t20racerman

Hi I don't have a list, but all of the bearings, including the gearbox needle roller ones, are available from any decent bearing supplier. My local bearing shop had all the ball bearings, and an internet dealership supplied all the needle roller ones very cheaply indeed. A quick search of my email tells me I bought the following bearing: HK2020 SKF Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearing 20x26x20" - £3.99 from Wychbearings.co.uk

Hi all I recently restored a TR77 that I got as a box of bits many years ago. It is now up and running (and road registered too!). When I first rode it, the clutch was SO heavy, and gear changing was very difficult without crashing and clonking them. I thought this was possibly just a clutch problem as it was so heavy. I took the clutch cover off and removed a plate - the outer metal clutch plate - to allow some adjustment, as the springs were already as far out as I could get them. This meant that the outer pressure plate ran on a friction plate (I ensured that it was flat and smooth first), and when I reassembled it all (again with the springs as far out as I could get them) it made the clutch a bit lighter, without any hint of slip. Now, gear changing from 1 to 3 and back is fine - ie smooth and easy. However, going to 4th and 5th and back is still very clonky. I have to pull the clutch in, wait a second or two for the revs to equalise with the box, then change - and still it crunches horribly most of the time. So, is this normal for one of these? Or is there a solution? For background info, I shimmed the crank, gearshafts and selector all to well within tolerance. I'd examined all the bits and found nothing untoward. The clutchplates are new 'Surflex' ones, and the primary chain is new too - as is every single bearing and seal. I've now done about 40 miles since the total rebuild, about half of these since my clutch mods. Could it be clutch problem, even though there is now no hint whatsoever of clutch drag? Thanks for listening Adrian

Hi all - thanks for all of the replies - especially so to dadof2 as that was just the information I was after and I was reluctant to strip the relevant bits in my freezing cold garage without knowing some values. :-) Anyway, to cut a long story short, it was an easy problem to see in the end - the end of my (new) points had snapped off! new ones ordered.... but worried that the same might happen...

Hi all I've been restoring my TR77 for 18 months after it sat in bits for 16 years. On completion it had a huge fat blue spark and started brilliantly many many times whilst I was finishing it off. Got it road registered and went for a test ride. After 12 miles of the engine running smooth as... it suddenly stopped. Problem, no spark at all. So, is there a guide anywhere of what to check, what values to expect etc? I My Clymer manual tells me that it is an electronic ignition model, but the new points and condensor I fitted suggests otherwise! I have a good meter, and understand the ignition system, but have no data or values to check against. Yes I have checked the plug! Any ideas or suggestions welcomed.

I remember looking at this when I rebuilt mine. I remember being puzzled by it and then going 'Oh, that makes sense..' Sadly, I'm struggling to remember exactly what I saw... I seem to remember that the casing bolt hole is wider than normal and allows the air to go along the side of the bolt. That's all I can remember though! Sorry. Can you post a pic to jolt my memory?

OK, thanks for that. I've done a lot of the groundwork, but need a dating form. I'll try the VMCC as suggested. :-)

Hi all My bike is ready to be registered with the DVLA - but where can I get an approved DVLA dating certificate from? There doesn't seem to be anyone or any company that I can find who'll do this. Mines a 1977 TR77. Thanks Adrian

Looks fun. Fired my Ossa up for the first time yesterday. Still not finished, but at least I know it runs. :-)

Thanks for your help guys - very useful Fired the bike up today for the first time and it ran lovely! Job not finished yet, work to do, but it was nice to fire it up. Will post photos when done. :-)

Hi all - yup, me again I just got my petrol tank back from the painters - and its oh SO nice! What a lovely paint job. The paint shop is in Ware, East Herts if you want anything painting. It's a great place :-) Anyway, I have the rubbers for the frame lugs that the front of the tank rests on, but what's at the other end? There is a rounded bracket at the back of the tank that seems to sit snug on the top frame tube, but should there be something under this? Is there supposed to be a rubber or something under the tank? Should finally have it running and fired up this week - for the first time in over 16 years. Yay! :-) Adrian

As always, thanks a lot folks. The bike is SO near being complete, there surely can't be too many more questions from me.... can there??

Hi again Re the Ossa clutch - how far down should the springs go, and what do you use in the holes in the end of the threaded adjuster pegs? Is just wiring them up OK? Also, what is this bit? I'm guessing from the bolt length it fits on the timing cover casing - the top bolt by the clutch arm? If so, why? If not - where and why? This has got me puzzled I must say. Thanks Adrian

I'm not sure about that. I've no experience whatsoever of these bikes. I have heard though that you should drop the forks through the yokes, but until you reminded me, I'd forgotten that. I'd better drop them through a bit! :-)

Thanks. The Suzuki racer is a 1967 Suzuki T20 250cc bike. I've raced it for about 10 years and won a few Championships on it too! You can read about my T20 Suzuki's (both a Road and a Race bike) at www.t20suzuki.com This site is old-school and dated now, but has lots of info if you have one of these bikes. :-) Here's me racing it at Redgate corner, Donington Park:

Hi all Thanks for your help so far with my TR77 restoration. Today I got the top end on, the timing done, a spark, and most of the parts left ready to bolt on (waiting for a pushrod oilseal and the paintwork to come back). I'm sure that I'll be asking for more help, but here is the bike as of tonight. :-)

Hi I can get the tab washer on, but as my nut has a small flange on the inside (see picture above) there is no flat section for the tab washer to be bent down to grip on!

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! This restoration (ie money-pit that is driving me mad) would be even more difficult without the excellent help offered on this forum. :-) Right, off to fit the clutch and tighten the front sprocket nut.... I'll no doubt be back shortly with my next question..... :-( Thanks Adrian

That information is brilliant - thanks so much. Your measurements match mine - just my nut is wider than yours as it is the one for a 10 tooth sprocket. I was concerned as it just all looked 'wrong' but is actually how it should be. Thanks so much Adrian

Hi folks - Adrian again here with my basket case Ossa! So I went to put the clutch mechanism onto the shaft. Behind the clutch are a thrust washer and a spacer according to my Clymer manual. As always with a basket case like this - I don't have these parts, or if I do - I don't recognise them amongst boxes of irrelevant non-Ossa parts, machine tool bits and bobs, random stuff etc... I have a thrust washer that fits on the shaft nicely, but how thick should it be, and what about the outside diameter? I have no idea as to the size of the spacer, but I assume it is wide enough to ensure that the inner sleeve of the needle roller bearing is just proud of the clutch basket - so that the clutch inner pushes against this, not against the basket? I've found a mild steel spacer that seems to do the job, but is mild steel up to the job? It is a little loose on the shaft too. Is this the correct spacer? The part numbers are given as: 111.076 - Thrust washer and 111.077 - Spacer I have a lathe if I need to make something up (and a very good toolmaker friend!) Any info whatsoever gratefully received. Thanks Adrian

Nope, no extra spacer. I will phone InMotion, but I think the nut I have (for the 10 tooth sprocket) would have to be wider so as to enable the smaller diameter to be cleared by the chain. When tightened up its only a couple of mill proud, so its probably OK. If anyone has the measurements though, please do let me know. :-)

Thanks so much for that - I wondered why the nut was that shape! I'll not have the bike finished for at least a week or two, so measurements would be great - thanks. I'll check the sprocket wear as you suggest and see how it all lines up. This has certainly not been an easy restoration.... :-( Adrian

Hi Woody, thanks for answering :-) I know that the new sprocket is the 'correct' one, but the old one was fitted originally, and this left the end of the lock nut about flush with the shaft thread. The new one means the nut only goes partly on and almost touches the outer casing. I stripped the engine when I started restoring it, everything inside seems right, its shimmed up correctly and the original old sprocket fits perfectly! The inner spacer is the correct 11.5mm width AND is pressed all the way home. I'm happy to buy a thin sprocket elsewhere, or machine this one down, but I did wonder if anyone has seen this before? Alternatively, what does the sprocket nut look like? How thick is it supposed to be? Maybe this is what's wrong on mine? With the new sprocket and tab washer fitted, there is about 6.5mm of thread sticking out for the nut to go on. My nut is just above 9 mm thick. (See Picture) Is this the wrong nut for the thicker sprocket? Adrian

Sadly not that good! :-)

Hi all I'm restoring a TR77 that I got as a box of bits. Attached is a photo of my old front sprocket, and the new one supplied by InMotion. The InMotion one is much wider, and if I fit it, the sprocket nut sticks off the end of the shaft and is almost touching the outer casing. The thinner older one fits perfectly. InMotion told me that they only sell the wide one for Ossas and this is the correct one. Is the TR77 different to the MARs? Any ideas why this is wrong for my bike? The spacer behind the sprocket (that the oil seal runs on) is the correct 11.5mm thickness.

Hi all I'm restoring a TR77 that I was given as a box of bits (and so have no knowledge of set up...). My Clymer manual tells me that the Ossa has electronic ignition, although the points and condensor set-up on my bike suggest otherwise! I've fitted new points and condensor and now need to set the points gap and timing. The back plate has a clear timing mark that lines up with the crankcasings, so I set it at this position. I then set the points gap to 15 thou, and this opened the points at around 2.2mm BTDC. I searched the internet and found suggestions of anywhere between 2 and 3.5mm BTDC, and a points gap of 40 thou seemed a common theme. So, what works best, or what is a good starting point for both the points gap and the BTDC setting? Also, I have no idea which wire goes where! The Alternator/timing coils unit behind the flywheel has 4 wires coming out - Black, Green, Yellow, and a pale pink colour. Any info on which one does what would be welcome. I'm hoping to run a brake light and horn, without a battery - if anyone has done this, your advice welcome. :-) Thanks for your help Adrian