manchester uk

Late to this but I am reasonably sure my Dad (Jim Crossley) introduced Tom to me at Barbon hillclimb. Dad was a founder member of Darwen MCC and rode one of John Anelay's motorcycles in the TT. At the time when I met him I had just got my first Sherpa and there was much discussed re the development that Tom and John had provided Bultaco for a certain SM to then claim as his own. I think the understanding they all had was engineering is engineering but business is business!

Not sure if your brake arm is an OEM part.... looks like a replacement ...? Also the original run was on the outside of the mudguard stay

Yes I took the clutch off as I wanted better access to the primary gear. It's also a 'morse taper' type fit with key so once the nut is off some just need a bit of persuasion, I used a big 3 leg puller. Torque settings I used to re fit were Clutch - 14.5-18 ft.lbs Ignition (LHT) - 87 ft.lbs Flywheel - 58 ft.lbs you may find this useful - most of it is the same as the my hard copy of the parts manual for the 247 (however its been translated to english) http://teflonmike.craywiki.co.uk/0_Lo_100_Library_005_Cota_Book.htm#ENGINE

Hi Arfur - just done the crank seals on mine with the help of TC members its an easy job but with a few difficult obstacles. Mainly you need holders, pullers and perseverance to get to them. Have a look at this thread. 349 Crank Seals G :-)

As this sounds like a sensible mod and easy to install, does anybody have any suggestions for a compatible valve? The most common off the shelf valves are all for small capacity chainsaws (around 100cc) which are the 'one push' types. However I'm not sure they will be up to the job and will not allow you to decompress while riding? Ideas and info welcome :-)

Additional minor tip on this to speed up the process - an electric screwdriver with a socket on effectively turns the engine over for the strobe once the plug is out to test how close your getting!

Mmmmm so unfortunately it was 'designed' that you have to pull it to bits adjust it and assemble it to check it ! Still thanks for the tips on setting it all useful stuff. G :-)

Yes there is a slot but don't think its possible to adjust the back plate through it, just the points. and no worries, I have been looking at switching to electronic but the £240 that Electrex want reminded me that the originals were still working fine!

Hi Stanmet - These have points but there are no alignment holes (just the long slot to adjust the points through)?

Can any one point me to a detailed source of how to adjust this, as it appears to be beyond me or at best trial and error. In that the cam is on the flywheel and the flywheel covers the screws that adjust it the timing. So you can check BTDC once its on but have to take the flywheel off to adjust it then assemble to check it and see how close you have got? Or am I being daft !? G :-)

OK clutch basket needed a big puller as it would not shift - but it was just tight not 'stuck' Primary, sorry to be smug but it came off at my first attempt, but it was very tight; and not sure it would have come off first time had I not had all the various different bits of advice from you lot on Trials Central! Used a 3 leg puller with the tips ground flat to fit in the gap behind, torqued it up till it gave a tuneful twang when tapped, got a electric heat gun on the gear and tapped the puller with a hammer, Nothing happened so I wacked it a bit harder and the gear whistled off across the garage floor with a bang! Many thanks G :-)

Now looking to buy some capacitors as they come in bags of 5 anyone else one to join in? G :-)

Quick question on a 247 clutch removal? Currently in the process of replacing the crank seals flywheel is off so now 'intending' to remove the clutch to keep it out of harms way while I remove the primary gear. As it allegedly can be a bit of a sod to shift. Have flattened the tab washer and removed the nut and indeed the whole clutch is now loose but will not actually come off? Having looked at the parts book I can't see that anything else is holding it, but thought it a good idea to ask you wise people, is anything else holding it on??? I'm now off to shop for an industrial strength puller for the primary gear!! Thanks in anticipation! G :-)

Thanks for that looks like a easy modification :-)

OK thanks for the info on the flywheel nut once I knew I could pull harder and it shifted! Any suggestions on a new condenser?

Greetings all - have been refurbishing a 1978 Montesa Cota 247 thats been laid up in dry storage for 20+ years! Generally it looks in a reasonable condition and most work I have done has to be honest largely unnecessary (checking conditions and cleaning). So added petrol and it fired up 3rd kick! :-) However once warm/hot it refuses to re start. My first though was that the crank seals had hardened and were loosing pressure once hot (however there is no smell or petrol or residual mix inside the ignition case). I'm still intending to change the seals just as a good idea, but I haven't yet taken the clutch side apart. However this brings me to a question and a problem Question - any ideas on the not starting when warm/hot issue (leave it to cool and it starts firs kick) Problem - the nut holding the Motoplat stator in place is solid and will not budge, is it a left hand thread, or are there any ideas around to shifting it? Thanks :-)