah!

Take a look at the clutch fix pinned to the top of the Beta forum. It may help.

That sounds logical. Rode for a good couple hours today and no funny noises.

Well I think the new bike is unimpressed with me. I just changed the pilot to a 50 and moved the needle clip to the middle and it seems to come off idle smoother. So I putted around the back yard for a bit then turned it off and parked it in the garage and it started making raspberry fart sounds at me. Plttttt! Wait a few minutes, PLTTTT! Few more minutes, PLTTTT! I have no idea.