dan williams

The routing of Beta throttle cables isn’t the greatest. Are you bumping up against the cable? Is there any play in the cable? Do you pull the throttle full on before you start the bike to make sure the cable housing is seated?

It’s a horrible situation and the organizers feel worse than any fans but there comes a point where an event is unworkable. The smart thing to do is cut your losses and prepare for better days. Recriminations, name calling and assertions that there is less than heartbreak on the part of organizers doesn’t help. If you’ve got a better idea step up. If you have access to a better venue by all means offer it up. If you have sponsors willing to put up money to cover expenses, excellent. If you have access to a crew of observers, section designers, promotions people, lawyers, ambulance services, porta pottys, stone drills, wrist bands, loop markers, fax machines and computers for press, hotel rooms for FIM officials, portable office trailers, food vendors, ticket sales staff, security, program printers, trophy makers and the thousand other details that are needed on short time without the budget please use your internet access to reach out to the event organizers. That’s what they need to hear.

I think the answer lies more in what parts are in the bin. Traditionally the 200 has been the option that used the leftover parts since it wasn’t a “prime” competition model. A few years ago the bigger models switched over to reversed ignition systems with the stator on the outer cover. The 200 used the older design. It’s likely that the 200 has evolved as old parts stock are exhausted rather than a conscious decision to change the bike.

So has anyone got a 2022 yet? How have the improved graphics affected your riding?😃

It has a hydraulic line coming out the back. Looks like a shock reservoir but much bigger than usual. Or maybe it’s a bold new graphic?😁

The non-factory bikes have the primary gear mounted with rubber dampers on the clutch basket. You may be hearing the flex in that part of the assembly. In the past when I started to think I was hearing something odd from the clutch/primary I’d open it up and typically find nothing out of place. Only exception was a screw backing out because some dumbass (me) didn’t loctite it and it hit the rivets on the back of the primary assembly and there was no mistaking that for “normal” engine noise.😀 I’ve done mods to the clutch and shifter so I may be a little paranoid. Now I just ignore the clunky clattery Beta sound since the mods all seem to be fine.

Well the diaphragm clutch is still a spring. Just a different type. The main difference is it uses half the plates. Less hydraulic drag and more effective clearance between the plates for the same throw.

It sounds like you are missing a ground connection. When the thremo-switch closes the electrics are finding ground through the fan circuit. Some of the earlier Betas (non LED lights) ran their lighting systems off the same ac that feeds the rectifier that feeds dc to the fan. Newer Betas run lights off the dc out of the rectifier. As stated, check for broken wires and good ground connections. Beta has done some creative wiring in the past that has led to these oddball symptoms.

A lot of the semiconductor companies have workable reference designs for motor control and battery management systems.

I’m glad it’s working for you.😁 I’m hoping for the Beta electric so I don’t have to buy all new gear. 🤪

So EM can’t make bikes fast enough. The world is going electric. Beta hasn’t released a major upgrade since 2013. Beta now makes kiddie electrics. So… any rumors on development on a full sized Beta electric?

We are about due for a major redesign.

So the 2022 X-Trainer has a diaphragm clutch. 🤔

Ok. I’m just worried as a few have screwed up their plates and I never want that to happen.

Dammit you guys! Take your time and be careful!

I just noticed FS1 has the California trials invitational on schedule for 9:30am EST today. 5/2/21 sorry for the late notice but I just saw it.

I’ve seen several bikes of different brands that do this stall bog when bounced issue. All Keihins. Check to make sure your choke is closing properly. If the choke is just partially open the bike will do exactly as you describe.

There are times kicking my ‘18 300 feels like kicking a cinder block. The new bikes aren’t always easy kickers.

I’d want to see the plates before I assumed they were “good”. It’s been decades that Beta have been saying “improved” clutch. And each was a half hearted fix that didn’t address the real issues. See the clutch fix thread pinned to the top of this forum.

Yeah I’m not saying it wouldn’t work. I did it too but didn’t see much difference. Then again I’ve done a lot of fine tuning to the clutch. The throw is only ~1.25mm so 0.25mm is a significant number. One other thing is we all have different preferences for clutch behavior.

There is a very small amount of throw. Any play in the mechanism is wasted motion so the shimming is to have the minimum amount of travel before the throwout plate begins to move. The practical upshot is at full actuation the throwout plate is the furthest out possible. Supposedly this helps reduce drag. There is debate about what actually causes the various components of the drag. If there is wear in the mechanism this is may help. Hydraulic actuation mechanisms are supposed to be self adjusting for the initial offset so if the mechanism is working properly shimming the mechanism doesn’t make that much of a difference.

This is the parts list. Only one ring size. https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2005 Rev 125-200 2 stroke.pdf

A set of rings will restore some zip if it’s lacking or hard to start but these chrome bore cylinders don’t wear like the old bikes. If you’re happy with the power and it’s happily humming along it’s fine to just keep riding.

Yes the -208 is just the OEM designation for jets and screws but the float bowl should be the same. As for Mikuni piddling fuel see the pinned thread at the top of the forum.

You typically have to drop the skid plate to drop the rubber bumper under the engine as it holds the case on. Drain the oil. It’s cheap and you’re going to want to check the magnet for teeth anyway. You can pull the cover without draining the coolant but it’s a pain tying it out of the way with the hoses attached but it’s a pain to remove the hoses to. Once you get the cover off I’m sure the failure will be obvious. Hopefully it’s just the starter gear gone but you’ll have to check all the mating gears for damage. If you’re careful you can get away with the same gaskets without a problem. I’d recommend draining the coolant as well. Again it’s cheap. Replace with Engine Ice or Pro-Cool premixed propylene glycol based coolant. This is one of those jobs you fumble through the first time being extra careful and the next time you just pull it apart in about five minutes.