fulltilt

I'm going to hold off for now. I've got an event next weekend and have lots of work to do to my Beta first. I'll get back to you when I get back to the TY. Thanks

I seldom use a gauge, but when I do, it's usually around 3-4 in the rear and about 6 in the front. I just push my thumb in the center of the tread and if I can push it about halfway to the rim, it's good. The front I only push in a little bit and it's good. It isn't just rider weight and tyres, but also terrain makes a difference. I've been told that hard terrain, like mostly rocks, it's easier to control with higher pressure. But slippery, muddy roots, the softer I can go, the better. Like Steve Earle says, it's about preference. I have a few sections that I ride every weekend. If I want to try something new, this is where I go. I have ridden these sections hundreds of times and know what my bike can and can't do, any slight change becomes noticeable. If I were to make a change at an event or a new practice section, how would I know if it was better or worse without a basis for comparison. Every scientist will tell you that you have to have a base line or a "control" subject. Find a place you love to ride and ride the heck out of it. Then make some changes and ride it some more. You'll figure out what works and what doesn't. I really suck at suspension changes, so I have to be systematic like this to get it right, and even then, I usually just guess and ride. I'm, all about riding and having fun. Trophies are just a bonus for a good day and getting lucky. I ride in snow, mud, dry rocks and steep hills; there are all sorts of variables for each terrain, bike, tire, rider, and so on. Foot placement on the pegs, peg placement, bar level, levers and so on, everything comes into play when you are searching for the perfect set up. Just ride, a lot, and you'll learn.

I couldn't find '06 service manual, but this should answer some questions.... http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2012Support/Service%20Manuals/Mototrial/2009-2012%20Evo%202%20stroke%20Engine.pdf 2006 Owners Manual: http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2006%20Rev%20Owners%20manual.pdf 2006 Parts: http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2012Support/Parts%20Diagrams/Mototrial/Full%20Size/2006%20Rev%20125-270%202%20stroke.pdf I would start by confirming that it needs main bearings. I had a 2002 that I beat the snot out of, and never replaced main bearings.

Agreed, thanks.

What is the standard pilot jet? It has a pilot jet that runs up from the float bowl parallel to the emulsion tube. It runs OK now, but has a really bad flat spot just off idle. And it seems to get worse as the engine gets hot. I tried raising the needle one notch, but didn't notice any difference.

That's a great photo....what's up with the goggles? I guess it must really move if you need them, ha ha.

Can anyone tell me something about the TY footpegs. In the picture above you can see what is on it. But I noticed some knurled shaft ends under the engine which I'm told are the original peg mounts. Is that right? And if so, where can I get them? I'd like to get as much original equipment as possible. I do have the original metal tank, with nuts and seeds from a previous squatter. Original fenders will be really hard to find, without a doubt.

Two rides and still running great. I'm thinking about riding the season and overhauling it next winter. That way I don't lose any riding time and I can fix anything else I break over the season. CopeMech; what do you use for "High strength pooky"? I considered liquid steel, but getting that off later will certainly be a nightmare!!!!

She rode it today for the first time and did pretty good. We'll get her to the events soon!

Here's the pic's. The throttle slide is about 23mm OD. After cleaning the carb, it ran much better, but still lean, so I know I have to re-jet. It is actually 4,000 feet higher where this came from. I'll move the needle up one clip until I can get the right jets. The rubber "O-ring"n on the main needle tube and main jet screw look a little rough. Can I get them at any shop that sells mikuni's?

Great, thanks. I know it's a mikuni, I'll get the size and picture.

I just got a TY from Canada, about 3,000 feet or 1,000 meters higher than Maine here at sea level. It won't run without the choke at idle. There's green slime in the carb on everything made of brass. I'm wondering if a re-jet is required, I know it needs cleaning at least. Are there recommended jet sizes to start from? Also, someone removed the oil injection, but I see a line to the intake in the front of the carb from the pump, and I was wondering if that should be plugged off. Back in the 80's, I removed the oil injection off a Suzuki TS185, but I drilled holes above the main bearings so fuel mix could get in there and lubricate them. Before I tear this all apart, I was wondering if just removing the pump and lines is good enough. And what oil/fuel would you recommend? I run 80:1 in my Beta, but it's made for that. The pilot jet looks something like "b125" And the main screw cap says "248" stamped on the outside, but I don't see a number on the main jet itself. The slide needle is in the middle hole. Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Thanks, but it's not mine, it's my friend, Lori's. (and the TY80) It's her first bike and she wanted to start with a seat. Hopefully we'll get her on a new bike next year! And save this one for vintage events. I think that will be fun for both of us. One of us might have to ride the 80, but according to 'Lineaway' I guess it's possible.

Thanks Dan (and Chris) it was fun to have a peanut gallery so close by as I Frankensteined my new bike! I rode it today and it goes great! It's like a whole different bike. So, I guess I'll ride it for a while and see if the bubble gum holds up. Of course you know, it will let go right in the middle of an event!

74 TY80

When I was at the Nationals in Vermont (USA) I talked to (Bruce?) LaRaiche, who was riding a Sherco for Ryan Young at the time. (Do the math and figure out the year....I think the same year there was a problem with the cows and a few Europeans came to the US to compete and show us Americans that we have a lot to learn! Is there never going to be another Bernie Schreiber?) Anyhow, he told me that Ryan told him he needed to do the double hop thingy to get up the "Wall of Death". He also said it was very difficult to get the timing just right, start to hop too late and you're too close, hop too soon and you're too far away. He also said that when he did it right, it worked! That's my 2 cents worth. )

I just bought a 2012 Evo and it runs extremely lean. The pilot screw was set at one half turn out and I turned it to one quarter turn out and it's still lean. (I was told this was a fuel screw, but if I turn it out more than a half turn, it stalls.) I cleaned the carb, the bowl was full of crap, but none of the jets or ports seemed plugged. Put it back together and no improvement. Sprayed some brake cleaner under carb area and it stalled instantly. After further inspection, I found two screws that hold the center cases together were loose. I cleaned off the case and can see a gap. It appears the center gasket has blown out or got sucked in. So, as a test, I squeezed a whole tube of RTV/silicone in the canal between the reed block and top of case. I was going to test it today, but ended up with my car in the shop all day because the Toyota dealer can't figure out what's wrong with my radio, another tale of woe. So, I'm jumping ahead I realize, but there is a question here: Has anyone heard of this? Is it common? Do you think I can leave it as is, assumming this works, or is splitting the cases the only way to fix it. Since I just bought this and it has many issues, I'm going to talk with the previous owners, but it was an "AS IS" sale, so I don't have any expectations.