craigrevo

Aparently there are 2 diffrent types of 40mm Marzocchi forks for the gasgas 2005. So the springs are wrong.

Is that how to bodge the wrong part on, or just what you must do to fit stiffer springs? I would rather have the right parts to be honest.

I ordered some Jitsie springs for my 2005 Gas gas Raga 300 but when I came to fit them they are about 1" shorter, but more importantly they are 5mm narrower. This makes them to narrow for the plastic spacer tube. Has anyone incountered this problem or are they the wrong part for my forks? Link to the springs numbers on my fork leg.

It's a 2005 300 raga. I removed the top hat from the slave so I could paint the inside of the case. I've done loads of work on bikes in the past including bleeding clutches but this one is having none of it. So if it's a normal bleeding system it must have a problem. I'm leaning towards the bleed nipple as it is a little loose.

Is there a special procedure to bleeding the Gasgas clutch? So far I've tried standard on off bleeding, reverse bleeding with a syringe, suction bleeding with a syringe, and vacuum bleeding with a mates kit. I'm using atf mineral oil as I use in my KTMs. I've now ordered a new bleed nipple and some LHM fluid to try and rule everything out. The clutch has feel but no engagement.

Cheers Biff, Im going to just ride it now and see how it is.

Yes!!! finaly a result. Im still going to change the clutch basket as it doesnt sound perfect and Ive had to order a thermostat as it still overheated.

Ive sprayed the inside of the clutch cover now so I will know for sure if the marks are old or fresh.

At least now I know the engine is good with all the new parts, and I know what to look for in the future. Ive ordered some new shims for the gearbox to take out the slop and hopfully I will get to ride it a bit.

This was the dent in the tooth!!

Inspect your gears as the tinyest bit of damage to them can cause huge knocking!! This was my bike with a little dent in the clutch basket gear.

Got it!! There was a tiny dent on one tooth of the clutch basket. So I have used a dremel to reshape it. Now it sounds loads better!! Thanks for all your help and advise guys.

You were right lineaway there was a tiny dent in the clutch basket tooth that was not meshing with the primary gear properly. But there is signs of rubbing on the clutch cover. I'm getting excited now because it's nearly fixed but I don't want to rush it back together if there is still an issue with to much end float.

Are there any Gasgas experts on here who can tell me if this movement is normal? If not do you know what might be causing it?

Now this peace of crap is annoying me!! So far I've spent £400 on parts and still it's knocking. I've replaced Kickstart gear Idle gear Clutch basket bearings Clutch main case bearing 3rd gear half bearings Output shaft bearing Flywheel keyway Crank case main bearings. There is about 2mm of out and in play in the clutch basket but i don't know if that is normal or how to fix it if it isn't normal. I've removed the water pump and the knock is still there, so that can be ruled out totally now. This thing is driving me mad.

Do you have any wear on the inside of the clutch cover? I have a knock coming from my engine and when I first took it apart I noticed wear on the clutch cover, but I put it down to old damage that a previous owner had repaired as there wasnt enough metal in the case to be recent. But since I have taken it apart again I decided to open the clutch pack and there was a huge amount of alloy fillings trapped in the top pressure plate. So I think that Crazybond is right about play in the main clutch bearing.

I've got it apart again and I'm convinced it's the bearing that holds the clutch basket now as there is rubbing on the clutch case that I put down to old marks before. As there was no obvious signs of metal flakes, but tonight I opened the clutch pack again and there was loads of alloy flakes trapped in it.

Doh!!

Is it safe to remove the clutch basket and start the engine to try and isolate the knock? If its still there it rules out the gearbox side.

I've put it all back together with new idle gear kickstart gear but the knocking is still there. Any ideas?

Thanks guys I won't be changing the hub bush as I only bought it thinking there was supposed to be another bush on top of that one because the one in the video can be removed with a magnet.

Is there anyway you could remove yours like in the video it sounds like it is pressed in like mine. i will try and post a picture soon.

One more thing, while watching this video he talks about a clutch hub bushing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eucYaEA-Cfc I couldnt see one in my clutch hub so i ordered one from splat shop when it arrived it looks like the part that is pressed in the hub. Is this the same part or should it be fitted over that part?

Cheers, the movement is more in and out shaft movment than side to side, but i will double check as the engine is fully stripped already.