dan williams

True but that’s how it becomes your experience.?

I do have indexers I made with better bearings that should fit your bike. Let me know if you need one.

Shouldn't have damaged the seal which is internal to the master cylinder but will destroy the dust cover. Beta rear brakes are always a pain to bleed. I find it necessary to crack the banjo bolt at the top of the master cylinder as that's where the bubbles settle being the high point of the system. Also, given the flexibility of the disk, you may have to put pressure on the disk to get the pistons on both sides to be equal. What happens is one piston can be out a little more than the other and instead of self centering like they would in a car with a big thick disk the further out piston will push the disk over to the other piston. This makes the brakes soft. The way to check it is to actuate the brake with a finger on the edge of the disk near the caliper. If you feel the disk move the pads are not properly centered. If it does apply the brake and gently apply pressure opposite to the movement of the disk. Remember you're just pushing the disk back to center. Don't use any kind of tool as you don't want to bend the disk. It might take a few times. The end goal is to be able to apply the brake and not feel the disk deflect but stay centered between the pads.

The original mod of polishing the ends of the fiber tabs smooth works on any bike that has poorly finished plates. The newer plates seem to have a much better application of glue so the cleaning out between the pads is not so important anymore. Since you have the four stroke with all six 3mm thick fiber plates you do have the option of putting in the kevlar plates from Barnett. The finish on them is beautiful. I do have a set I could send up if you want them. I never used them but bought them to see if they would work on the 2t. They're just a tiny bit too thick for the 2t.

Geez that sounds like your indexer bearing has fallen off. As weird as it sounds this may be a best case scenario as it sounds like the cam/indexer interface is gone kapow! like a Don Martin cartoon. I think when you get the clutch basket off it'll be pretty obvious. Anything external to the cases is pretty easy to replace.

Not being able to get only two gears makes me think he’ll end up having to split the cases since the external mechanism is the same for all gears. I’ll have to look at the gear diagram to see if there’s a common element to 4th and 5th. I suppose a good question is, What do you mean you can’t select them? Do they just act as neutral or can you not just get out of 3rd or when you upshift the box just rejects the shift. Can you get into 6th? The more info we have the better the debug.

Someone just posted on FB a comment on having a cracked spark plug cap. Good reminder. I’ve also seen it necessary to cut about ten mm of the spark cable and reattach the spark cap.

First I’d pull the primary drive off including the clutch and with the bike on a stand spin the rear wheel while turning the shift cam to make sure the cam and shift forks are working. Unless you see something obvious you may be forced to split the cases to look for bent or worn shift forks. Beta uses an aluminum shift drum which will wear after long term use. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Betas with a trigger coil ignition are notorious for failures in the trigger circuit. The symptoms are similar to what you describe. Runs sometimes. Then won’t start. Then after a while starts but runs crappy. They usually show spark but never enough to get a timing light on it so it could be sparking anywhere in the cycle. It’s become the standard recommendation to just send the stator off to a rewinding house to have it checked and usually they will tell you it’s broken. The good news is a rewound stator is cheaper than new and in all cases I have dealt with has fixed the problem permanently. The new bikes don’t use a trigger coil. So Beta peeps, any recommendation for rewinders? Does West Country still do Beta stators? Looks like trialsport also does rewinding and they have a video of their test jig. Shed engineering at its finest.

The 07-08 had a slightly different frame to the earlier Rev3s. The main spar/tank is smaller. I’m unsure of any engine changes. Probably nothing you’d notice anyway. All the usual Beta issues, eroding cases near the water pump. Especially if you don’t use propylene glycol coolant. Electrical system dodgyness. On my 08 the ground for the electrical system was a lug captive behind the headlight mount. Extremely bad idea. If yours is still connected that way find the main ground junction in the wiring harness and run a separate ground wire to a hard ground on the frame. I added two, one to the regulator stud and one to the ignition coil mount. I always ran 80:1 oil with racing fuel. It’s a good bike with a few mods. Almost forgot to mention bold new graphics.?

Funny you should say that. All the PWK28 Keihins I’ve seen only have one vent open even though Beta puts two hoses on them.?

Just ride the ox or is that a typo??

No I’m saying the fan “controller” is in the radiator but you need the regulator to run the fan. Semantics.

The rectifier/regulator that takes the ac from the lighting coils and makes 12V dc is in the headlight but the switch that controls the fan is the thermal switch in the radiator. The fan runs on the 12V dc as does any LED lights and possibly the microcontroller in the CDI. Any incandescent bulbs can run directly off the ac from the lighting coil.

It sounds normal on video but it's tough to tell anything not blatantly broken. The hill is probably not the most critical way to test. More its response to quick burst of throttle to get up a step.

Ok so I got my McMaster McWashers. Gonna try this out.

I have several friends that were hurt on trials bicycles. Those damn things are dangerous! I had a 2000 Rev3. I actually liked the upside down forks but they got a bad rap for flexing and making the steering imprecise. There was an aluminum fork brace you could get to make the front end stiffer. They say you should never buy the first year of a major change to a model but I really liked that 2000. Of course compared to the 2018 it's like steering the Queen Mary but for a starter bike it will be fine.

Unless you're an expert burning your clutch to do 8' splatters the clutch will last many years. Worst case you may have to dress the steel plates with fine emery cloth to deglaze them. Trials bikes are very unlike MX bikes so you are unlikely to ever replace a clutch pack for wear. The Sureflex fibers have been mentioned as being no better than stock. The Barnett plates are things of beauty but are only available in 3.0mm thickness where the stock Beta Adige plates are either all 2.7mm, mixed 2.7 & 3.0mm or in the case of the 4 stroke all 3.0mm. The newer plates from Beta seem to be much better as far as the glue goes. I really didn't have to do more on my 2018 than dress the tabs. As is the case with many manufacturers Beta's probably used clutch plates from the same production run for a decade and have only got new plates a few years ago. Trials riders tend to be very picky about controls so we spend hours tweaking them to be just right. Give it a few months on the trials bike trying to go slow and you'll find you notice stuff that never bothered you on any other bike.

Very familiar with the '08 engine. It was probably my post on the VForce reeds. I just ground the protrusions from the face of the Beta manifold and opened up the VForce insert a bit. I've run my Zero's Technos, Rev3s and EVOs on 80:1 to 100:1 on BelRay H1R for years without problems. At 50:1 the mid-muffler and silencer could be pretty gummed up. The transition from pilot to needle goes through the slide cutaway but I don't think that's your problem. The stock jetting for the '08 was pretty close and I think the JHL or JJH needle was stock. I can't remember. One thing to consider is Beta's have high compression engines and really like their octane. They'll usually run mediocre on pump gas. Some will just jet them richer and consider it a job done but it really doesn't solve the problem. An '08 could be due a set of rings. The degradation as the rings wear is so gradual you usually won't even notice but it will lose some of the bottom end and starting will suffer. Also leaks in the intake tract can make the bike somewhat boggy so a shot of starting fluid around the manifold while the bike is running will change the engine note with a leak but I get the impression you know that. WD40 used to work but they changed the propellant from propane to something non-combustible so it doesn't have quite the same effect. When my carb needs a clean I'll usually pull the center tower off. Needs a torx security bit. I forget the size. T20 I think. Trying to diagnose over the internet is such a drag when I'd rather be up to my elbows in an engine or at least be able to hear it in person.

I just read an article where Jordi says they’re looking to release an e-bike in 2020. Ooooooo!

The Keihins are prone to blockages in the pilot jet circuit. Particularly that tiny hole behind the slide. I find that about twice a year I have to do a disassemble and blowout of the passages in the carb. The bike just runs lumpy and lethargic off the bottom when the carb is plugged. I’m also a big fan of the carbon reeds from Moto-Tassinari model V351C. They supposedly don’t make them anymore but others have called them and they have built up a set for them. Makes the bike grunt like an old school Bultaco while still being able to rev. My ‘08 was a fun bike. Solid.

Exactly

It is possible to damage the return spring in master cylinders. If that happens the master cylinder piston may not return properly. One of those weird little things that can be a real pain to diagnose.

Looks good. Keep up the practice since there's not much else to do. How do you like the MSR gloves? I've got some of the older ones and was thinking of buying a few pairs of the ones you're using.

Sounds like you got it under control.