dan williams

There is a very small amount of throw. Any play in the mechanism is wasted motion so the shimming is to have the minimum amount of travel before the throwout plate begins to move. The practical upshot is at full actuation the throwout plate is the furthest out possible. Supposedly this helps reduce drag. There is debate about what actually causes the various components of the drag. If there is wear in the mechanism this is may help. Hydraulic actuation mechanisms are supposed to be self adjusting for the initial offset so if the mechanism is working properly shimming the mechanism doesn’t make that much of a difference.

This is the parts list. Only one ring size. https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2005 Rev 125-200 2 stroke.pdf

A set of rings will restore some zip if it’s lacking or hard to start but these chrome bore cylinders don’t wear like the old bikes. If you’re happy with the power and it’s happily humming along it’s fine to just keep riding.

Yes the -208 is just the OEM designation for jets and screws but the float bowl should be the same. As for Mikuni piddling fuel see the pinned thread at the top of the forum.

You typically have to drop the skid plate to drop the rubber bumper under the engine as it holds the case on. Drain the oil. It’s cheap and you’re going to want to check the magnet for teeth anyway. You can pull the cover without draining the coolant but it’s a pain tying it out of the way with the hoses attached but it’s a pain to remove the hoses to. Once you get the cover off I’m sure the failure will be obvious. Hopefully it’s just the starter gear gone but you’ll have to check all the mating gears for damage. If you’re careful you can get away with the same gaskets without a problem. I’d recommend draining the coolant as well. Again it’s cheap. Replace with Engine Ice or Pro-Cool premixed propylene glycol based coolant. This is one of those jobs you fumble through the first time being extra careful and the next time you just pull it apart in about five minutes.

Just put in enough to see it at the bottom of the sight glass.

Yeah I have an EDG and a Wulfsport jacket and when it’s really cold one of these high-viz coats. But I do really like this old jersey. Funny thing about the high-viz jacket is people get out of your way. They don’t know if you’re a cop or a sewer worker but they step aside and call you sir. It kinda freaks me out to be honest. I won’t wear it to the grocery store anymore. But for riding it’s water and wind proof and really warm. Your buddies can always find you in the woods. And it’s only about $70. Quite a bargain. https://www.utilityprowear.com/collections/mens-outerwear/products/uhv1004-contractor-coat

Just putting this out there. I have one of the Ritratto fleece material jerseys that were the official Beta items. It's great for cooler weather. Is there anything similar made by any of the manufacturers. All they talk about in their ads is breathable polyester. Personally if I could find a stock of these old Beta jerseys I'd snap 'em up.

Is the HT2 carbon out of production now. Can’t find it anywhere and the web pages are giving me the ‘ol 404.

Neatsfoot oiled my old Gaernes. Despite the instructions I laid it on quite thick contrary to instructions. Made the boots supple and waterproof again. I think the instructions to do multiple, thin coats is for “fashion” accessories. Not too concerned with the Gaernes color. Still eventually dried and looked the same anyway.

Had mine done at Pro-BootMX in the US. Look like new. I provided the soles but they will provide them. Gotta be an equivalent in the UK.

As these things get more computerized it may be time for them to have a “limp home mode”.

I noticed that too. Adjusted for cold then had to adjust back for warm. Gotta love the S3 adjuster screws.?

Of course it modifies friction. Kinda the whole point of oil. Motor oil has been recommended in wet clutch transmissions for many years. The trick is to get just the right amount of slip for your particular style of riding and the oil I’ve been using has been perfect for me but the change in ambient temperature and clutch behavior just got my interest. Just like jetting and suspension settings there is value in incremental changes to fine tune system behavior. This is just another opportunity to learn. Believe me I’ve tried many different types of oil to arrive at the oil I’m using.?

Went out on a rail trail riding with my wife on her CRF150f. Ambient temp about 7C. First real chilly ride. Huge clutch slip in 6th until the EVO’s gearbox warmed up. Normal after warmed up. Currently running 10W-30 Castrol Titanium Edge motor oil in gearbox. After we got back I measured case temp with IR thermometer. 46C. Her bike was much warmer at about 65C. Kinda surprised how cool the Beta was running. Not looking for any information just making observational notes. Time to try the 0W-20 in the gearbox and see how it feels in colder weather. Experiment time.? I’ll be sure to report if the transmission explodes.

I think one is lights. The other is placebo?. Supposed to be engine map switch but nobody I ride with can tell the difference. So it gets switched now and then just because it’s there. Kinda like the old Steve Wright joke, In my house there's this light switch that doesn't do anything. Every so often I would flick it on and off just to check. Yesterday, I got a call from a woman in Germany. She said, "cut it out!"

Smoothing the tabs is what makes the clutch engagement/disengagement smooth. Cleaning the glue is only about the cold stick. The washers are only a fine tune. They do seem to allow you to put the sweet spot of the engagement where you want it. My bike still has a tiny bit of hydraulic drag but it's not enough to notice riding and is greatly reduced once the gearbox heats up. Riding in the rain/fallen leaves/pine needles yesterday and I still love the way my bike runs and rides now.

Looks like Mitas or Duro from what I can find. Are they gonna stick like a proper modern tire? Highly unlikely but then again you probably won’t know the difference.?

Wow! Learn something new every day.?

Bold new graphics?

When you think about it the plates should rattle some when the clutch is pulled in. They are free to move and the crank speed isn't constant through rotation. I know on the Beta after the clutch mod the fiber plates rattle more.

Can’t argue with success.?

Yeah it’s a crap design. They usually punch out almost immediately.

Maybe because mine doesn’t have the bleed nipple, just a button head screw. Point taken.