dan williams

There's some fundamental internal difference in the Sachs manufactured Paioli design. I tried to get the screw off mine and ran into the same issue. Finally got it to tighten up again and called it a day.

Try removing the flywheel weight first to see if you like it with less flywheel. Easier to do one step at a time.

I agree there doesn't seem to be anything other than the splined washer that looks remotely like this. Two questions being, Why did it fail and what effect will it have on the gearbox. The only thing I can think of was one of the snap rings on the shaft was not properly placed or broke. I'm afraid you're in for a case split. Have you noticed any weirdness in shifting or unusual noises?

That’s unfortunate. You may be best served by putting in a lower compression head. If it makes you feel any better I run the S3 low comp head in my Beta and aside from it not squirting out from under me as often it really hasn’t lost anything.

Well in all fairness the idea of soliciting opinion on a public forum is to see if an event is more than an outlier. If it happens to one, a few or many. Since we are rarely a statistically significant group locally it’s nice to be able to ask the rest of the world.

What fuel are you running? With a high compression ratio octane rating is critical. You can jet richer to reduce preignition but then you are throwing away power. This can be especially bad if the ignition advance is aggressive. Beta's were notorious for this.

One of those things a lot of people do but not on a conscious level.

I know that drill. My wife has to color coordinate her grips. Not even gonna mention the riding outfit. ?

If you mean a lot of work for no benefit I agree. But like buying her titanium screws and other goodies I figure she's good to me so I should spoil her. ? She's put up with the indignity of repeated teardowns just to figure out how she works and still runs like new. Good bike.

Yeah that's "normal". Beta replaced the two outer plates with slightly thicker plates so you will have four 2.7mm thick frictions and two 3.0mm thick frictions. Not sure of the logic behind this. I usually replace the 3.0mm thick plates with a couple of the 2.7s and dress them all to the Clutch Fix document. Or you could just dress the 3.0mm plates like the others and put it back together. The newer plates are a lot less gluey so the removal of the glue between the pads is optional. The older plates were a mess.

Neutral is always difficult because the neutral notch on the cam is smaller and in between two larger notches. As pointed out clutch drag doesn’t help either. I find getting neutral from first almost impossible. From second just a light tap on the lever usually gets it but it’s not a sure thing.

I had custom indexers made to improve the shifting on my 300 and they look the same on the diagram. Can you get a pic of the shifter mechanism on your sons bike. Also what year is it so I can see if they take the same part numbers.

Would probably look better without the fork guards but forks are expensive.

Covid boredom project. White plastic. Bold No Graphics.

Now there’s a question you don’t wan’t to ask.?

As do we all. I had the kick stand on my current ‘18 on the longest of any bike for years but took it off end of last year when it got wobbly and I got tired of re-tightening only to have it get loose again a few hours later. Fortunately here in New England there’s a tree every two feet so it’s usually no big deal.

Yeah they never quite get back to the original shape plus they turn into butter once bent.

With every part intended to be as light weight as possible the sidestand is only meant to hold up the bike. I took a friend with a Harley out to ride trials bikes and the first thing he did was sit on the bike on its stand. Instant bent stand.

First time I’ve done it but I have been on Betas since ‘89. Really wasn’t necessary but I didn’t like the damage I’d done to the back of the assembly so I figured I’d just get it done. The clutch has actually been really good.

In the process of experimenting with the shifter I messed up by not properly loctite-ing the cam screw which backed out and scratched up the back of the basket. Still worked fine but looked hack. Since the basket is getting grooved it’s time to atone for the sin of not using loctite and replace the basket hardware. I’ve also noticed significant wear on the throwout bearing. And something else which is a bit weird. The throwout bearing has become magnetic and is picking swarf out of the tranny oil. Maybe that’s why the bearing is a bit rough? Much smoother after a flush.?

You’re a better man than I. I tried to drop the fork on my 2018 to look at the internals and ran into the same issue. Screw loose but not releasing. Couldn’t get it to tighten either. Much bodging of tools and many bad words later got it back in and haven’t touched it since. I’ve been into a lot of Paiolis but these Sachs forks are a different animal despite looking the same.

Sounds like you’ve picked yourself quite a project. Good luck and let us know your progress.

It works ok but it did before. I’m just weirded out by the basket moving. That could only happen with play in the transmission input shaft. I’m still trying to sort out how the logic of this shakes out. The Japanese video shows no movement of the basket and some dead travel before the throwout mechanism engages the pressure plate. I’ll pull the whole thing next week probably but I want to ride tomorrow so it’s fine for now. Not trying to fix a problem. Just trying to understand.?

The learning continues... so with Ward’s success with the spacer washers I decided to throw some in my bike out of pure curiosity. My clutch wasn’t having a drag problem except a bit while cold but it can’t hurt to give it a try. I’ve always thought this shouldn’t work since the actuator mechanism should be self adjusting to take up play in the mechanicals caused by wear. So before pulling the pack with the clutch access cover off I pulled the lever to see if there was any dead zone in the actuation. The pressure plate moved immediately, as it should, but then I noticed something else. The basket also moved about 0.5 mm. Huh? Pulled the pack and checked the hub nut. Tight and locked in place. Tried manually pulling on the basket. Tiny almost undetectable movement. Actuate the clutch without the pack, no effect on basket. Re-assemble pack with two 0.25 washers and actuate lever. Pressure plate moves immediately and basket has no movement. Put cover back on for test ride and clutch feels slightly different. So here’s what I think is going on. Without the shims the entire clutch pack including the basket is able to move as a unit determined by the play in the basket. This pushes the clutch slave piston rest position back from the optimum position adding slack in the clutch actuation that cuts into the full throw of the actuator. I have to sit down and figure out exactly how the mechanicals interact. If anybody wants to give me a sanity check on this I’d appreciate it. Pull off the clutch cover, actuate the lever and feel the basket to see if it’s moving with the pressure plate.

Try dressing the steels with fine emery cloth. 2.7mm is nominal thickness. At least that is what I’ve always measured.