pjw123

I've had a few of them. They haven't changed too much over the years, As ever, condition is paramount. Go for the 300, as the 250 is a little underpowered. Lovely to ride between sections too. The 300 Factory has a bit more aggressive power delivery, but this can be smoothed out by using the standard tailpipe. I,ve never had any trouble with any of mine. Check that the seller has changed the oil regularly & knows where all of the filters are. Worth trying a 9 tooth front sprocket if you find it runs on a bit in bottom gear. Middle box needs a bit of a heat shield fitting, as its easy to scorch your riding gear / leg . Run with a highish idle, as they are very occasionally prone to the 4 stroke "cough". Some people report hot start problems, but I've never experienced this personally. Good bikes, well made.

Castleside run a couple of 2 day events in the North East. One for old bikes & one for modern. Think they are called "Baa 2 day",

UK suppled bikes are SS spec. Clearly, they are a touch livelier than 250, but grip is phenomenal, & easy to ride in tricky going. They will pull away from nothing & not stall. Check it still has flywheel weight, slow throttle & consider dropping a tooth at front if you want to slow it down a bit . As ever with a used bike. Condition / maintenance is paramount. I was a 250 fan, & am now a 300 convert.

Not an easy one to answer, as most folks left the motor well alone. You might want to try Bill Pye. The 212 Motor is one of the best twinshock trials motors ever. The whole bike was a game changer I don't recall anyone ever needing to modify the barrel / piston. Power delivery was instant, a forerunner of modern engines & riding styles. It was considered a bit lively back in the day for the old guard, who used to fit a power killing silencer to soften the power. Lots of 240's fitted with 245 motors these days

Ossa brakes defy comment . Villiers services for a reline. Good value & excellent service

Both 240 & 300 Swingarms & frames are completely different. Having said that, the alloy swingarms from later models can be made to fit, but not a job for beginners, as a fair amount of engineering required, i.e dural parts to machine on lathe, & lots of alloy welding required. Got a 240 with a 245 alloy swingarm. Have also seen a 300 with a 245 swingarm fitted. 240 / 300 foot peg lowering / relocation is a good mod. 240 fork angle mod also worth doing, as is beefing up headstock area plating, as its prone to flexing. 300 fork angle is pretty good as standard.

The green seals are SKF. Make sure you remove & replace with proper tools

315/ 4RT needle roller bearings are the same. Needle bearings are HK 1512 , & can be bought in bulk online. (Don't buy cheap & go for quality brands i.e SKF or Koyo ). Outer seals are B106. Can easily be replaced if you have a good vice & a decent full diameter socket set. If you want them to last a while, pack with White Marine grease. (Online & inexpensive)

Hello there, I'm from deepest North Yorkshire, so we are fairly well set up for all trials related stuff. I once had a problem trying to get the special clutch cover o ring seal to sit right & seal properly. I'd had the cover powder coated, which might have been a factor. So I had to try one of those well known Saturday night fixes. (Most of our trials start on a Sunday morning at 10:30, so quite a few folks are busy on Saturday nights)) 1. Thoroughly clean & degrease outer cover O ring groove & case face. 2. I used a small black silicon Instant gasket RTV tube dispenser (Wynns or similar, available from car parts shops) 3. Have a practice go at running a small bead on a test piece. 4, Work out the best start / stop point to ensure optimum continuity, then run a very small bead of sealant into the groove around the entire circumference. (Ensure continuity & it must look "right"). If you have to start using your fingers, you are heading towards a "fail". 5. Allow to cure. You are essentially creating a new, slightly larger compressible O ring out of the RTV (don fit it yet) 6. Once cured, re fit cover, oil her up & away you go.

HRC build quality top drawer & the 315 is generally perceived as a desirable, emerging classic. Loads of folks spend their hard earned sprucing them up. Later models command higher prices, but even the old ones do well if in good order & have been updated. A good one will last forever. As with most off roaders, there are hounds out there, largely due to owners lack of maintenance skills. Many parts shared with the 4RT, & clutch plates same as CR 250. Plenty of fancy front pipes out there. Tailpipes too, but not middle box, which is no biggie. Most bearings off the shelf of your local bearing shop. Clutch cover O ring seal is a PITA. Just use RTV instead Early Dellorto's troublesome, but a nice PWK 28 sorts out that problem, Pistons used to be hard to find, but S3 now doing them. Plastics, & all manner of "dee cal" kits out there. 4RT items can be made to fit. Side stands rubbish, same as 4RT. Air boxes not brilliant either.

Motor is a strong simple unit & easy to overhaul Coked up middle box often overlooked & can hamper performance Can be opened up, cleaned / repacked.(welding job). Similar story with tailpipe. As with most old bikes, carb often worn out. Worth experimenting with something newer. Keihin PWK 28 or OKO. Porting job known to have good results. (but only if carried out by an expert on TY's) Footpegs way too high. Mounting plates can be carefully removed & rewelded lower down. Generator cover & clutch cover are Magnesium & can suffer from corrosion. (UK conditions) Rims corroding/delaminating internally due to constant moisture is a common problem with Japanese rims.

I think engine number is down near the front drive sprocket .

Try Crooks Suzuki. Long time Suzuki Dealers. Nigel Birkett worth a call too

my 2018 300 2t has (had) a vent line. CSP cap fitted & vent line removed plugged. Have ridden in quite few events with no issues.

EVO filler caps / vents do not have a good reputation. Invest in a CSP one . Job done.